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Has the Scott 4 step system worked for you?

8 years ago

I'm in a new home in the Boston suburbs. Hopefully yesterday was the last of the snow. My house sits on about a quarter acre - so about a eight of an acre of lawn to maintain. I thought I would try to learn about taking care of the lawn.

Comments (3)

  • 8 years ago

    My husband used it and it was a waste of money and time. There was no difference in the law and didn't kill any weeds.

  • 8 years ago

    It basically creates an easy way for the average person to have a good lawn.....who usually doesn't have a lot of turf knowledge , and doesn't want to spend a lot of time thinking about it ! :-) It puts everything right in front of you- in a easy to follow program . The fertilizers in the program are not ideal- as they are synthetic, too high in nitrogen , and cause excessive growth ( and mowing) in warm weather.

    truffula thanked Tom
  • 8 years ago

    The Scott's plan does more to make the Scott's employees' boat payments than it does to help your lawn Here's a plan that should work for you.

    Early Spring

    Watch the forsythia plants in your neighborhood. When they start to bloom, apply a preemergent herbicide - one with no fertilizer in it. This application should prevent summer annual weed seeds from taking root in the lawn. The main weed you want to prevent is crabgrass. This is not a weed n feed product. Avoid those always.

    Mid Spring

    In mid April (NOW), spot spray the lawn with something like Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer. This will kill out the perennial, broadleaf weeds like clover.

    Late Spring (Memorial Day)

    Fertilize with a product which is fertilizer only.

    Late Summer (Labor Day)

    Fertilize with a product which is fertilizer only. If your lawn is thin, now is the time to reseed or overseed northern lawns. This early timing gives you a chance to see the new grass and evaluate to see if you need to apply more seed if it is still thin. This is by far the best time of year to seed northern lawns.

    Late Fall

    Wait until your grass stops growing, but it is still green. Then fertilize with a high nitrogen, fast release fertilizer. The purpose of this is to force nutrients into the roots without causing new topgrowth. Then in the spring, your lawn should be one of the first to green up and it will have sufficient nutrients to last until the first feeding in late May.

    Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

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