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Is there anything wrong with this blueberry?

Comments (9)

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi clorox (i'm loving your bleach bottle avatar, it's hilarious).

    From the image you shown. I'm seeing signs of iron chlorosis on the younger leaves. What is your soil ph level? Blueberry thrives best in soil with ph level of 4.5 to 5.5 - where they have access to all the nurtients in the soil. They are very easy to grow but they are a nightmare to deal with if the soil ph isn't right.

    Also. Have you been fertilizing the plant? Because i'm seeing signs of fertilizer burn on some of the leaves. What variety is it?

  • 9 years ago

    I got at clearance in Walmart for 4 dollars. It has that burned leaf edges when I got it. The variety is called blue ambrosia my ph is 7-7.5 but I added a lot of pest moss like 1/2 of the planting hole.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It's going to be a long post! Speaking from personal experience. Adding peatmoss to the planting hole isn't enough for your blueberry plant to thrive in the long-term. The blueberry roots will not spread or grow beyond the planting hold area. Also, the peatmoss will become less acidic over time as your surrounding soil ph is just too high.

    My garden soil has a ph level of around 6-ish and 5 of my Sunshine blues were struggling to grow in it. The Sunshine blue variety is the only cultivar that can tolerate and grow in soil with a higher ph level of up to 6. When I first planted them in the garden bed, i got plenty of new leaves and vegetative grow but after 3 months, they stopped growing and most of the younger leaves were showing symptoms of iron chlorosis like the ones in your picture.while 2 of my potted blueberry plants (in acid potting mix) grew like weed, almost 3 times the size compared to the Sunshine Blues.

    By late April (Autumn time in Australia), the Sunshine Blues weren't looking too good, the new leaves were yellow and quite thin looking. So I bit the bullet and dug them up from the garden bed. Lo and behold, the blueberry roots did not spread beyond the acid potting mix that I added to the soil at planting time. The roots were confined to the small area of the potting mix and did not integrate itself to the surrounding soil. Also, the roots of 2 of my Sunshine Blues were being eaten by curl beetle grubs, half of the rootball was gone.

    I potted all the Sunshine Blues in acid potting mix and they have been doing really well ever since. A few weeks after potting them, they began producing a lot of flowerbuds and started flowering very heavily by late May to early June (Winter time). I pulled off all the flowers and flowerbuds and they produced a second crop of flowerbuds again by early July. I pulled them all off again and now I'm seeing a lot of new vegetative growth this past 2 weeks. The new baby leaves are green, broad and healthy looking (growing in place of the taken off flowerbuds and flowers). It's mid winter in Melbourne and the younger leaves have pinkish red tip, which is normal in cold temperature.

    Blueberries have shallow roots and so they do well in containers. I highly recommend that you grow your blueberry in a pot since your soil ph level is just too high for them to thrive in. They will die... slowly if you leave them in there. A ph level of 7-7.5 is just too much. In addition, it's not worth the effort, cost and time to try amending your soil with sulfur to lower the soil ph. I tried to amend my garden soil with elemental sulfur (both granule and soluble types) and after 3 months, my soil ph is still lingerinh between 5.8 to 6-ish.

    If you are able to find some acid potting mix in your area, your blueberry plant will thank you for it and will reward you with juicy berries by this time next year. I'm using stored bought acid potting mix for Azelea and Camellia.

  • 9 years ago

    With the pH being that high, it is very difficult to get the pH to the proper level in the ground. Even when you do the pH will try to go back to the original pH.

    If you decide to put the blueberry into a container, use the biggest container you can get, 15 to 20 gallons being best. You can just by the 5 gallon buckets at Lowes and cut 4 or 5 one inch holes at the bottom, along the sides of the container. If you put the holes in the bottom trees can invade the pot if it is not moved very often.

    I have used miracle gro potting MIX along with pine tree bark and that has worked well. Do not use anything that has soil in the name such as potting soil. Make sure that lime has not been added to the mix. I tested Miracle gro potting mix once and the pH is about 5.5. If spinach will not grow in the mix, the pH is probably about right for blueberries. Make sure and fertilize often with a blend that is for acid loving plants. Only use about 1/2 teaspoon per gallon about once a week in the summer.

    They do well in containers as long as you do not over water in the winter and to not let them dry out in the summer. Best to use rainwater but you can use tap water if the bicarbonates are not too high or you can adjust with battery acid or vinegar.

  • 9 years ago

    Should i do it now it's cloudy and there is wind but it's 97 degrees and the rest of the week looks like low 100s to mid 90s and sunny and how do I make my own acidic potting mix because it isn't available here and I only got regular potting mix and peat moss?

  • 9 years ago

    The regular miracle gro potting mix is acidic, at 5.5 pH. If you transplant it now, you will need to cut the plant back by 50% and put the containerized plant in the shade for at least a week.

    The bush is looking ok from the picture. It might be better to wait until cooler weather. However, to do that you might need to apply fertilizer on the foliage. When I have had other plants show symptoms of lack of iron I would add iron to the foliage as a temporary fix.

    I have had poor results in transplanting any plants this time of year. And if the roots of the blueberry dries out for even a few minutes, it can kill the plant.

  • 9 years ago

    Yea I'll wait till fall but I have "Sta-green tree and shrub mix with fertilizer" and peatmoss.


  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, I agre with gary. Wait until the weather is cooler - in the 60s to low 70s to transplant your blueberry. It's summer time in your area and the temp is way too hot for your young blueberry to handle the transplanting stress.

    If you have plenty of peatmoss to spare, you can try mixing your own acid potting mix by using 30% coarse pinebark mulch with 70% peatmoss. lay a thin layer of coarse pinebark mulch at the bottom of the pot to help with drainage. Make sure to mix in the coarse pinebark mulch with the peatmoss thoroughly. The coarse pinebark will aerate the peatmoss as it tends to compact and clumps together over time. Blueberry grows better in aerated medium as their roots are fine and weak.

    I have had great success with using seasol (a seaweed tonic solution for plants, it's not a fertilizer) on my blueberries before transplanting. A week or 2 before transplanting, water your blueberry with a diluted seaweed solution, apparently it helps plants to cope with stress, drought and cold. I have been using it religiously every 2 weeks and my blueberries are loving it.

    At the time of transplanting, i drowned my Sunshine Blues in diluted seaweed solution before digging it out. Once in the pot, i watered them again with more seasol and kept up with the seasol watering for another week or 2 every few days. A few weeks later, my Sunshines started producing a lot of flowerbuds which I had to pull off.

    Accordin to the blueberry book I read, it's best not to let young blueberry plants to bear fruits until they're at least 3 years old and that their roots have settled in. Blueberries tend to overbear fruits even if they are under stress.

    They did a research/experiment by letting a group (A) of young blueberry plants bear fruits each year and while removing all the flowerbuds from another group (B) of young blueberry plants. They weighted the berries produced by each plant in group A and by the 3rd and 4th year. The total weight of the berries produced by each plant in group B were higher than group A (counting and including all the berries from the previous years).

    Also, to get sweeter tasting berries, it's best to have 1:3 berry and leaves ratio, meaning having 3 leaves to support 1 berry on a stem, this ensures the berry gets enough glucose collected from the leaves. 1:2 ratio is ok too, the berry would still taste sweet. While a 1:1 ratio may affect the taste of the berry, it may not be as sweet.