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dbarronoss

Newbie citrus person with question

8 years ago

Ok, I've killed at least four meyers over many years, every time I tried a small one from Logee's. Now, I've been lurking and reading and mixed a 1-1-1 soil, bare rooted the small plant I received on 10-21-17 and repotted it. I've watered four times since then (it does drain well and is in a south window, it spent a few days outside when it first arrived).

I noticed yesterday tiny new branches being produced at a couple of places. I do remember that in the past, I've never matured a leaf before killing the tree...the new growth would always fall off. I'm pretty sure that was due to too much moisture retention. I'm assuming new vegetative growth appearing so soon after a repot, is a good sign?

Comments (31)

  • 8 years ago

    New growth is always a good sign. Give it lots of light, don't over water, start the feeding regimen with half a doze of fertilizer ( I feed my trees in winter only with half doze). Post a picture of your tree, we love pictures here :)



    dbarron thanked sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
  • 8 years ago

    Pic! Pic! Pic! Pic!!

    dbarron thanked Horrifying Citrus Monster (Zone 7b, NYC)
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Cell phone photos (too lazy to do the whole camera thing this morning)...and remember it's just a baby/rooted cutting size...but if you insist:

    On the small branch near the label, there are two (edit: on examining the below photo..make it three) new branches...here's a really awful pic of one.

    Oh please note, moved to washing machine out of window/sunlight to photograph, I don't GROW it on the washer ;)

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Can you take a picture of the trunk at soil level if you don't mind , something is telling me it is planted too deep. Make sure your container has holes in the bottom.

    dbarron thanked sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
  • 8 years ago

    I always like to use clay pots with my citrus they are cheap and allow air to your roots. You can also put gravel in the bottom of the pot for drainage. As a beginner I would recommend you try a lime tree. Unlike a Meyer lemon they will bear fruit and flower at the same time, and usually at a younger age.

    dbarron thanked coreycampbell1987 .
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Gravel in the bottom of the pot is unnecessary. Having lots of holes in the bottom of the pot is important.

    dbarron thanked sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
  • 8 years ago

    Corey first Meyer is known for flowering and having fruits at different stages at the same time. Using a clay put in the cold northern hemisphere lets the rootball get cold and risk root rot. Gravel on the bottom does not prevent over watering mistakes. Small particles get between the gravel like slick and prevent circulation of oxygen to the roots. A much better solution is to have the right potting mix for your area and never let the tree stand in water. Nothing to do with opinion.

    dbarron thanked Susanne Michigan Zone 5/6
  • 8 years ago

    I agree with Susanne.

    dbarron thanked Vladimir (Zone 5b Massachusetts)
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Potting at the appropriate level was on my watch list..I don't believe I potted any higher than Logee's had. Though that is possible with bare rooting. If so, it should be very slightly.

    I purposefully chose the meyers, and it's the meyers I have (discussion above about limes :) ).

    This plant was originally in a 4 inch pot, I repotted it into the same, as the root system was essentially not too much past a freshly rooted cutting, I think 2 1/2 would have been too small, but I believe it is appropriately sized to grow till at least February till I need to shift it to a 6 inch (assuming good winter growth..which is not a given).

    I water (especially with these light mixes) by pot weight on most things. Being new to this particular pot, I also checked by inspection of the mix. Currently the mix appears to require water every 4-6 days, depending on my weather. I haven't yet fertilized at all due to root disturbance and allowing reestablishment time, but with that new growth (which I discovered yesterday while watering with plain water), I will do a weak fertilizer on the next watering.

  • 8 years ago

    Is it one plant? If it is, I would remove the soil from the fork line, to avoid rot. I have made that mistake before and my cutting died from stem rot.

    dbarron thanked sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I originally wondered if it was one plant or two when I first saw it. It is one and that was the depth that it was previously growing at. It has been 3 weeks and I can't say I memorized the root system but I feel like I wouldnt have replanted it that high if the existing roots didn't require it. I do remember debating this very issue with myself. I'm going to assume that I had good reason for my decision.

  • 8 years ago

    https://youtu.be/9IwyYtGT7mM here's a link to a video from logees where they talk about the advantages of using clay for plants that are prone to root disease.

    dbarron thanked coreycampbell1987 .
  • 8 years ago

    Always plant trees right at level at which the stem ends and the root starts, they are usually different in colour.

    dbarron thanked sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    By the way guys I've been growing plants for about 40 years, including orchids, exotic tropicals, etc. Citrus have been my bane I admit but I think that was due to water issues caused by soil issues and not quite understanding the citrus. I won't swear that I have them yet but I'm not inexperienced. I personally like clay pots for many things but if this young tree is successful it will not be in pot long. I chose this because the root system existing was in a square shape rather than round like my clay pots. I would have had to either cram the roots and risk damage or over potted to use clay.

