Nutricote is now called Dynamite. You can find it at Lowe's or Home Depot. 180 last 6 months. That's fine for orchids, because they need a rest break after the summer, but you know that.

Here is the Nutricote orchid food on Amazon. $12.99/lb. Free shipping if you buy two. Nutricote Orchid Food

Edit: It's the 180 day type, which last for 6 months

Here is a photo, I thought there was "orchid" on the bottle.......it was $11.99.

I use so many different fertilizers on my Orchids. If you can get the Nutricote, look for the formula lower in nitrogen. Nitrogen is good during the growth phase, but not later in the summer. It pushes too much green growth which is weak and susceptible to disease.The timed release fertilizers add too much nitrogen.

It is hard to find a balanced fertilizer which is time release. I like to water by hand using liquid fertilizer during the spring/early summer when orchids are making their new growths. I like the Dyna-Gro products.

Always look for fertilizers with micro-nutrients included. Florida water is not very good.

Jane

Mine are doing great on a steady diet of pond water.

Of course that don't help I'd you don't have a pond.

Linda - do you still have those big aquariums? Have you used that wateron the orchids?

When I had orchids, I alternated between liquid bloom fertilizer and Peter's 20-20-20. I never used special orchid fertilizer on them.

I miss my orchids. I accidentally left my mini vanda behind when I left my house and the ones I brought here with me died, so I think my orchid growing days are over.

OK I found the Dynamite 13-13-13 at Lowes. I will try that and see if it is better for the orchids this year. I also have some other orchid fertilzers that I use on the Vandas. Dirtygardener, we do have four very big aquariums, but they are salt water so they would never be able to be used on any plants. I have a sprinkler system for all my flowers including the orchids.

Linda Leaf

you should be able to find florikan (same stuff as dynamite) slow release fertilizer at whatever release rate 6/9/12 months you at nursery supply house. 50 lb bag for about $75

Linda, I didn't remember if your aquariums were salt or fresh, but I remembered they were beautiful! If I were you, I would just spray everything when I feed the vandas. Might as well. Please post some pics of your orchids when they bloom.

Did you mean she should spray her orchids with the water from her saltwater aquarium? If so, that is not a good idea at all due to the salts. However, even with fresh water aquarium or even pond water, I might think twice — due to water molds*, bacteria, fungi that might not bother fish but might affect the orchids. Even the introduction of algae into pots isn’t a good idea as it grows and spreads - it acts as food source for fungus gnats and I’d have to look it up but maybe thrip larvae too. Both of these pests (particularly the larvae) are damaging to orchid roots but the adults act as vector insects spreading disease of all types including viruses from plant to plant. Like I say, I need to research this again but fairly certain but always do your own science based research from university studies, other experts etc.

In addition to the water molds which I forgot to put the names above: Phytophthora and Pythium, there is also the following serious diseases of roots, temps and leaves to be on the watch for —Rhizoctonia; Fusarium; Thielaviopsis; Erwinia; Bacterial Brown Spot/Acidovorax (syn. Pseudomonas); Collar Rot, Southern Blight/Sclerotium; Anthracnose (Colletotrichum and Glomerella); Leaf Spots/Cercosporoids, Guignardia & Phyllosticta & Septoria; Alternaria solani. It is better to prevent through excellent plant culture and use of preventative sprays along with biological fungicides so you don’t have to resort to more toxic and very expensive products to help treat. There aren’t many highly successful curative treatments — sometimes the best treatment is to bag in a plastic bag and dispose. Never compost diseased plant material of any type even if you only think it might have an issue. These diseases don’t compost out and certainly not at the temps provided for in a residential compost pile. Many of these affect both orchids and lots of other plant types from ornamentals to vegetables, fruits, shrubs, perennials, etc. And absolutely you won’t get rid of viruses. Unless you have a highly valuable stud plant worth thousands and thousands, it’s not worth the risk to harm your collection.

See St Augustine Orchid Society for lots of orchid growing information from some of the most reputable long time growers in the country. This link will get your started — https://staugorchidsociety.org/culturepests-diseases.htm