The top looks pretty solid.

I know yo don't want to but I'd strip and refinish just the top. I know it's stinky and a bit toxic (but there are less-nasty strippers out there now) but it is worth doing it properly once every ten years or so!

So I'd have to strip / restain then seal? I am not afraid to try things but I worry I'd screw up the color. Any idea what the white area is?

Use Citristrip on the top - apply more like frosting than paint, and cover with plastic to keep it wet for 24 hours. The finish should scrape right off.

To be sure you don't get stripper on any parts you don't want stripped, cover them with plastic before you start.

It looks like the bottom of the table is not finished - you can use that to test stain/finish combinations to get a good match.

I'll think about it... But if I just want to reseal it and I just put a coat of satin over what's already there... can I do that?

"I'll think about it... But if I just want to reseal it and I just put a coat of satin over what's already there... can I do that?"

Sure but that would just make it worse than it is already. The latest buzz term for what you propose is Hack Job. That's a well built table. Do it right or don't do it at all.

Well a decent table that is sealed and does not get worse might be better than me turning it into a hack job by trying to strip and restain it! Thsts my worry!

The problem is finding out what kind of finish is on the table. Some finishes can be spot repaired and some are almost impossible to spot repair. Urethane finishes are a type of plastic and so are very difficult to spot repair.

The following info is from a recognized master finisher:Fixing water marks

So that you don't go away empty handed,I have a suggestion. Borrow a book on refinishing from the library written by Bob Flexner. After reading that book,people will ask your advice,

Mac and I were were writing the same advice at the same time so it must be good.

Known as "blush" due to water infiltrating the finish. Strip and refinish would be the very last resort. I repair these professionally and these have always done the job for me. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-Furniture-White-Ring-Remover-Cloth-2236/202698033?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD24%7CMulti%7CNA%7CPLA%7CAll_Paint%7c71700000032325895%7c58700003835893712%7c92700030694005646&gclid=CjwKCAjw3cPYBRB7EiwAsrc-uen81xHU_X_6TH2_bCEVUs79spn9JkN0MO-sAkJFaPpFzTjLB8jqYxoCRZsQAvD_BwE&dclid=CNrbzfSJs9sCFU45TwodmiAP7Q

It may alter the gloss a bit, but just do the whole table top. It will leave a bit of an oily residue that I remove with Guardsman Furniture Polish. (or you can use Dawn & water, lightly dampening a rag).

Will try.. thanks!

Andre, I had an older oak bathroom vanity that was showing similar wear after several years. The vanity was not high end, but in very good condition. I lightly sanded the gloss, cleaned well with tack cloth, and applied a coat of poly. It looked better than when it was new and still going strong (soon to be replaced, hopefully, when I do a remodel).

I am not a pro, but I think the poly will bring back the golden color of the oak.

I have found that the factory poly finish on a lot of the inexpensive oak pieces is not that sufficient to start with.

I special ordered the white ring remover from Home Depot. When it arrives I will try that first and take it from there thank you...

tuesday_2008 said: "I have found that the factory poly finish on a lot of the inexpensive oak pieces is not that sufficient to start with."

Poly is not a factory finish. It takes too long to cure, can't be easily repaired if there is transit damage, and is too labor intensive. ALL FINISHES ARE NOT POLY! In repairing multiple thousands of pieces of furniture, I have never encountered a single piece that was finished in poly from the factory.

One of the worst refinishing jobs that I had to do was refinish a relatively new table top that the owner had "slapped on some poly" because she didn't like the sheen. By the time I saw it, about 1/4 of it had just peeled off (poor adhesion and incorrect prep) and the rest was a bear to strip. Granted, she put it on way too thick, but it looked terrible and I could have adjusted the sheen with a quick top coat of lacquer or a few minutes with some abrasives.

I agree Bob. That's why when op asked

"I'll think about it... But if I just want to reseal it and I just put a coat of satin over what's already there... can I do that?"

I answered."Sure but that would just make it worse than it is already"

The sign hanging in a furniture repair shop read Labor $25 per hour,$35 if you watch,$45 if you help,$100 if you fixed it before bringing it here.

Ok so if the white ring remover does not work...or it does work but I want to coat with something satin...what is the process...sdand? Then strip or coat with thin coats of what? Poly...laquer???

1. If you are going over what's there, which is probably lacquer, you can buy a brushing lacquer -- Watco and Deft are two common brands available at the hardware stores. Be sure to clean it well before attempting, first detergent and water, then mineral spirits wipe. And if you have ever used Pledge furniture polish you have a big problem. The silicone oil in it will cause most finishes to badly fish eye. Even stripping won't get rid of this problem. Proceed to another step.

2. If you have Pledged, then about the only thing that will work out of the can is shellac. Apply a couple of light coats, preferably sprayed on. You can get bullseye shellac in aerosol.

3. If you want to use Poly, that's fine, but I'd add a barrier coat of DEWAXED shellac, either the Bullseye Aerosol mentioned above or SealCoat brushed on. Bullseye in the can is not dewaxed. Poly won't stick to it well.

4. If you want to strip, use a chemical stripper, clean off all the old finish, sand, stain to desired color and use finish of your choice. If Pledged, they I suggest a coat of SealCoat between stain and first coat of finish.

The white ring remover helped.., probably would have fully worked had I used it a year ago

much better.. if I am going to leave it like this what do you think the best process would be to seal it at this point is there some kind of Polish I should use or should I go the method in the aforementioned post and apply some kind of lacquer or the aerosol and then the poly... If I just try to polish it and eventually it gets worse what would a professional charge to redo the tabletop?

Well I bought some mineral spirits and wipe the table down and oh my God it almost looks new I'm almost tempted just to leave it go with that but I guess the proper thing to do is to apply the water based poly...

Well Folks..more than a year..the table is back to being...ehhh. Recall I had wiped it down with mineral spirits and pretty much left it go. We have not used any polish since either but it was likely polished with pledge at some point...again not for at least a year and never regulary.

So, it time to strip or seal. About half the posts mentioned stripping. I have some concerns and my wife does not like the idea for a variety of reasons including the mess and smell and time without the table. So..that not happening. She'd be happy leaving it go but I do not want it getting worse.

It was bought at 'Just Cabinets' 10 years ago..From the other posts it seems the consensus is that its likley a was water based poly use by manufacturers of cheaper table because it dries quick. If so, it sounds like I can sand lightly and re poly with another water based poly without worry of peeling. Correct?

Is there a huge difference in the MixWax water based Poly and anything else. I am guessing I will have to do this again down the road so unless special ordering something somehow lasts longer, I can get MinWax locally.

Thanks!