I like the tile in the second picture turned the long way against the wall.

the risk is already covered in tile

in your shower , its covering up an inproper CBU and waterproofing install as was pointed out to you in your last post.

What did the plumbing inspector say when your shower pan flood test was done? you do have A permit and covered your investment with a flood test right? you watched that all the water drained?

I see now your worrying and questioning the sloppy workmanship but the hour is late.

Tear out already.

So awetina, you really want to pay attention to the waterproofing issues before the decor. And I think you are in trouble.

Here's what happens: Some time after the check clears (a year, perhaps 2) you start finding leaks, failing tile and mold. At that point you have very little recourse but to rip it all out and the contractor is gone.

From a decorating standpoint - you don't want to do this on-the-fly. You really want to have your tile chosen, the layout figured out, etc. before you buy and esp before you install anything. When doing a floor I like to plot it out on graph paper so I see where the partial tiles will be, for example.

A border tile pattern can solve the issue that you are seeing now -- but I hate to throw that into the mix at this late date.

Now since were looking close, that poor waste of CBU on the floor. absolutely useless and likely not bonded , def not fastened properly. Again with the MFG specs.

thatsmuchbetter is correct. The manufacturers installation instructions were not followed for Cement board or waterproofing which was very clear in the OP's previous post. The CBU on the floor does not appear to have mortar beneath so that will fail as well. This all should have been addressed with the product manufacturer prior to any tile installation. The OP should submit photo's to product manufacturer for a response in writing. Either way to continue at this stage without verified proper installation would be another case of you were warned and choose to ignore. Also clearly visible is the extreme lippage at the vertical grout joint 2" outside the curb. Bet you can't lay a straight edge flat on that wall. awetina it's your choice. Thatsmuchbetter provided red flags in the previous post.

This is really getting scary. I don’t understand much of this. What are backer boards? Are they the same as cement boards? How should they be? Do pros give tile warranty? I didn’t really know about the forum feature of Houzz so I started using it after things are underway. Anyhow, please clarify as best you could.

Where do I find mfg specs and what is TCNA? Where do I look up all info.

I wish one of y'all would quit being so coy and just explain to this poor lady in non technical terms what's going on.

From what I gather they are saying the backer board (same thing as cement board) is not properly applies to the floor. that the shower pan is not properly waterproofed. and that the tile on the wall is not applied such that it is flat (ie it has "lippage")

Sorry nine of the experts on here will be clear with you. sometimes they just like to make.themselves feel smart and make others feel bad rather than Actualy help them.

Stop work and.call another bathroom pro in to take a look at it

USG Durock are your cement backer boards. Go to USG website and watch a installation video. All cement backer units/CBU's must have mortar underneath for a floor installation. Do the same with the waterproofing product that was used. At that point you will most likely have more knowledge than your installer. Educating yourself is the best defense. You need to rely on the manufacturer instructions. Not a public forum or you-tube video. On your previous post all the CBU's in the shower would have had alkali resistant mesh at corners and all joints, including niche embedded in mortar then waterproofing applied. Clearly not done. The paper stickers would have been removed prior also:) You have reason to be concerned.

As for Pro's providing warranty. You don't have a pro.

TCNA (Tile Council of North America) Handbook. Keep in mind manufacturer instructions supersede TCNA

To simplify. If there is not any mortar under the floor CBU's stop the job immediately and address all concerns. Insist all work to be preformed to TCNA and manufacturer specs.

here is a link to the backer board install instructions.

http://www.cusatraining.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/durock.pdf

Page 5 talks about laminating the backer board. Note there are instructions for floors, walls and countertops.

Make sure they thin-set underneath the 1/4" underlayment (concrete board). It says to use seam tape but all in all those little gaps won't matter as long as the above is done. As far as leakage goes, no problems (that is, if I'm picking up what your laying down in your comment)! The length of the room gets the length of the tile as far as layout goes.

Top Tier Tile LLC

It's helpful to have the larger context. There was another post in which the interior of the shower was shown and they didn't mud and tape those seams either. They applied water proofing without removing the paper labels on the board. Some of the obvious issues are a good indication that there will be other issues (drain, membrane, etc).

The owner is going to have a problem with this install if it continues.

Various people are directing the owner to solid - non-debatable - "here's how this is to be done" references that they will need to confront the contractor (who is looking at a significant loss in a tear-out and re-do). There will no-doubt be push back from the contractor.

It's important for the owner to have consistent guidance (follow TCNA manual and manufacturer's instructions) and not muddy the water with anything else.