One hopefully easy thing to check before going after the carb and plug etc, is to see if you can empty the gas from the tank and the carburetor into a glass container. Perhaps you will find a huge puddle of water in there!

I will check that but the tank has been closed tightly, and as I said it is almost new. It is humid here on the Piedmont east of Raleigh, but not that humid.

Spray some carb cleaner into the breather to see if you have any spark , it should attempt to start !

It lives in a dirty dusty work environment. I would service it completely, and clean the carb and jets, the tank inside, and sharpen what needs sharpening with a sander, etc. Also, mine has some kill switches and a key switch that can get funky once in a while, but its a different brand and I am not sure if that describes yours.

Most all lawn tractors have 3 to 4 interlock safety switch's Seat switch , brake \ clutch switch , PTO switch , and some reverse switch . However 1 st I think the op has to determined if it is a fuel or spark related issue , thus carb cleaner to prime the engine to establish if he has spark . If no spark then electrical switch's or main ignition fuse would be initial electrical test to perform , prior to random tearing into anything !

The Cub Cadet CS3310 is an upright chipper shredder, not a lawn tractor.

http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/cs-3310

While the shed is not air tight, it is a somewhat clean environment in the woods with lawn around it. All of the roads in our addition are paved so there is little traffic dust.

I referred to the dust from when it is in use. Fuel tanks are a real problem for never being cleaned over the years. Plus the air filter take a beating from sawdust. Also, with the tank above the carb, you should have a good fuel pressure on start, so probably some particle is in the main jet, or some small orifice that balances air pressure in that carb. With an ohv engine that size though, if the carb gets cleaned and the spark plug etc is good, ensuring the valves are set perfect sure makes a difference. But I take it to be fairly new so that really should not be a big deal. Some canned carb cleaner and a thin wire should fix it up.

I spent the morning working on the Chipper shredder, and still no start. I pulled the gas line from the carburetor and there is gas. I pulled the spark plug and it had gas on it.

The manufacturer recommends 30 weight oil, What if I put in a lower weight oil ie 20 or 10? It seems this would reduce the friction and spin a little faster creating a little more energy to fire the plug.

I am running out of ideas. I have tried the Cub Cadet website, and it appears to be dead as the chat form is in-active and the telephone message says the number is not in service. I called the local store, and they would work on it only if I bring the unit into their store. The largest vehicle I have is a van so it would have to be laid down and you can not do that.

Right now the only thing I know is if you are considering a Cub Cadet Chipper/shredder, it is an 800 dollar boat anchor and I would recommenced that you not buy it. Even if I get it started I still will probably sell it, as it is not worth this frustration every time I try to use it.

Sorry that you are still having issues, but you really have to expect to work on small engines from time to time. I doubt that an electric would be powerful enough for you.

It didn't sound like you really checked the gas as agressively as I suggested. I brought it up because a mechanic found more than a cup of water in my chipper's gas. Admittedly, I had never drained this tank and water may have accumulated over several years versus just several months. I am only 50 miles from you (other side of Raleigh) so my humidity that I consider atroucious applies to you too. Water settles to the bottom, but the pick up may not be at the exact bottom and water could come into the carb bowl with engine vibration rather than a quick look at something coming from the fuel line.

There is a metal bowl on the bottom of the carb. It has a nut that is removable. It is sealed with a rubber ring about the to. This is where that gas from the line ends up. From there, quite literally, a brass straw siphons it out. Very simple, but there are 2 controls for safety and overspeed, that being the nut holding the bowl has tiny holes from both sides and down the middle that restrict flow, and a float, not unlike a toilet bowl float, that rides atop the gas shutting off too much fuel from entering the bowl. So take the nut off and poke the holes clean, and insure the float has no leak so it allows fuel. This is the main problem with those siphon type carbs.

Oh , Chipper My Bad , same thing just less Safety interlocks to deal with . From the additional info you have indicated you have fuel , wet plug . Good fresh fuel , Doubtful . I think you are less than mechanically inclined buy your reference of changing oil viscosity to increase compression or spark ? 1st of all water in fuel is caused by thermal cycles or other wise known as significant temp swings . Which can cause dew point temps that can cause condensation to form within a fuel system . Let's try to apply the KISS Method . Keep it simple Stupid ! You have a typical late model Briggs air cooled 4 cycle engine that most likely has a fouled spark plug from stale efuel , which may have water entrainment to boot . Good luck with that . So let's install a new plug with fresh fuel , along with some concentrated fuel cleaner . No do not take anything apart at this stage . Prime the engine as previously advised with carb cleaner sprayed directly into the carb , does it attempt to fire ? No , then remove plug and ground to head and check for spark ! No spark ? Bad Ignition coil or Safety Interlock as previously mentioned . Not Rocket science so don,t begin sharpening anything or tearing the float bowl or metering rod out until you do a little preventative maintenance . Work Smart not Hard !!! As tricky has indicated your float inlet valve may be fouled or the metering rod may have orifice waxing from sour fuel . However you must 1 st establish you have spark Grasshopper !

