You can use a product like this http://barricadesubfloor.com/barricade-subfloor.html or simply design your own system using rigid foam and ply/osb. I'd use Huber Advantech with 2" xps.

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/energy-efficiency-and-durability/19013/basement-subfloor-retrofit-insulation-options

I'm not fond of 3-in-1 products. They are often expensive and rarely offer the best of both worlds.

Vapour barriers are stupid-cheap. The building industry standard is 6mil polyethylene sheeting that is properly overlapped (8 inch overlap) and then the seam (the overlap) is then taped using moisture resistant tape (aka "Red Duct Tape"). The poly sheeting = $0.06/sf. The tape is another $0.06. An industry standard vapour barrier can be laid for $0.12/sf.

Then you throw down 6mm (1/4") cork underlayment on top of the vapour barrier (no tape, no glue...it just sits there) for $0.70/sf. Excellent. You have just created an excellent thermal barrier + vapour barrier for less than $1/sf! Now you float your engineered hardwood floor over top and you are done.

The other "systems" will cost you MORE money (Dricore isn't dry; it still needs the vapour barrier as already described above....but it does have the same R-value as the 6mm cork underlay) and take more time to install. And it will do exactly the same thing as the 6mm cork + poly sheeting. Installers love this system as it is cheap, easy, fast and effective.

If you live in a SUPER cold place (like Northern Canada, Norway, N. Sweden, Finland, Russia or Alaska) you can always use 12mm cork underlay (1/2") and have SERIOUS R-value added for about $1.50/sf. Vapour barrier is the same as the 6mm cork.

Have fun.

Thank you everyone--- I am in New York--- we get all the weather here. I ended up selecting DMX Airflow-- the dricore product was too thick-- I have concerns about cork in my climate-- we have very inconsistent humidity levels- I built my house 5 years ago and the expansion and contraction of the wood (crowns, doors, flooring- etc.) has been a challenge- lots of adjusting and filling. DMX airflow seems like a fair solution. I appreciate all of the advice, thanks again!

Skip engineered wood in a basement. Period. You have to go to stupid lengths to do it “right” and still end up with it ruined when the sump pump fails or you have a rainier than average spring.

Put down LVT and call it good.

Cork handles NY better than wood...just so you know. And if you are using a glue/nail/staple install, you must use a sheet of plywood over the DMX product. If you need to use the plywood, you then have to anchor the DMX to the concrete (tap cons) which drive the price up up up!

The air-flow part of this is ok-ish. The R-value is nominal. Cork and a sheet of plastic would give you double or triple the R-value for 1/3 the price.

Good luck. Please check to see what that DMX needs. Many, many, many people have had a nasty shock when they try to install it (only to find they need many more steps than what is advertised).

Just a little FYI for DIY.

Hi, I know this is an old post but I am curious @Elizabeth Yannone how the DMX is working out? We are trying to decide on subfloor in basement.