Not sure what kind of compost you're been using, but manure is high in phosphorus. Sounds like you don't need much of anything, though nitrogen is always handy. Plain old lawn fertilizer is high in nitrogen, with little of anything else. Go easy on it, as over fertilizing with nitrogen is not in the best interest of maximizing fruit production. I suspect you were advised to add lime because phosphorus becomes much more available to plants in acid soil. So de-acidification is, in a fashion, reducing the phosphorus. Takes a long time for phosphorus to go away.

Maybe this'll work? https://www.lowes.com/pd/40-lb-Lawn-Fertilizer-10-0-10/3621116

or https://www.groworganic.com/lawn-restore-fertilizer-ringer-10-2-6-25-lb.html though its not exactly 10-0-10

Dawson

10-0-10 is sold here by Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot and Menards plus all the farm supply stores. What similar suppliers do you have in your area?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Green-Charm-10-0-10-Phosphorus-Free-Fertilizer-33-lb/16877388

Dave

Sometimes stores sell 10-10-10, sometimes they have 12-12-12, or 13-13-13 instead. The only difference would be in the recommended application amount per 100 sq. ft.. Usually the bags are in the 40-50 pound range though. If you just want to add nitrogen since it seems your P and K are adequate to high you can use Urea (46-0-0) but take it easy on the amount applied as it can burn plants easily.

I'll reiterate, and echo LoneJack. If your potassium is fine, why are you worried about potassium in fertilizer? You don't want phosphorus, and you don't need potassium. So that leaves nitrogen, which you may or may not want to add. Don't overthink this. Nitrogen is ALWAYS handy to have extra. That's why it was recommended. Sounds like a some-none-who_cares NPK is what you need.

Thank you garden soil experts for your fast response. Here are the results of my soil test

CROP TO BE GROWN Vegetables

SOIL TEXTURE Sandy Loam

ORGANIC MATTER Medium High

pH 5.8

NITRATE NITROGEN Low (3 ppm)

AMMONIUM NITROGEN Low (12 ppm)

PHOSPHORUS Medium
High (50 ppm)

POTASSIUM Very
High (>250 ppm)

CALCIUM Very High (>1600 ppm)

MAGNESIUM Very High (>125 ppm)

TREATMENTS

Limestone

pH ADJUSTMENT 75 lbs.

10-0-10, Preplant

FERTILIZER GRADE 10-10-10, July

FERTILIZER AMOUNT 25 lbs, Preplant

10 lbs, July

10-0-10 fertilizer is suggested
when phosphorus levels are high. This fertilizer may be difficult to find.
Similar fertilizers may be substituted.

Sorry, I should have included the above results in first post. If you see anything out-of-line that I did not mention, please let me know. Again, I have no idea on soil composition and how to obtain a perfect mixture. Past seasons, I used just compost soil from our compost bin and mixed in Chickety Doo Doo. Epsom salt for tomato plants. Thank you again for all of your help and information. Happy Gardening 2017

I'll just pitch in one small thing... stop adding the Epsom salts. Those results show it is completely unnecessary... even detrimental.

Agree - no more epsom salts. They have a very limited role in gardening and should only be used when plants display magnesium deficiency. Your soil sure doesn't need them. All you need pre-planting IMO is some form of nitrogen and then a low dose of the 10-10-10 (or better the 10-0-10 if you can find it) in mid-July. The lime won't help all that much this year but will really have a positive effect for next season.

Dave

Also, clearly the lime is to deacidify a little. Not that essential, with pH of 5.8. Of course, lime will boost the Ca and Mg even higher, but excesses of those are OK, especially if P and K are abundant. Don't worry too much about the nitrogen measurement. Nitrogen fluctuates wildly in soil, and if you've been applying compost regularly, the soil will equilibrate with a decent amount.

Your soil analysis looks to me like your recipe for success is not to do much.

Thank you so very much for taking your time to give me all the great information. ..... Best Wishes