All kinds of issues possible Tricky , no fuel , check for inline or integral fuel tank filter . Or wet plug , check air filter , fouled with sawdust will cause rich fuel ratio and flood the plug or cause diesel like start up as described by the op . By the way MMO has both solvency and lubricity as does Sea foam . Concentrated fuel cleaner such as Kleen Flo etc are all solvent . Continued use of Kleen Flo could cause fuel injectors to stick in small engined marine applications , just saying ! Novice ops need only a small dosage Bro ! Amen . lol

Chas045 , Sound advice , clean fresh fuel is imperative in this Efuel Age .

KIS! Keep It Simple. Is a good starting point with the basics before any “Tear Downs” Fire, Fuel and Compressions are the basics to test that should indicate “Basic Issues” or Needs.

1. Pull and ground your plug while cranking to check for fire.
2. Use a few drops of “Fresh Fuel” directly in the spark plug’s hole to know it’s fresh fuel.
3. A simple Compression check can be felt vs a free spin (even with compression release).

The history given is saying it could be a simple issue that is being looked over due to past experiences.

Good Luck!

I still have not been able to get the unit running, but have noticed a trend in the comments. The term Fresh fuel has been used many times, and from what I read Fresh means less than 30 days old.

If I ever get this chipper started, to regularly maintain the unit I should top off the tank after use, and put stabilizer in the gas. Thirty one days later I should drain the tank, add new gas and stabilizer and run it for 10 minutes. 100 days when the brush pile gets in need of chipping, I will have drained the tank and replenished with fresh gas and stabilizer three times. and the chipper shredder will start and run like it should?

What do you do with all of this gas that you have collected? Since the tank is about 3 qt, that would be about 2.5 gallons of gas that I would have to get rid of.

Answer: " I think you are less than mechanically inclined buy your reference of changing oil viscosity to increase compression or spark "

The question was; if I use a lower viscosity oil ie 10 instead of 30, will the reduced viscosity allow the engine to turn a little faster, and will it be easier to start

Have you checked the compression with a gauge? Just as a minimum, I will see if my thumb can hold the compression in for a minimum test. Without compression release I feel I should not be able to hold the compression in the cylinder. Most of all if you feel Zero pressure. I would say pull the two screw cover where the valve adjustment can be checked and look for movement as the engine turns.

What are some of the possibilities a Critter could have caused in storage?? Issues from off season storage are usually not that bad if a critter has not killed the fire (that you verified).

Do you have yardmen working in your area? If so, ask one if he will quick check the issue. Most experienced will have a good idea in minutes.

Remember, “Good Fire, Fuel and Compression”, should give you
combustion.

• Knuttle , 1 st try spraying some carb cleaner into the damm carb throat and answer the original question . Then follow the other recommendation s rather then asking more redundant questions . Instead of slamming the Briggs & Stratton Corporation , maintain your equipment properly . Loger , What verification ? He does not even know if he has spark yet ! Hell no don,t use Stabil , rather Startron available @ Walmart 1.5 ounce in 5 gallons and fuel is good for 2 yrs in storage .

Your question of what to do with sour fuel has been answered , however should you have efuel that is questionable , even if mixed with oil you can use it in your auto , which is much less prone to small engine carburetion issues then lawnmowers or chippers etc . Further yes less viscosity will allow the engine to spinn faster but unless ambient temps are 30 degrees F or colder this is a mute if not marginal gain . Loger does offer sound advice if your chipper has a larger displacement Briggs , valve adjustment is very important to compression and Startability (is that a word ) ? Lmao ! Hell with your luck and advanced preventative mtce , carbon fouled valves could be causing low compression ?

Man... so the old men I know have a cutoff 1/4 turn valve on all their machines and they will starve the rig for fuel upon storage by shutting off the valve and allowing the respective machine to shut down on fuel starvation. A dry carb stores better is all. Ssewalk1 is right, put on some nitrile gloves and get your gloves dirty, its not a big thing to fix your problem. Should you need to drop gas, it is what they call an organic solvent but please, do not put it near a plant when you pour it out.

Hell yeah Tricky we do not want the tree huggers after us lol. I use startron and it keeps fuel fresh for 2 yrs in storage . I have not had a customer come back with fouled carbs with use of this product . Previously I drained fuel via your advised method . Even fogged engine and stuffed rags in the carb and exhaust lol. Fuel shutoffs are a very prudent investment , save a lot of grief should the inlet valve on the carb bypass to your crankcase . Also further to the op,s gripe the Briggs in question is a pro grade commercial Model 11-50 with forged crank and cast iron sleeve , nothing cheap about this series of engine design ! Even quality units require routine maintainance .