    When I'm able to pot up to a six inch pot, it'll be clay.

  • 8 years ago

    https://youtu.be/PSMw2k_LcEU Suzanne here's a link from logees where they talk about Meyer Lemon fruit and flowering cycles. Generally smaller container grown Meyer lemons will not flower until the fruit is ripe as it takes a lot of energy from the plant. Older very large plants are less likely to be affected by this.

    dbarron thanked coreycampbell1987 .
  • 8 years ago

    dbarron I also don't claim to be an expert, everyone has there own way of doing things. I prefer clay pots :) some people dont. I have been growing citrus since 2012 and my Meyer lemon is my oldest tree. It is bearing fruit heavily this year I guess it's age to be about 8 years as it was 2 to 3 years of age when I bought it.

  • 8 years ago

    Well, that brings up a question I have. I suppose I should remove any fruit that forms for a year or two at least ?

  • 8 years ago

    The first 2 years my Meyer did flower but dropped all the fruit. Having fruit on a small plant puts a lot of stress on it, if you look closely at the leaves you can see my tree is under stress there are 9 or ten good size lemons on it and it's a small tree. I would guess it will drop the fruit on it's own until it reaches a decent size as that's what happened with mine.

    dbarron thanked coreycampbell1987 .
  • 8 years ago

    my meyer lemons, both with fruits and flowers


    as you can see, with proper care the meier is flowering while growing fruits

    dbarron thanked Susanne Michigan Zone 5/6
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Btw, my older meier must be about the same age as yours, bought is 2013 from FW but is humongous compared to your meier tree.

    Meier is the only one that will hold on to fruit for dear life. I had to take a
    lot of the fruits off of the smaller meier in order to safe her some
    energy for herself. Any other citrus would drop them if they can not
    support the fruits.

    dbarron thanked Susanne Michigan Zone 5/6
  • 8 years ago

    Susanne, I've read that. I'll faithfully remove lemons till the tree is at least 2 foot high and pretty much that wide (ie well established)...assuming I don't commit citrucide before then. I may then try a lime next time (lol)...I keep killing meyers, I should spread the love around. But basically I haven't tried one in fiveteen years, I hope I learned something since then.


  • 8 years ago

    I also agree with adding the gravel, it also helps to weigh down the containers

  • 8 years ago

    Hehe, Christine tell that to people that are still sore from hauling their trees inside for winter.

  • 8 years ago

    Susanne, that's why my grapefruit container has wheels lol

  • 8 years ago

    Yes Christine I agree the gravel helps weight the pots as I deal with high winds in my area too, and Suzanne nice trees I could never let mine get that large I would never have the space !!! Someday I hope to add a sunroom to our house.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Just so you guys know..those tiny branchlets I posted (after discovering while photographing) are now about an inch long, with developing tiny leaves..

    I think today is watering/fertilizing day for it...to spur that new growth. We had cloudy rainy days for three days there, so evaporation was minimal and watering wasn't needed.

    At least I'm not posting about the tree dying or losing leaves ;)

  • 8 years ago

    good to hear :)

  • 8 years ago

    There's always lots of blogs and articles saying that gravel will help with drainage but here is a source that mentions why it doesn't work

    http://m.extension.illinois.edu/containergardening/choosing_drainage.cfm


    The very informative thread on container drainage by Tapla explains what the perched water table is and how it acts. The gravel doesn't change anything besides possibly blocking the holes as Susanne mentioned. I recommend against gravel but the clay pots is up the personal preference and growing style!

  • 8 years ago

    Bumping this old thread (of mine), and updating to say the little Meyer has been outside for about two weeks (cold spring) and new branchlets are everywhere, some approaching six inches now. It's also throwing a few blossoms at the tip of the oldest branch. I know I shouldn't let them fruit, but should I try to remove them asap when they're big enough to take off without breaking baby leaves or growth point?

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    You can let them turn into little fruitlets then take them off or take the blossoms off when you see the flowers starting to dry up. People say it's best to take them off but leaving one fruit is okay if you really want one. I had left one fruitlet on mine when it was in bad shape and it still recovered.

    Since we're starting to enter the best time of the growth season though, it's probably best not to let it fruit. Let your tree grow to its hearts content while it's nice out before the dreaded overwintering. It will flower again in the fall/winter so if you want you can decide to keep one then!

    dbarron thanked kvetchlambkin (nyc 7b)