There are no rules regarding the darker color on top or bottom of a chair rail. It's a matter of personal choice. Personally, I prefer the "personality" color, be it lighter or darker, to go above the chair rail with a neutral or other color flowing from an adjacent room, below. I also like to see a chair rail and wainscoting (below the chair rail) done in the same color. In your case, that would mean adding honey oak wainscoting. For your Craftsman style, that would mean square flat panels or board and batten. I have not looked at the artichoke color that was suggested in a previous post, but generally speaking, a true American Craftsman palette would be rich earth tones...hues found in nature. Golds, tans, earthy greens, rusts..all warm tones which will work well with your natural wood. If a color isn't found in nature, try to avoid it in your palette. Cool tones such as pale blue, aqua, pinks, whites or anything pastel will not feel at home with your honey golden oak. You may interpret rich earth tones as too dark. If that's how you feel, then choose a lighter neutral such as Benjamin Moore's Putnam Ivory, HC-39 for the majority of your walls. Then use punches of rich color in special areas such as your dining room, powder room, kitchen island base, etc. There is also no reason why both the top and bottom of a divided wall can't be the same color...especially in a room like your living room where most of the lower wall is covered with furniture. Just don't forget to consider the color of your oak as you select the rest of your palette.

Hi You are correct. I did not upload my photo properly to my first post. I'm a newbie to Houzz. I posted a second time with a photo. Would greatly appreciate design input. Thanks

You should ask your designer if that opening is for s standard size or counter depth fridge. Counter depth fridges cost about $1k more and offer a lot less space. By swapping the LS cabs and adding a filler for door opening will allow you to frame out the fridge for a standard one. This allows replacement a lot easier.

I believe the code is no combustable material (including wood) less than 30" from the range top, so the wood may be up high enough. The metal piece is called a vent liner and it does get greasy and is easy to wipe down - much more so than bare wood. I did a quick check and all the liners I found that fit that vent insert have 4" sides - like mine. It does not look like you can push your vent up at all to accommodate the 4". A carpenter might be able to add a piece to the lower edge of the cabinet - like a mantel of some kind - to hide the liner. You want to keep such a piece 30" up - in all honesty, mine is a bit lower. That particular code does not seem to be enforced in my area as I see hoods like mine (a little lower than 30") all the time - and even worse, wooden shelves holding microwaves way low. They may be more picky with new builds though. This liner pictured comes in rectangular too - scroll down the page for the variations shown in the picture below: https://www.kitchensource.com/range-hoods/na-090654sm2.htm