Updating ballon framing

9 years ago

Hello all, my wife and I recently purchased a 1888 four square on chicagos south side. We have an architect, and GC as well as doing tons of work on our own. The house is a balloon frame. It has been completely demoed. The foundation in still in great shape but all of the floor joist were sinking badly. Almost 5" in the middle! We are all in on this project and not looking to take any short cuts. My question is about the windows. specifically adding headers. So the first floor is relatively simple to carry the jacks and cripples down to the sil plate. But on the second floor how do you achieve this? Do the new jacks have to run all the way down also? Or just anchors to the closet "king". Secondly, I can build up a new header to match old stud thickness, But new studs are not as thick as old, which side do you cheat on, or do you rip down 2x6s? Although that's a lot of ripping! Or reuse old 2x4, but that's a lot of nail pulling! I'd love to know what folks have done or seen or how you would like to do it if you could. Like I said we are really going for it and I don't want to skimp where it counts. Thanks so much many more questions to come

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Comments (8)

cpartist
9 years ago
Wow congrats. I don't know the answer. Try also asking on the Building a Home forum.
User
9 years ago
Jacks & kings typically run to the sill plate but if the problem is with the floors why are the windows involved?
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User
9 years ago
Sorry I meant to say sole plate for the king studs.
Michael Gettes
Original Author
9 years ago
Sorry, two different issues. The floors are being replaced with new steel and tji's. The question was only about the windows.
PRO
Sombreuil
9 years ago
Do you have a detail for how the new floor joists tie into the studs? Using the old let-in ribbon?

Also, go to a sawmill and buy full 2x4's.

The jacks can bear on the (window; rough) sill; the rough sill bears on a cripple- secure to the king studs with glue and timberlock screws. In the old days it was green lumber and 20d nails.
PRO
Linda
9 years ago
Check out the ReBuilding Xchange for old growth lumber that already has the nails pulled.
jasoninchicago
9 years ago
Hi,

Usually you don't need headers on a ballooned frame house. There should be a ledger which runs the whole perimeter of the house and supports the second floor, this is essentially a header which runs around the whole house. Usually when I see sinking floors, particularly on the normal 25' to 35' lots it's either due to a damaged foundation or some problem with the center bearing wall; columns in the basement have rotted and sunk, walls are too far offset from each other, someone took out one of the walls without adding a header, etc.

My building has 3 3/4" thick studs in the wall. I have added regular 3.5" thick boards as new "kings" and headers when making repairs/reno's. I usually line everything up on the outside wall so the sheathing can be properly attached. Drywall is then shimmed or doubled or whatever to match the plaster. Windows and doors all require jamb extensions as the exterior sheathing is 1" rather than 1/2", studs are thicker by 1/4" and interior lathe/plaster is about 1" rather than 1/2" for sheet rock. It's a pain.

Why not just tear down the whole building and start over? Most balloon frames from 1890-1915 aren't really all that nice; they're ok but if you've gut to the studs and you're not subject to some historical rules or zoning weirdness, you're not saving anything by keeping the old frame.
User
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
New code may call for headers even in an existing balloon frame. I usually find all the issues @ cantileavers (support) and or ribbons failing the second floor. suprised your here asking this question, you have a Local GC and local Architect that cant answer?