AV?

This may seem a little over the top but I’ll tell you what I’ve done. Every TV location location in the home including above the FP, are power, coax and two CAT6A cables; all cables converge to the media cabinet in our server room (Can. be any convenient/accessible location in the house). Coax and power are minimum to get TV reception, the CAT6A cables permit using them for remote control sensors, future high bandwidth high definition signals from your cable company, video and sound distribution systems etc. if you have a shorter run, you should also consider running two HDMI cables between your TV and central control location.

The above information is very basic and not intended to be a complete AV design statement which is beyond the scope of my answer here.

The box... argh the box. I am hoping these things have only a few short years left.

Pointing is not outdated. There are issues because the cable companies have a monopoly on poorly executed boxes. They vary. There is no rules.

I just cut a hole in the drywall in the bedroom to slide the box partly into the wall. Boxes are often incompatible with RF remotes. RF is the tech that doesn't require line of sight - ie pointing.

So your first project is to see if you will have the same phone company for TV. Then find out if the box has RF capability built in (doubt it) or if you can get your own box with RF (doubt it). Then when that doesn't work, you try to find an add on RF system with its own issues - and see if it is compatible with your box. And note that phone company will change the box in the lifespan of your house......

Buy a smart TV and cut the cord. Cable companies deserve to go bankrupt.

Ok - enough ranting. How big is your box? In my area, the DVR boxes are like 10 inches deep which becomes an issue above the fireplace. Most people prefer to place them in a built in next to fireplace and run a conduit to the TV. Then you have to get an IR repeater. You still point at the the IR sensor. The leading RF to IR system (Next Generation) I used for years. Battery life was an issue as was lag.

You can put the box in a mechanical room but then when it needs to be rebooted - it is a walk. Unless you put in a switched outlet in said mechanical room. That seems like overkill.

Remote booting any device powered by a smart switch is easy.

My AV equipment in the existing house is behind a smoke glass door in the builtins beside the fireplace - with conduit up to the boxes above. It has worked well enough that I don't need an RF thingie. ;-)

With the set up of our new fireplace and that entire wall there is no good spot for the components to go. There is no shelf or nice area for it to sit discreetly. If there was I would just run a the HDMI cable and phone jack behind the wall and done. But to keep it smooth and clean lines we need to stash the box somewhere. I think the tv is the key as mentioned. We need to start looking at smart tv options that would let us hide the box. Good weekend project I suppose! For the poster that asked I believe AV is audio visual.

We have a similar setup. Ran speaker cable, HDMI cable, Cat 6 and an IR transmitter wire to our equipment room where we have the cable dvr, receiver and a Logitech Harmony Hub. When running HDMI, distance matters - the shorter the better, and once you get too long you'll need a much more complicated and expensive setup. But if you can keep the wire to <30ft you'll be fine. Make sure to get one which is in-wall rate, and optimally you'll put it in conduit. The IR transmitter connects to the Harmony Hub and then there's a little dot that you can connect to the bottom of the TV. That's where you point the remote at.

Freeoscar you are correct that HDMI runs should be short. Since our new home is very long and runs from various bedrooms and other tv locations to the server room can easily exceed 100’, I opted for cat6a cables so I can use cat6 to hdmi converters (when not using coax) being fed from the video distribution box/amplifier, plus use other wire pairs for carrying remote control signals.

Not AV but low voltage electrical question. Who has lid for hard wiring for security systems? Is everything moving to wireless?

Yes, everything is going wireless. What is AV????? I must be missing something here....obviously........

Lid? No everything is not going to wireless. Wireless is great for some things and allows manufacturers to have a bigger market. But wireless doesn't give power so everything wireless needs a battery.

By lid - do you mean market share? ELK, Honeywell, HAI

Very few people DIY, so they hire an LV company that uses whatever vendor they prefer.

AV - Audio Video

Sorry auto correct. Who has paid for hard wiring it should say. We are leaning toward not doing that. I also just heard the small holes in the windows for alarms void the warranty for windows.

I'm assuming lid was a typo. Wired is always better - it's more secure, more reliable, and doesn't rely on battery power. Of course if you're putting something in a finished house then not having to open up walls offsets the limitations of wireless which is what makes those systems (like Honeywell Lyric, or a DIY like Simplisafe) attractive. But if are doing new construction, and aren't a DIY type of person, I'd speak with a good local installer and they can advise. If you don't have time for that, in general, you'll want 22/4 and Cat 5A to each of the locations where you'll have a security keypad/screen, with the other end going to the location where you'll have the security panel. I'd also recommend 22/4 to where you'll want the siren and any motion detectors. And of course Cat for any security camera locations you might have. You could also put wire to the windows and doors where you will want security sensors.

was typing that as you posted - yes, most (all?) window warranties will technically void if you drill into them for security sensors, though in reality it is rarely an issue. that said, wireless sensors (which just stick on to the window) continue to get smaller, more reliable and increased battery life so it's not a bad option (it's what we chose).

So the magnet gets screwed to the sash on a double hung window so there really isn't drilling. That being said, it technically can void a window warranty. But not really a big issue. I had several warranty issues without question.

The alternative is visible sensors - your choice. Also wired is a lot cheaper - I think like $2-3 a window - parts only.

David we are being quoted 3k to wire. Then have to pay for install of sensors on top of that. Wireless system is free install. We don’t live in the US and have different providers.

Did the builder wire or put a tube / chase from the TV location to the side of the fireplace? If not, you may want to ask for that so you can keep the PVR in a cabinet / on a shelf next to the fireplace. Harmony makes a remote that you can program yourself and has a radio frequency base station so you would not need line of site to control the PVR, but you need to make sure it is wired. There are solutions, not sure how many are DIY vs hiring an AV company. Like anything, sometimes paying more than you want to get exactly what you want is a good idea long term. But I am an AV guy.

Thanks Davis. Nothing has actually been done yet. We don’t have electrical or low voltage in :)

In this case, I would ask - Where do you want the equipment to be located? You have the option to locate it anywhere you want. I would recommend that you wire as follows - Wire a coax (RG59 Quad cable), Cat 6 & Fiber at the PVR box location. Then run an HDMI (if close enough to the TV), 2 cat 6 and 1 fiber from the PVR location to the TV location and a conduit / tubing (if possible/reasonable). This will give you many options for a few years.

Know that Harmony does not work with all DVR's. When did we start calling them PVR's? Portable?

$3k is crazy but typical LV ripoff. I would ask what that $3k is getting. Running a tiny wire to each door and window on the first floor in a new construction situation is a 1 day low skilled labor job. Sensors included. Daisy chaining groups of windows which is fine.