That size tree should have been transplanted from the small beginner container that it is in a long time ago. I'm sure the root system is quite packed and has started circling long ago. The foliage and root system of a citrus tree are a unit. This tree's balance is way out of bounds. Have you ever examined the root system?

Citrus trees push out new growth in flushes every so often. You will have nothing and then all of a sudden lots of growth.

I noticed that you have mulch on the top of the soil. You never want to use any kind of mulch on citrus. Citrus tree's don't like their roots wet for prolonged periods of time as they are very susceptible to root root which could be the problem with your tree. I had a citrus tree with the same symptoms not to long ago where most the leaves were turning yellow and dropping off. If it is root rot, the earlier you catch it the better, or easier it is to cure. I would recommend that you take the root ball out of the container and examine the root system. If you see black root tips (where it looks like the anchor root has completely rotted off except for the tip which is black) or darkened feeder roots that have detached from the root system that's an indicator that it is root rot.

If this is the case you'll have to treat it. Clean off all of the rotting roots, clip off all of the blackened root tips and wash off any soil from the roots with garden hose. Next, make a solution of 20% chlorine bleach and 80% water put it in a bucket deep enough to to contain the entire root ball for 15-20 minutes. Rinse off the root system with water and replant in different soil. It's very important that you do not use the same soil because root rot is a type of fungus and can persist in the soil for long periods of time and simply re-infect your roots if you put it in the same soil. Chances are it isn't root rot but if it is, I hope this guide helps.

I agree with all, repot it as soon as possible.

Thanks for the tips, everyone. I just replanted my citus into 5-1-1 mix in a larger pot. Hope that makes it happier! The roots did not appear to have rot, but they def needed more breathing room. The nasty potting mix my lemon tree had been living in had broken down, resulting in muck near the bottom and sides and a near bone dry root ball in the center. Yuck!

Quick questions:

I wasn't able to get dolomotic lime in time to mix into my 5-1-1, can I just sprinkle it on top later?

How much more frequently should I expect to water my citus now? The old potting soil was about every two weeks, but I understand 5-1-1 will not retain moisture as long

You should not sprinkle the lime on top because you would then have a zone of concentrated lime on top. You could try mixing 1/3 of it with water and apply it the next time the tree needs water. Repeat twice more. I think that will work but am not sure. It is better than no lime and it should not harm the tree.

Frequency of watering with 5-1-1 depends on a lot of things like pot size, amount of rain, frequency of rain, plant size, temperature, humidity, wind, etc. I water about every 10 days.

The first time I made 5-1-1, I did not add lime. I asked the same question and ended up putting it on the top, but carefully stirring it into the top layers of mix. I was told this was ok here. I don't think my trees have suffered, but I also don't remember which ones I did this to...;-)

Can anyone explain when you would choose between ag lime, dolomitic lime or gypsum? Particularly with regard to citrus - don't they like acidic? So would you go for the most pH neutral form of lime?

Peat moss is acidic. Dolomitic lime, being alkaline, is added to the 5-1-1 mix to raise the pH to make it less acidic, i.e, more neutral.

So why do some/many container citrus growers then acidify their watering water with vinegar?

They should acidify it only if their water is alkaline.

Just curious as most articles I've read recommend slightly acidic soil for citrus, usually in the 5.5-6.5 range, and say that 7.0 (neutral) is not ideal. Not that I know what the pH of the 511 is without lime - does the peat and the bark push it really low ie. below this range?

I seem to recall (don't quote me on this) that the pH is about 5, but am not sure. I do know that many on this forum, me included, use 5-1-1 and are happy with it.

Yes I know, and I'm all for it - I have a couple of houseplants in it already myself - my question was just about the lime component with regard to growing citrus in particular. I find if I understand the "whys" then I make better decisions down the track :)

I understand. I am like you in that regard.

So I replanted my lemon tree into a bigger container with 5-1-1 mix but I'm still losing leaves at an alarming rate (5+ leaves/day...with new ones yellowing). The root ball did not look restricted or like it was suffering from root rot, but I suspect the old soil was breaking down.

Is there anything I can do to turn this around? At this rate, my poor lemon. Will have no leaves left by August

My suicidal little lemon

My citrus in containers do the same thing as yours. Lime and lemon in whiskey barrels. Since they have been doing this for 30-35 years, I think it is normal.

It is suffering from transplant shock; it should recover.

Give it time. Keep it in partial shade for two weeks before putting it out into full sun. No fertilizer until you see new growth.

Thank you, Vladimir - you just answered one of my questions :)

I have some trees suffering from drying out, losing almost all of their leaves. It will get worse before it gets better, but first it will sit there dropping a lot/all of its leaves then sit doing nothing for a while, after what seems like an eternity you will see some new growth.

Sammers how are your tree? Still recovering? Not as bad as you thought or worse?

