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mike_russell63

Help - I have a brown thumb

9 years ago

New to the site, and relatively new to lawn care. I've been a homeowner for 9 years, but the last house was a starter home. Now that we have moved into our new construction home, I want to make sure I'm maintaining my lawn properly.


Details: I live in southern KY. The site was a new construction, so last summer (2016), the lot was seeded and strawed in the rear, sodded in the front. I was able to secure the type of grass used in the seeding (31W Fescue, Premium Long Seed). Up until last week, I hadn't done anything but mow when needed. Then last Friday, I laid down a 29/0/3 Scotts Turf Builder fertilizer. It was a dry day, so I watered sections, then fertilized behind it. It finally rained 2 days later.


Other details: There are patches throughout the lawn where grass didn't grow. In these spots lies mostly straw. Do I need to rake this straw up and dispose of it? Is it too late to spot seed? I believe the Turf Builder does have a weed prevention component...does that mean I can't seed now?


I can post photos/videos upon request if that would better help any advice. Thanks!

Comments (6)

  • 9 years ago

    Pictures, yes. The best pictures of gardens are taken on cloudy days or in the shade. Videos of grass growing, not so much.

    Your grass is a relatively primitive form of fescue turf. Back before fescues were hybridized in the mid 20th century, Kentucky 31 (your grass) was the lawn to have. But since then it has been improved to be more manageable with nicer blades and color.

    You are about 45 days early for spring fertilizer. I realize they have been advertising for weeks now, but waiting has benefits. You might see the color go a little more yellow in late May. If you see that, then fertilize again with just a fertilizer - no weed control. Generally weed n feed products are not what all they're cracked up to be. If the fertilizer you applied was a weed n feed and you applied on a dry day without watering FIRST, then you wasted the herbicide. From what you said I'm not sure whether the grass was still wet or not when the product went down. Weed n feed products are different in that they go down onto wet grass. Regular fertilizer goes down on dry grass and gets watered in BEFORE the next day. Dew on dry fertilizer is the problem if you don't water it in the night before. There might be a slightly different Turf Builder that has a crabgrass preemergent in it. If that is the case, then putting it down on dry grass is correct. And yes if you used this one then you should delay seeding. In fact, if you can stand it try to delay until September. Seeding now or in a few weeks will result in a crabgrass lawn by July. Why? Because crabgrass seed is sitting there waiting for water to sprout. It sprouts faster than other grasses and grows more aggressively.

    Lawn maintenance comes down to three main elements. Those are, in order of importance, watering, mowing, and fertilizing. If you don't get the watering right then you will make mistakes on the other two.

    Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

    Mowing: Mulch mow your lawn at the mower's highest setting every week during the growing season.

    Fertilizer: Fertilize first on Memorial Day. Next on Labor Day. And last around Thanksgiving after the grass has stopped growing but before it goes completely dormant.

  • 9 years ago
    Here's some photos. If you're looking at my shed from the house, the lot slightly tilts to the left and up in the rear. Relatively flat in the middle, so tends to stay wet after rains.
  • 9 years ago

    Now that you've seen photos, what would be my next steps to get me on the right track? Do I do something about all the straw? Do I re-fertlilize come Memorial Day? Do I seed now, or wait until fall? I'm horrible with this stuff, but if someone were to just give me a set of instructions, I can attempt. Thanks!

  • 9 years ago

    If you applied pre-emergent, you can't seed now.

    Looking at the yard, you may want to renovate. That means killing everything and starting over. Do you have the ability to water the entire area for 15 minutes 3 times a day for 2-3 weeks?

  • 9 years ago

    Watering the entire area for 15 minutes 3 times a day would take forever, seeing as how my sprinkler only touches a small fraction of the yard at a time. We HAVE been getting some rain lately though,

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm not suggesting you do that right now, I was thinking in anticipation of renovation, you would need to be able to keep the seed moist. I guess you could wait until late September and time it before a rain.

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