Insulation, waterproofing and dampproofing are all different things. In my neck of the woods, we like to keep the moisture out of the building altogether, I.e. keeping the outside well drained from the beginning. This sounds to me like something that I would not spend any money on until I had spoken to an architect or contractor to determine what is really going on. Use the pro finder to find somebody local to you.

sguest35,

In what location is this home/basement? Having this information is critical in determining what type of waterproofing you will need.

Steve

Massachusetts, north shore. on a 1/4 acre lot. not sure what you're asking.

Here is right on the money--confer with a contractor and an architect that have done work in your area. Likely, with cinder blocks (mortar and blocks are porous with age) you are looking at a recurring issue with seasonal moisture. I would suggest that your basement may require a 2 tiered system. Part one would be to excavate around the perimeter of the home, clean and provide a sealant to the block, with drainage mats laid against the sealed block, to the bottom of the existing footing. Then you would install perf. drain tile in a washed gravel base that can daylight or tie into your local storm sewer system, then backfill. Part two may require that you place a sump pump in your basement, tied into an existing drain, so that in a 100 yr. storm, you have a backup. Also, if your downspouts and perimeter grade don't drain away from your home, that will need to be dealt with, as well. These changes done and in place, to the extent that a local professional tells you they are necessary, will protect any future investment in terms of finishing out your basement.

As an ex landscape laborer I agree with DMH. That's exactly what we did. You dig around the structure to the foundation. You treat all of the masonry including bricks, blocks and/or concrete. Once you get all of those areas clean as possible, you can use rubber cement (comes in cans like paint) and coat that good! You might even go with exterior oil based Kilz for good measure. To apply, you treat it just like paint, cut in and roll out. Once you are satisfied, you've created a good barrier against moisture, take it another step and affix the thickest, most durable plastic you can find. (I was also a brick laborer). this is how layers prep the walls before they added brick. One final preventative measure you can also do is when you fill in those exposed holes you've made, build the dirt mount with an incline away from the house. Take it up 3 or 4 or even 5 or more inches high going outward! Have you some economical planters built completely around. Although I'm a pro painter, my experience in other fields has taught me this. The digging is not so hard by hand if you pay teenagers to do it. Recalling back, it should take no more than a few days. And then you'll have to pay to have the dirt put back. I hope at least some of this helps. The drain idea is also a great way to keep water at bay for planters.

Old post 2013