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Crown molding on existing cabinets

8 years ago


I am installing crown molding on my existing cabinets. I have installed a mounting piece to the top of all my cabinets but one side overhangs and it's not flush with the face (oops). Is this enough of a problem that I need to sand it down before I mount the molding?

Comments (13)

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    It's hard to tell from the photo, but I think the small gap between the crown (once it's installed) and the side of the cabinet can be caulked. Just make sure the caulk matches the cabinet finish. I would tack the crown in place, see how big the gap is, then make my choice.

  • 8 years ago

    Thanks for your quick reply. I am worried that caulking it would make that area stand out as it would be the only part in the kitchen that is caulked?

  • 8 years ago

    Redo. Needs to be flush all the way around.

  • 8 years ago

    That's what I was afraid needed to be done... not my finest DIY moment. So it's already secured to the cabinet frame, do you think sanding would be my best bet?

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    No sanding. Unscrew the screws that you used to mount it from the interior. Then recut it and remount it correctly. Blocking should really be finished before mounting too. Raw wood isn’t going to work.

  • 8 years ago
    Raw wood is fine, it's a nailer.But yes it needs to be taken off and put back flush.
  • 8 years ago

    I like one coat of similar stain because you never know what kind of gaps will develop when you have a newbie doing a molding project. A classic nailing cleat and a Pro? Nah.

  • 8 years ago
    If the diyer has never done crown an unstaimed nailer is not the problem.
  • 8 years ago
    Even with full overlay doors you still have an eighth of rail to lap.
  • 8 years ago

    Brandi-

    Sanding that will never work and will create frustration and damage. I don't know what your skills are or your tools, but the easiest way to deal with this -- which I've done with trim a number of times in similar situations -- is to remove a bit of wood from the backside of the molding so that there is room for that obstruction. This presumes, of course that the height of the crown molding when installed will be a bit more than the thickness of that mounting surface. Wood removal could be done on a router table or with a table saw. This is not difficult, but you do need a bit of skill/experience.

  • PRO
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    You've got overlay doors. Abandon the nailer; it's unnecessary. Using a Japanese pull saw, relieve the scribe strip where the molding goes or build the scribe across the top of the cabinet to flush with the scribe. Nail the crown to the cabinets. No gaps, no caulk.

    I'd stain and finish before I installed it.

    I did it at my house; it looks fine.

    Did it at my father-in-law's too:

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Go to a dedicated molding store and buy cabinet vs crown moldings. Cabinet molding is solid and a basic 90 degree vs 3 different degrees of a crown molding. In most cases there is no need for a nailing strip as when using a crown molding.

    The cost to buy the nail gun, compressor, saw, material and do overs would be better spent on hiring a local carpenter. You have finished stained cabinets there is no fudging with caulk.

    If these were cabinets you were repainting I would say go for it. You don't have the skill set yet don't ruin your cabinets over a couple hundred dollars.

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