Check out our FAQ about stone....

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

• http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2558824/stone-information-and-advice-and-checklists

How do I seal my natural stone countertops?

• http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2767041/how-do-i-seal-my-natural-stone-countertops

Sinks

• What kind of reveal do you want?

• How will the sink be supported? It should not just be attached to the counter...if it is, it will fall eventually (this is installation, but I'm a firm believer in being proactive instead of waiting until the last minute when it may be too late to do something differently)

• Be sure you have the sink template to give them

• Be sure you have the specs for any other "cutout" templates (e.g., cooktops, ranges)

• Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)

Sink Undermount Options (from the Stone Information FAQ linked to above)

There are pros & cons for each type of reveal:

• Positive Reveal. The sink shows; granite cutout is slightly larger than sink
  • Pros: Easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk and can easily wipe it off (it only gets nasty if you leave it there)
  • Cons: Silicone (caulk?) is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

Negative Reveal. The granite overhangs the sink; granite cutout is slightly smaller than the sink

• Pros: You cannot see the gunk buildup or silicone
• Cons:
  • You cannot see the gunk to clean it.
  • Dirty water/food can splash up & under where you cannot see to clean it. It's difficult to see underneath w/o leaning way over & into the sink.
  • Dishes/glasses have been known to break b/c when you lift them out near the edge of the sink the dish hits the stone counter & can break (or, if the dish wins, the counter could chip...but I'm not sure how likely that is).

Zero Reveal or Flush. Sink & granite are flush or even; the granite cutout & sink are the same size

• Pros:
  • Easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk
  • No platform over or under for the gunk to collect

• Cons:
  • More difficult to do perfectly
  • Silicone is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

You will find proponents of all three types of reveals here...but in the end it's what works best for you.

More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's

If you cannot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam

Measuring (from the Stone Information FAQ linked to above):

• Before the templaters get there...

• Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.

• Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.

• Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.

• Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.

• Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.

• Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

• If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them

• Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.

• Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

  Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placement and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

• Factors determining seam placement:

  • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)
  • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available
  • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.
  • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.
  • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -
  • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

The templaters came yesterday. They seemed very knowledgable, The asked a lot of questions about how would like the counters to look. The temple looked to me like it fit perfectly, they looked at my faucet and backlash tile. So far so good, I am going this morning to see it laid out on the stone. Thank Behul for all your information

Teressa:

I'd highly recommend a slight positive sink reveal. It looks great and performs better than the others. I'd also recommend your sink be strapped, not clipped, in place.

The meeting with the fabricator went great. He took a lot time explain how he wanted to do the seams and why.

Joseph, we went with a negative reveal because I did not want the lip of stainless. I did talk to him about strapping the sink.

Nice work. Although I prefer a bit smaller positive reveal, it is the best choice for undermounted sinks. No crud lip as with the negative and no elongated and fraying silicone as with the flush.

Unfortunately not as nice as it looks a few hours I was walking through the kitchen, and realized the peninsula was square but the cabinet was not, once the facing is is done it will protrude past the countertop, the granite company is coming out today to remove it and retemplate it and will cut a new piece from a slab from the same lot.

Finger cross that it all matches as well as it does now.