Started right up on the first time. I didn't make it clear above that this is my first riding mower ever, so I had to study the book to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I'd say driving it is on the order of complexity of driving a Model T Ford - no sweat once you get the hang of it.

Didn't come with a mulching cover so I got one on Amazon. Naturally I had to work on it to get it right since it was evidently for a different model with certain holes in the deck rim that mine didn't have.

Anyway, in the OP I stated it was to go up into the woods and mulch leaves, control undergrowth, but a surprising thing is happening; when I had a number of large trees removed in November, it opened up the back yard to the sun. Other than that, the back yard area was completely barren where their trucks had run during the tree work, and not much had previously grown back there anyway. Then summer hit and the rains came - now I'm looking at almost a fully green backyard and patches of grass are popping up in the previously wooded area.

So, I'm now thinking that I'll just let the Bermuda and crab grass have it and use the rider on it. Its green, you mow it and it looks fine. I no longer care that its not Fescue. All I care about is ground cover and erosion control. But it was still surprising to see all those mixed grasses coming up where I had not seeded in 15 years, plus in the woods which had never been seeded. I was sure I would have to seed it but nature took care of it for me!

I cut my whole yard with it on July 4th. I didn't have a gig that day as I played a show on the day before. I'm getting used to it but I learned about the turnaround with a rider/tractor - there isn't one unless you have zero turn. I guess for a back-and-forth situation you can do a U-turn, skipping a row, then pick it up later. Anyway, results on the 'good' lawn out front were fair to good. Nothing beats a regular lawn mower for a neat job, but it was a hot, humid day and I needed the 'seat time' on this mower. I did my cut-ins with the walk-behind and string trimmer first then made circuits with the rider, following the very irregular shape of my grass areas. I've often wondered why it seems the neighbors with riders and the lawn services seem to make so many trips over the same area - in an oddly-shaped area you have to make many circuits/turnarounds to get everything.

The thing has six speeds and 3rd gear was fast enough for me, keeping the engine at full throttle for mulching. The B&S engine is flawless and has much more than enough power for this application. The trip into the previously-wooded area with new grass was uneventful. I walked it first and picked up a few larger sticks. At some point I will have to get a load of soil and fill in some lows but its not a problem.

All in all, I'm glad I got this mower and when I get the rest of the back lot prepared for it, I expect I will be spending about an hour back there each time. Fuel consumption looks to be fairly good but I think I'll need another 2-gallon can. I am now using only Shell Premium with Startron added in all the OPE.

No oil filter on this one but I guess the way I take care of the oil on my other mowers, its not really needed. I just was working on a 1989 mower that I bought new and has been serving about five different homes in my family since I stopped using it in 1995. Its a 3.5 HP B&S and needed a new carb diaphragm. The walk-behinds I'm using are a 2004 LB 10684 'Insight' w/Tecumseh and a 2007 LB 22271 commercial 'Insight' w/Honda 190 GSV.

Now using Castrol Edge synthetic, 10W-30, which is also what I'll use in the rider. For the really old or worn mowers I work on, I use the same thing but the 'high-mileage' version.

Good for you! You may find you'd like something al little bigger after a while. I had a Toro 32 for years till it died. Now I use a 42" cub...I get done faster!. I hope the cub lasts. I too am good about taking care of them. I actually saw your little guy at my walmart sitting out there all alone...$999 I think. Likely you will need to worry more about rust and things falling apart moreso than the engine. Take it easy with it and it should last.

Yeah, I'm working on the minor rust that came on it from sitting outside at the store. That will be the last rust on it since it stays in the garage. My next project is deciding on how I'm going to get it tilted up so I can clean the deck, change blade, etc.

Because of where I live, I have a very easy way of getting it on the truck if need be - my driveway slopes up from the street but has a flat portion at the bottom. I just back the truck in until the open tailgate comes the closest to the slope, about 8", then the mower will drive right on or be easily pushed on using a 4x4 piece of 3/4" flooring plywood. Basically it would roll on if I released it. :) It could drive off at the same spot or I could back up to the top and use my ramps - I can pull it off the truck by myself, which surprised me the first time I tried it.

BTW, I won't need a bigger one as long as I live here - because of the layout of the areas, which are individually small, small size and maneuverability are more important than cutting width. IOW, it would probably take me longer with a big mower.

I am not sure how well this works with the configuration of the mower and the fact that its a rear Rider. For years I cleaned the underside of the deck on my Toro by driving it up a single car ramp .,just one wheel up on one side ...that was enough for me to get under and service it. Recently I bought a mojack which is greatly simplified things but again I think you'd have to check to make sure this would work with your type of mower..... not that it might tip backwards or something... I also know Harbor Freight sell something that will Jack it up but I personally trusted the Mojack better especially when I'm laying under something that weighs 300+ pounds!