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Apricot Tree Maintenance

8 years ago

Trying to grow this 5 gallon Apricot tree that I purchased this summer. I live in Orange County, CA.


I keep removing the bottom feeders (suckers?) literally every 2-3 weeks. Should I just let them grow out, I am not noticing growth anywhere else on tree?



Comments (6)

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Continue to remove the suckers. If they remain, they will take over.

    Which apricot is it? Few are successful in So Cal because they typically need more chilling hours during winter than the climate provides.

    Jean,

    who gardened in Long Beach, CA, for 30-some years


    P.S.: Appears to be far too close to the wall.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    If this is a grafted tree onto some rootstock, you may want to keep the suckers removed; they might not even be apricot material. The original label might give some info.

  • 8 years ago

    Make sure the green bands are not too tight, this could cause problems with nutrients flowing up the tree.

  • 8 years ago

    Thank you all for the advice.

    It's a Gold Kist Apricot, the nursery told me it should be able to grow here.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    It's commonly said that apricots won't be successful in So Cal, but 4 years ago I planted a Blenheim/Royal apricot tree just South of Irvine and it had about 40 apricots growing on it, 11 of which developed all the way and ripened into delicious fruits. The year before that 4 of them developed all the way. Blenheim isn't really considered a very low chill variety.

    I kept the tree well watered in the Summer. That's the mistake many people make, and then they wonder why their little planted stone fruit tree dies. If it goes more than one week in the Summer without water, it won't be good. The water needs a chance to soak down deep in the soil. The tree won't need as frequent watering later in a year or two after the root system is established.

    Something else I believe and will point out here. Although rootstock that is more dwarfing will induce stone fruit to begin producing earlier in their lifespan, especially in a climate where they do not have enough chill, it will also reduce the chance that they will be able to survive more than 2 or 3 years in that climate. It's too much stress being on dwarf rootstock and not getting enough chill. Even though the dwarf rootstock can be used as a strategy to try to get the tree to produce fruit when it is not getting enough chill. I always go with standard rootstock for stone fruit.

    Gold Kist should have no problem in SoCal, even though they're not quite as big and delicious as Blenheim.

  • 8 years ago

    Am in little north of L.A. I have a 3 IN 1, Kathy, Gold Kist, and Blenheim/Royal. It will be in the ground for a year come February. Hoping for fruit in another two years.