Also they have been fed nothing, just figured reading through past post i would mention.

what kind NPK ratio would you suggest?

I just tried different tomato fertilizers that had calcium until I got a mix that worked for me. I use jobe fertilizer spikes for tomatoes for their high phosphorous.

Bump. any other suggestion/info/opinion?

NPK ratios can be important, but you first have to decide if other factors are important...

Do you prefer organic, synthetic, something in between? Are they going into the ground, or a container? Do you know the nutrient profile for the plant site?

In general, annual flowering/fruiting plants can use more N when they are very young, but too much N, especially if it's available when they want to start flowering can be problematic. The type of fertilizer can make a huge difference in whether it is all available at one time, or if it is slowly released.

I guess what I'm saying is... to get the feedback you want, try to come up with an outline for a plan, and use your questions as shining a flashlight. If you don't know about organics or synthetics, aim your questions at them, then choose a path. Don't know about soluble ferts, vs. slow release... aim your question.

Focus on what will work for you in your circumstance, but realize that you will abandon some choices later.

Mostly, plants just want to grow. The trick is learning what you can do to help them as you do your best to get out of the way.

so im going with a 24-8-16 water soluble at half strength. any advice on how much i should use on 4-5 week old plants? cup half cup? less? the instructions just say " soak soil " but i feel that is vague, cause im trying to avoid over watering like last time

Apply enough to constitute a regular watering, but mix it up at 1/4 to 1/2 the strength on the instructions. You can always fertilize again, but reversing the damage done by overfertilizing is much harder.

Here is what I would do if I were headed your way, though it is definitely not my way of doing things. The best I can come up with for MG at 4-5 weeks:

One Level TEAspoon of MG in a gallon of tap water that has not gone through a water softener, the harder the better. Then do (A) or (B):

(A) From that gallon, use a measuring cup to separate out 2 1/2 cups (20 ounces). Use that straight for all irrigations until it is finished, do not discard what leaches out of the bottom, recycle it. You don't want to over fertilize, that's a bad thing to do. You will grow seedlings!

(B) For extra potency, get a single clean large eggshell. Put it in a toaster oven till it is completely parched, then grind it into a fine powder in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. Put one to two TEAspoons of supermarket white vinegar in the pulverized shell powder and let sit over night. Then, make the same MG addition in the gallon as in (A), but add the eggshell mush to the MG gallon and allow to mix well, and sit at least an hour. Then take your 2 1/2 cups and use like in (A) :-) You will grow happier seedlings :-)

PC

Can't help but wonder what kind of potting mix you are using as that could be the source of your problems. Somewhat surprised no one has asked about this yet.

Rodney

P.S. Haven't seen you in a while, PC. Welcome back.

@theforgottenone1013 before i had transplanted them they were in Miracle grow Seed starter. Now its miracle grow potting mix.

you're most likely over watering if you have mold/fungus. if you're using miracle grow potting mix then there is no need to fertilize as it probably already has some slow release granular in it, fertilize a week after transplanting outdoors.

@stevie that being said, seeing the mold/fungus should i scrap those plants and start over? i did get most of the old dirt off.

the stuff that grows on soil is usually harmless to the plants as long as it does not get out of control and become a breeding ground for insects. cut back on the watering and let the soil try out a bit before watering, less is more.

Hi Rodney, Thank you. Just an explanation to a few people, my tomato jungle was too much for the city and they cited me for having 31 fifteen foot vines in my front yard (not allowed to have a garden that big), and gave me 15 days to make plants and hardware disappear since growing food in the front yard was taboo here. In disassembling it I was injured from a 10' fall,I got depressed and disconnected from tomatoes. A nice woman asked for advice this season so grew her some seedlings sowed three months ago and set her up with six plants. Then there was the trashing of the 20 extras grown that didn't make the cut. She cried so I put them in makeshift pots and I expected to let waste away to dry up, but somehow I took care of them and now I'm stuck with nineteen 4-5 foot plants of varieties I would only want a total of five plants :-) And today I got my first ripe tomato and the yellow tomato snow covering the plants is such a beautiful sight I remember the forum and all the kind friends here, I missed and felt bad about being absent, but a lot of crap happened so I'm sorry. Sorry MO, I've need meaning to say hello and thank you for the opportunity. Check the weather and harden/plant out immediately if no frost in the forecast. Otherwise your plants probably won't do much better, though there is some chance relating to your water quality, soil moisture content and lighting and an ongoing obvious calcium - magnesium imbalance and/or deficiency. And when you tell people you haven't fed your plants anything, that means you used a zero nutrient medium for growing ...

PC

the yellowing leafs, should i prune them or wait till the plant is more mature?

Why did you think the roots had mold?

Did you take pictures.? If so, please post them.

New root hairs can appear as if it's mold to the inexperienced eye. Wonder if that's what you saw.

sorry no i didn't take picture. I thought it was mold because of how almost looked painted onto the dirt ball. Also it smelt mildewy/mold