Hey, Ryan! I got your note!

Don't worry about the high EC, it's being inflated by the high levels of calcium (a Limestone Quarry Club soil, in other words). I'll adjust amounts accordingly, and I'm giving you hobbyist levels of adjustment--they're not necessarily strictly necessary, but you specified the "best lawn possible" above. I'll try to remember to note where I'm being a bit over-exacting...

Overall? I like this soil. It's more alkaline than I would prefer, but we can work with that. The shortages are easy to rectify, but will take some time since we're fighting Ca. But we'll get there, and this will grow a great lawn (and gardens, but avoid acid-loving plants as they won't flourish no matter what you do).

Sample Depth 4: Six is standard, but I'll simply adjust the numbers.

EC 19.4: Probably more like 12 and a siltier soil. Clay is possible (and some clays have lower ECs), but it really doesn't matter much. Your soil should hold decent water amounts and decent amounts of resources.

pH 8.0: Very high, but not a barrier to a great lawn. We simply over-inflate some other ions so they're not trying to compete with calcium. You can't bring this down easily, and there's no sense in trying.

Organic Matter 3.6%: Right in the Fair range. I wouldn't mind seeing it rise to 5% or so over the course of years, so always mulch mow, feed organically, you know the drill here. It's not an emergency and this number is just fine.

Sulfur 25: Completely normal. S isn't used in huge amounts, but it's used everywhere. You have enough, and we're actually going to add some more.

Phosphorus 192: Pretty close to normal (200), except that your inflated pH is seriously getting in the way of phosphorus solubility and absorption. I'd really rather see you closer to 250...or even higher...but would warn you that if you're near a water course like a river or stream, skip the starter fertilizer. And just get the cheapest starter to fix this. Recommendations below. This is not an emergency and I'm being a little nit-picky here.

Calcium 92%: Sky high, but there's nothing you can do about it. Your soil just has a lot of Ca, and we just have to work with it.

Magnesium 3.1%: As the central chlorophyll atom, Mg is kind of important. While it's nowhere near as bad as it looks, I'd really rather see this around 5-6% in your soil. We use Epsom salt to fix this--just get the cheapest store brand at the grocery store or your local drug store. This fix will take several years; I'm trying not to overload the soil, and also counting on the calcium to dispel some of what I'm adding.

Potassium 1.5%: Again, it's nowhere near as bad as it looks. I tend to be a bit of a potassium hound, so this recommendation is about half nitpicky, half necessary. I'd really like to see 2% here as the floor, and I'd really much rather see the plants not have to fight for the stuff. We use potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) to fix this, which you can get from some garden or landscape stores, or they'll order it for you. Recommendations below. Again, I'm doing this a bit slowly due to the Ca.

Sodium 7 lb/A, 0.12%: Very low, which is great.

Minor Elements: I've a few words about several below, but most of it classifies as nitpicky.

Boron 0.6: Close enough to optimal that I'm content to stay here. It's not worth adjusting even if you're being super-nitpicky.

Most others: Your pH comes into play, particularly with copper. It's OK, but I think Andy should take a look at these. I'm not even going to venture a guess on Cu availability in an environment this alkaline. Manganese is sky high, which is fine, and zinc is high, which is also fine. But you won't be needing those. :-)

Iron 48: Very low for your pH (and very low overall). While a touch nitpicky, your grass will be greener, grow better, photosynthesize better, and be generally healthier with a much higher level of iron. Which is also hard to do in alkaline soils as it binds--hard--so we add it organically and count on the natural cycling to help us out a little bit. We use Milorganite as the easiest and one of the best iron sources. If you used Milo to feed through the year at 20 pounds per thousand square feet per month during the growing season, that would be absolutely perfect.

That can be expensive, so do it whenever you can. That will add 1 pound of iron compounds per thousand square feet per month, or about 0.15 pounds of elemental iron per K per month. Noted below.

Recommendations:

General Feeding (except May and September): Milo to feed through the year at 20 pounds per thousand square feet per month during the growing season.

May 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. Apply 1 pound of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

May 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. Apply 2 pound sof Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

September 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.