I think you'd be better to have the builder and cabinet maker provide YOU with pictures of what they're thinking.

Many (if not most) cabinet manufacturers do framed cabinets. IMO framed full overlay can look a lot like frameless. And then there's inset.....

At the very least, get photos of framed shaker (full overlay and NO full overlay), frameless shaker and inset. Make sure that you're all on the same page regarding what you'll be getting.

I know that Kraftmade is a framed cabinet so any photos you find of Kraftmade Shaker door will likely be framed. The difference will be if they're inset or full overlay.

You may have seen this photo but this is a good photo of the diff between framed and frameless.

Here is shaker inset. Notice how they're inside the face frame.

BTW - if any KDs are here and I'm giving incorrect info, PLEASE tell me where I'm going wrong!

The last photo are inset doors.

Keep in mind that inset cabinets are more costly than overlay. You might want to consider a full overlay with a face frame.

What are the specs on the cabinet construction of both?

I agree, if you are trying to save money, full overlay with face frames would be the way to go. Cabinets built with face frames are much stronger than frameless also!

Thank you all for your replies. We decided to go with the framed cabinets as the cost for the frameless was 10% more. However, what I did not like about the framed shakers was that some of the drawer fronts were smooth without any molding. So, the builder redrew the plans and gave me deeper upper drawers with the shaker look front. I did lose a drawer on the bank of 4 and am down to just 3 drawers, but it will work. I am attempting to attach the pdf files showing the 2 different versions below. Hopefully it works.

nope - sorry it won't let me attach pdf files. Thank you all again. Interesting that someone pointed out that the framed construction was much sturdier - which make sense if one thought about it. However, the cabinet maker I'm trying to work with did not mention that. He didn't mention a lot of things . . . sigh.

Reading back over the comments above, I just now realized I had a 3rd choice - framed/inset. What I saw at the cabinet maker's site was the framelss (see attached pic), which was what I picked but was not told what I was looking at until I got the pdf plans and noticed they didn't look like what I picked out!!, In the ensuing discussions about why my cabinets did not look like the ones I picked out, we discussed framed and frameless, but not "framed inset." Argh. He would have not been my choice to build my cabinets as he seriously lacks a basic understanding of communication skills. However, my builder has contracted with him for many yrs and has been our go-between/mediator and that's working. For the record, we went with the framed overlays i knotty alder. I found enough pictures on the net and the builder sent me a pdf mock-up. Sigh . . . first time building a house. And, . . the LAST! Yeesch . . . so much I never knew and more than I'll ever remember.

As you are finding there are a LOT of details to consider when building or renovating a house. This is one of the many reasons I feel people should work with a designer or architect and get more drawings, details and specifications up front. If done right the up front planning pays for itself 10 times over.

I am glad you were able to get some direction on Houzz.

I address this question with our clients all the time. I sell more framed cabinets, because we offer more lines of framed, but personally I am a fan of both. I wrote an article about this, in the hopes that it would make the differences clearer to my clients:
http://cabinets4u.blogspot.com/2014/09/cabinets-101-framed-vs-frameless.html
I have sold both for years, and I think as long as you sell a quality product, the construction is less important.

@cabinets 4u: you might want to check the date on posts before responding.

Cabinets4u is correct. It is now March 2015 and I am finding this discussion extremely useful.

I agree that good advice is useful anytime, and I'm looking at this topic in March 2016. Thanks Cabinets4U.

I think what is more important is too make sure you have a plywood boxes and blumotion full extension draws, attached to dovetail draws and pullouts. With draws becoming more popular for pots and pans, and even for dishes, the full extension blum hardware can take a lot of weight vs easy close. As always it is what you don't see that makes for a good value in something as important and expensive as Kitchen Cabinets. Remember MDF boxes can warp, give off gases, and MDF shelves can't take much weight once you go over 24" wall cabinets.

Cabinets4u,can you tell me, where I can find cabinets shaker frameless in NY ?(new jersey, etc)

I'm shopping the topic in 2018 and it is still relevant. I guess the point has been made.

And continues to be relevant in 2021....funny how that works.

Regarding Stonehillady's comments about MDF: I get the importance of wood boxes, if I'm using correct terminology. I wanted all wood including doors, but the Lowes affiliate who might be making my cabinets is saying that the MDF doors will hold up better than wood doors. Is this true? Are there advantages to non-real wood doors?

MDF doors have an slight advantage on looks alone if you want painted doors, as they won't shrink and grow with humidity and temperatures; the paint finish on wood can crack slightly at the seams due to this. However, moisture will destroy them. If you want wood tone, there's no comparison.