Susanne, the jury is still out. Half have stopped dropping leaves and the other half are still doing it. No new growth as of yet. The Meyer has two leaves left and the Finger Lime looks toast, The Calamondin and both the Bearss and Key limes are extremely wilted still. The others are somewhere between leaf loss and wilted. I know its going to take time to recover but I wish they would hurry up.

And your back? Hopefully better?

It is, I still cant lift or move anything but I can bend a bit easier and most importantly use the hose/watering can to water my plants.

I wish you quick recovery, Sammers. I had the exact same problem after playing basketball with my kids. Lol, I had to go to ER, they gave me strong painkillers, so I could move around. Don't lift heavy things.

Graham, this is for you)

Why are you growing that tree inside this time of the year?

Citrus by nature require more than 6 hours of direct sunlight all year, and more so in spring and summer when most active.

If you choose to keep it indoors like that, it will become very weak trying to keep the roots alive, which is why they look ok, as they shed the top growth, even branches to keep themselves from collapsing. The roots will fight to stay alive while the whole top suffers until it gets enough sunlight to maximize good growth both for healthy root function and vegetative growth,

I am afraid it will not make it unless you give it natural sunlight from here until through the fall, or at the very least added artificial lights if you are forced to keep it inside..Let us know what you think please)))

I would not feed it if it were mine until growth resumed for fear of killing the roots with the salts from the fertilizer if the roots decide to stop functioning..

A bigger pot and the right soil is a great choice, but without the right amount of good light, it won't do very well.

Mike

Thanks Mike....I live in a NYC apartment so putting it outside isn't an option for me. The window it's in faces SE and gets a lot of natural light a day (around 12 hours a day this time of year)...I also have a grow light that gives it an extra hour or two per day. It's not ideal, but it's the best I can do in Manhattan....which isn't exactly citrus friendly.

As anticipated, my lemon tree is down to just a handful of leaves now. There's still about 4 little lemons growing, and I noticed 2-3 flower buds....should I pull them all off so the tree can focus on trying to push out new leaves....? I hate to kill the only signs of healthy life left in my poor little tree

I'm wondering if the water drains freely from your pot? I can see a drip plate underneath and if there are no hole on the side of the pot, the water is not going anywhere but stays in the lower part of the pot. This tree might drown very slowly. Although there might be no root rot visible, I do not see a healthy root growth either, no white tips at the root ends, just roots that have grown some time ago. The reason could be cold feet? (literally) Do you have your AC running? What temperature? Not sure what kind of AC but is the tree staying near a vent?

Just wanted to add, It will take some time for the tree to recover. First it needs to regrow som roots and then it will get new leaves. The fruit will probably fall off too. Be careful with water. A plant without assimilating leaves does not need much water.

Hi Susanne,

water drains freely through the pot (lots of holes in bottom) and into the drip plate. The tree is nowhere near my AC or any vents...in fact it's in one of the warmer corners of my apartment.

I will reduce my watering to every two weeks (or less). Any idea on how long it will take to see new leaf growth? I've heard Meyers lemon like to put out new growth in autumn, so I'm hoping if I hold out another 3-5 months it'll start recovering

Graham,

That really stinks that you can't put it outside..I can imagine you wanting to for sure. You are trying your best. I would say you are getting the reverse effect of a lack of DIRECT sunlight. Is the sun way above the window at this angle giving that tree just sunlight, not direct sun?

If anything, if that tree can hang on another month or two, which it just might as long as you watch your watering habits and that mix is porous, it will probably actively start growing once the sun dips below the top of your window and start shining directly in it as the sun angle lowers... That is exactly what use to happen to my sisters when she had to keep hers inside all summer.

Please, keep us update, As long as the roots are ok, it might have a chance. I just hope the roots will survive long enough without leaves to help them along. Keeping my fingers crossed for ya.

I'm lucky enough to be on a high floor with a tall window...so I get about 4-6 hours of really direct sunlight, then another 4-6 of intense indirect sunlight. I coated my window interior in Mylar to try and maximize my reflected light, and use a grow light for an extra 1-2 hours after the sun goes down.

Graham, how's the tree now? Been thinking about it lately....

My Meyer lemon has had a rough month. As expected, it's nearly completely defoliated. The few leaves hanging on are turning yellow, so they're on suicide watch.

On the plus side, there's no twig dieback, and the tree has put out three or four flower buds. No sign of any leaf growth, but I'm hoping that will come soon.

Depressing pic :-\

I would elevate the pot so it does not stand in direct contact with the drip bowl. This is the only way to make sure there is no water staying in the lower part of the pot.

It's hard to see in that pic but the pot is elevated on a circular piece of styrofoam in the drip bowl. Even when freshly watered, the pot is above any standing water

Hope it comes back and fruits for you.