Full sun in a zip lock bag? That will cook the seeds. Lots to read HERE.

tj

Hi everyone.

Littlemidgetmc – I have no experience of growing
bromeliad seeds in the manner you describe, but I can share with you an easy
and inexpensive method I use successfully for all bromeliad seed I grow except
Tillandsias.

I plant my seed on a bed of “Coco-Peat” (Seed raising
quality) which is added to normal rectangular plastic take-away containers.

These are filled to about one third of their depth, and as there are no drainage holes in the bottom, once the lid is replaced, the whole growing area within is like a miniature glass house with a re-cycled watering system.

The Coco-Peat is initially soaked in water and the excess
is squeezed out before it is placed in the container. Once the container is about
one third full, it is lightly firmed down with a flat object such as a small
wooden block. It is then microwaved on
high for 5 minutes to kill any harmful fungus or weed seeds.

Once cooled, the seed can be sown on top of the coco-peat. (DO NOT COVER THE SEED). The seeds are then given a light spray with water from a
hand held sprayer to settle them onto the Coco-Peat before the lid is replaced
and the container moved to its growing location.

Probably the most important part of the whole process is
to write the name of the seed and the sowing date on the container. This is a
good routine to get into with all seed; that way if you are growing more than
one different batch you won’t get them mixed up.

These seeds need no further attention as there is
sufficient moisture in the container so that watering isn’t required. Water
will gather as condensation on the underside of the lid during the cooler night
and run down the sides of the container and into the Coco Peat during the
warmth of the day providing a continuing re-cycling of the water.

The idea is to keep the moisture, temperature and light
as near to constant as possible so I locate these containers on a wire mesh
shelf in a back (closed in) porch of our house facing the north which is the
direction where the best light comes from, (It would be a different aspect in
your country). They get no full sun but the light is diffused sufficiently to
provide a similar degree of light to a shade house with a 75% beige coloured shade
cloth covering.

Once you get the moisture content of the Coco-Peat
correct they can go without watering for up to 12 months as in the case of the
seedlings below.

If however you don’t see any condensation on the
underside of the lid you can give them a light spray with water until the water
balance is correct.

Once seedlings reach the underside of the lid, I like to
remove the lid, cut some drainage holes in the containers and then acclimatise
them in part of my shade house. They seem to get a “growth spurt” when this is
done and start to grow much faster

Because they are still small and with limited roots, rather
than the garden hose I water them gently over-head with a home-made watering
bottle. This is made from a plastic milk bottle with small holes drilled in the
top and is ideal for applying water gently so as not to dislodge the small seedlings.

Once
they outgrow the plastic container, they are moved into their own small pots.

As they continue to grow larger they are progressively moved
into larger pots until they are finally mature.

I hope this has been of some help to you.

All the best, Nev.

Kinda like Country Cured hams, right Nev?

Yes Gonz, but a pity I can't eat them though.