End of the saga I hope!

If you remember when I bought this chipper shredder in February 2017, the first unit did not have a carburetor. I took it back and they gave me a new unit. I used it for several times over a month.

Last week I tried to start the unit unsuccessfully. I spent the rest of the day working on the unit, and gave up, until this morning. I spent the morning trying to get it started. Cleaned carburetor, tasted carburetor cleaner and it does not taste good Neither does starting fluid.

About noon I decided to take it back to the dealer whom I had previously called last week. Drove into town to rent a trailer. Came back home and loaded the old Chipper, and drove it back to the dealer.

This is where I got a big surprise. Rather than unloading it and putting it in his shop, he switched it out for a brand new unit. Had to take the new unit back home, unload it, and finally took the trailer back into town to the the Uhaul dealer.

This now makes the third unit I have had in trying to get a chipper shredder. I put it in the shed and will put it into service some time after my grandson's vacation from school. Since the first unit was missing a carburetor and how the dealer resolved the problem with this unit I wonder if starting is a problem with the current production of this model of chipper shredder.

No none of us remember anything from Feb ...sheesh ! Hopefully , now you realize that you should spend $6.00 and by 8 ounces of Startron which will treat 48 gallons of gas . Should out last your chipping endeavours .

Did you or the dealer start the new machine before you left the Business? I’ll usually get a “funny look” but I want some verification a problem is resolved. When
resolving a problem is involved vs driving away.

quote "Did you or the dealer start the new machine before you left the Business?"

These machines come to the dealer with no gas or oil in the engine. There is a container of oil in the set up kit. I was able to bring the first two units home in the back of my van by putting them on their back. To take the old one back in I had to rent a trailer. The last unit started right up when I put gas and oil in it.

QUESTION: Why is is safe for new units to be stored with out gas in the carburetor, but after you set them up is not safe to run them dry and store them with out gas in the carburetor.

Running them dry is the preferred method to store engines that will not be run for extended periods . However you must ensure you treat your fuel prior, so to protect against any residual fuel fouling internal carb circuits or components . Eg: extended periods 3 , 6 , 9 or more months etc .

In our North Texas Drought of 03 - 06 my 35 HP Chrysler sat 3 years “Bone Dry”. That was hard due to our first year of retirement. Meaning the
3 of us could fish more but we adjusted. After the drought we started fishing againal most weeks during the summer months.

The previous owner of my 1970 35HP Chrysler on a 1968 RayCraft 15’ Fiberglass Boat, “Schooled Me Good” in about two hours on the lake.

The most impressive was to never leave the lake w/o running the engine dry because you do not know when you will be able to get on a lake again. I did that for 3 year at least until I heard about Sta-Bil. I did not run the
engine dry ever again until approx 2013 and it started every “Summer” mainly on
the left over treated fuel. It took so long to run it dry, it was a waste.

When I slowed with no idea of when I would feel like fishing again, I ran it bone Dry. Then I used the remainder of treated 50:1 fuel in Trimmers and Chainsaws. My point is long storage Bone Dry (over years) and treated fuel per year (1-2 years) has worked for me. Bone Dry is no fuel source, drained fuel bowls at carb and fuel pump (in boat’s case) and run until it will no longer start.

With either stabilizer, check the shelf life. I only use 2-3 gallons of gas since going to
electric saws at home. I have only personally used Sta-Bil for my small use.

*** How do I get Fresh Fish Without Fishing? What is a Good Sub For Texas Fresh Water Fish? Thanks!!

Yep run em dry or Startron is my choice , off to the fish market four u Loger ! lol.

When I got my Cub Cadet CS-0033 chipper shredder I had a problem getting it to start. Tractor Supply replaced the unit. That was six years ago. With the new unit after every use I have drained the gas tank and ran the motor until it is stops. I pull the starter cord a couple of times after it stops just to clear any remain gas.

I use the chipper shredder about two to four times per year. After adding gas to the tank and letting it set for 15 minutes to a half an hour, to let the gas fill the carburetor bowl it usually starts after several attempts. If is a problem a squirt of carburetor cleaner into the carburetor will start the engine, After it is started it starts with one pull for the rest of the session.

As I said I had a lot of problems with the first unit and was ready to use it for a boat anchor. However after using it for six years I find it is a good reliable unit for keeping the yard waste under control. The only problems I have had with it is the spring that is suppose to hold the chute broke off after a couple of season, but this was easily resolved. The other problem is the chute hinge. After six years, while workable, sections of the hinge have broken. It will have to be replaced.

I would definitely recommend this unit to others looking for a chipper shredder. ( assuming this model is still available.)