Bumping this in hopes of getting some advice.

Thanks!

Don't know much about this disease. But here's info from the University of Vermont: http://www.uvm.edu/~fruit/?Page=treefruit/tf_ipm/KeyAffectingApples/Diseases.html

You might also contact your county Extension Service office wo will have info for home gardeners.

Find the office in your county by using this interactive map:

http://npic.orst.edu/pest/countyext.htm

Thanks for the links Jean. I'd seen the UVM info page, but it doesn't really address CAR on twigs. This disease has interesting life cycle to say the least.

I'll give my Extension service a call after the holidays. Cheers!

Myclobutanil ....

Widely available. Most easily found as Spectracide's IMMUNOX is all big box stores ( Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart etc.)

Easy.... Easy.... Easy.... treatment

Mike

Yeah, thanks mes111. I've read up Immunox as a preventative measure for the future. However, I'm still unclear about what to do with the existing signs of it on my twigs/branches. Typically, it seems that CAR appears on leaves and apples--both of which fall off each year, thus allowing for a chance to preventative spray.

I wonder if the 'lesions' as seen in the pics above require removal from the tree to prevent further spreading, OR has the damage been done and the tree will try to heal over the affected areas?

Cheers. Happy New Year

I am not an expert on Cedar Rust but the pics you show do not look anything like Cedar Rust that I have had on my apple trees, I thought Cedar Rust only affected the leaves on Apple Trees. As MES111 mentioned Immunox is the best solution for Cedar Rust. You have to spray around bud break to about 6 weeks after bloom - roughly every 10 to 14 days depending on the rain. Your one pic where the limb looks burnt and split open looks like fire blight. If it is you need to cut off the limb twelve inches below the blight and throw the limb away. You have to treat your pruner in clorox to get rid of the bacteria. Again I am not an expert but I spray my Apple trees in the fall around Thanksgiving and near bud break with Kocide 3000 for fireblight. Then I spray a mixture of Immunox, Captan and Regalia to fight fungus and fire blight.

Cliff,

I don't think that this is Cedar Rust on the twigs.

Like vafruitluvr said, I would try a good drenching Kocide or other copper spray on the branches as a dormant spray and also as a early spring spray.

As a dormant spray I would add horticultural oil and/or a sticker .

Mike

vafruitluvr and mes111--

Thanks for the comments and advice. I looked into fireblight a bit more and can see where you are coming from. Oddly, none of my other trees on the property are affected by this--perhaps this variety is highly susceptible. We also had a VERY wet blossom time last year...

It looks like some of my cankers could be associated with fireblilght as well. At this point, I'm kind of leaning toward removing all affected areas of the tree (which is a lot for such a young tree, unfortunately) and having some Kocide on hand for this year..

On an unrelated note, I'll be trying my hand at grafting for the first time this year (topworking and rootstock) and have a bunch of scions coming to me. Since I'll be severely cutting back some of these young limbs, is there any potential harm in grafting on a few different varieties and trying to make a multi-variety tree? The only thing I can think of is that I'd want to make the cuts to remove the disease during dormant times, but the 'top-working' should be done at bud-break. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

Cliff

You cant cut them out now and when grafting cut further down...should be about a foot.