Loger , having your depth rakes properly set is vital to producing a efficient cut . All must be equal to allow each cutter to perform in sequence . I check this every second filing . More often if I hit something , dirt , rock or other abrasive form of debris .

As to larger saws being harder on chains , yes due to higher rate of cut . They can produce more heat from friction which will dull cutters at a faster rate . Keeping your cutters sharp and into the wood equally is imperative to clean effortless during .

Thanks! On my scale
of cutting, I have never had this issue with my 16” saws. Not only do I have the gauge and know the
process since the 70s I have never seen a need.
We have files and we were taught to use them. But! Both of us spoiled ourselves in 1984 by
purchasing electric Dermal type sharpeners.

I started making and adjusting my chains about 84 for economical
reasons. It was not unusual to ruin a
chain and bar cutting wood that was cleared and pushed to cause dirt to be in
the bark. If I got 2-3 cords out of a chain
and bar I felt I broke even. I did minimal
cutting in the fields and would let it Rain on the wood 2-3 weeks before cutting
to 16” at home.

Then I struck oil “In Texas”! When a close Rancher had many trees on his
Small Horse Ranch I was free to cut all the standing dead oaks or Dangerous
oaks to his horses I needed or wants.
The property was loaded due to not draining well and causing root rot. He kept his horses inside during storms
because the wind could take some down.
Some were not as alive as they looked, which was not a fun lesson.

I had learned to purchase good used chains, New chain stock
and make up my own chains. Plus Purchase only Laser tip bas vs bearings. On one Flea Market Purchase I found a bargain
of new stock to make 6 chains, 6 chains that adjusted to my saw for 2.00 “Total”. My local Chain Vender/Friend had a Closing Sale.
I wanted to purchase 6-8 links to make
or adjust chains to my size chains. For
the sale price of the 6-8 links, he passed me the entire sorted case for that
price. I have been teaching the process
to friends since because I will never use all the Links.

Too much to spell check or believe. LOL!

My 3 cord rack is full counting Mesquite, Pecan and Oak on
top to share as BBQ Wood. After a friend
shared half of his newer looking wood
hall of Post Oak. Since, I told him where Trimmers would load him to move the wood. They could handle quarters that I flipped onto
the splitter and split into 2-3 logs.
The close Calls will keep coming for the wood and visits. Such as I got
a call yesterday a friend had a 8-10” Dia Red Oak limb down I could get when
passing. I pass sooner when I am low on
wood.

My next challenge
before next winter is to get a helper sweep my firebox and chimney’s soot. It has always worked well to sweep the 6’ of
14”ID Dia pipe from the roof with the box closed. Plus sweep the Box 1st with a box
fan on top of the pipe pulling up.
Experimenting, I have just burned a hot fire with a Chimney Sweep Log in
the fire. I have not ever noticed much
difference of the soot being affected.

From the small amount of wood you cut , as illustrated in your picture ,you most likely have not worn a chain to the point of the depth rakes pulling your cutters out of the wood . When you cut 15 - 20 cords of Canadian Maple or Ironwood then you would understand better that the size of saw is not so much a factor but rather the amount of usage , wood density and cleanness of the logs . I use Oregon and Carisle Premium chain , over 40 yrs . Although the Best Chain on the Market I still have to freshen up the depth rakes occasionally due to normal wear and tear !