The 7'2" part of the cooktop wall looks a lot longer the 11' sink wall. It may be skewed due to the photo, but it's worth checking.
Are the wall oven(s) immediately next to the cooktop? If so, how do you plan to protect the side of the oven cabinet?
If the wall oven(s) are on the doubl-sink wall, you don't have enough counter space there.

Question: Is that a full-size dishwasher to the left of the double sink?
I understand that a cabinet maker will be able to do almost any style you want, but I think a simple Shaker style either in a natural sealed finish or a light-colored stain is classic. The color may also be selected with the other furniture finishes in visible adjacent rooms in mind.
When deciding if you want doors or drawers, a combination of doors (cookware, small appliances, mixing bowls, dishes, glasses, pantry, spices and baking supplies) and drawers (flatware, utensils, kitchen towels, plastic storage containers, measuring cups, potholders) is standard.
I like to have a bank or two of drawers for smaller things, and bottom cabinets with roll-out bottom shelves with low sides on heavy-duty tracks for heavier countertop appliances and large pots.
All lower door cabinets normally have a drawer, too. Utensil drawers with dividers encourage neatness. I prefer 24" width for single-door cabinets and 30" width for double-door cabinets. If you have a remaining narrow space among the lower cabinets, use it for cookie sheets and baking trays: 12-15-18" will be enough.
I like upper cabinets to go the ceiling even if I don't have anything to put on the top shelf (may require a stepladder anyway). I like to purchase one extra shelf for the upper cabinets which will hold dishes and glassware so I can have just enough space for stacked dishes to slide into place. All uppers should be drilled for shelf support inserts every 1 1/2 to 2 inches for the most adaptability. I use stainless steel shelf supports which plug into the drilled holes. For symmetry, plan uppers over lowers in the same width.
If you have a tall pantry in your plan, those shelves should be drilled for shelf support adaptability, too. Put tall lightweight items up high (cereal, for example), heavier items in the center shelves, and infrequently needed items on the bottom.
I am not a designer. I am a woman lucky enough to have been able to plan my own kitchens over the years...many years.
Experience counts.

Ask your cabinetmaker to show you pictures of jobs he's done previously that you like. You want him thinking "Great. I made good money on the last one we did like that." The further you stray from the familiar, the higher his risk/learning curve and rates.