If the US device expects 60 Hz at 120 Vac wall power and doesn't behave nicely with 50 Hz, then the best solution in my opinion is finding a Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) that can operate with a mains supply of 230 Vac at 50 Hz, and generate 120 Vac at 60 Hz. (Often the UPS can deal with significant voltage and frequency fluctuations on the input side, so those limits are of interest. Also, a sinewave generating UPS is needed because one doesn't want the 50 Hz to appear on the output.) A functional benefit would be garage door operation when there is a power failure. A cost penalty would be battery replacement every 3 to 5 years.

Touring the offerings at Provantage, Amazon, Newegg, etc. for the characteristics of UPS's from APC, Tripplite, Eaton, CyberPower, etc. may lead to a match. It is possible that suitable UPS are already available in Australia to deal with imported US equipment. Note that equipment manufactured for the Japanese market will already function with both 50 Hz and 60 Hz, as eastern and wester Japan use different frequencies.

I do not know if UL and CE safety certifications are considered valid in Australia.

If the device will operate at 50 Hz without overheating, then the step-down transformer suggestion by jmm1837 above should be sufficient.

Online UPS are expensive. Doubly-so, if you want them to be able to convert voltage and frequency. They also waste energy. I have a hard time seeing how this would be a cost-effective solution to operating a garage door opener.

A suitable step-down transformer is probably on the order of $100 give or take. That's much more doable. In many cases, the difference between 50Hz and 60Hz is relatively benign. In principle, motors can be affected by changes in frequency; and going from higher to lower frequency is more troublesome. But garage doors have relatively short duty cycles. This (hopefully) means, there'll be enough time for the motor to cool down between uses to avoid any permanent damage.

In general, and this is not applicable to Mick's situation, it is much easier to bring non-US appliances into the US than vice versa. As mentioned before, increasing the frequency to 60Hz is likely less concerning than decreasing it to 50Hz. And doubling the voltage is generally easy to accommodate, as most residential electrical wiring is already a two-phase system. So, most American homes have 240V readily available. You might just have to pull a new circuit from the breaker box.

The only time you'll get in trouble is if you import an appliance that expects 400V three-phase service. Some stoves or electric dryers fall into this category, as they require more power than a normal residential 240V outlet can provide.

Of course, all of this discussion is focused on the engineering side of things. It doesn't talk about regulatory constraints. Building code or electrical testing (e.g. UL or CE listing) could prevent you from legally operating foreign appliances.

Looking at the Operating Manual, one finds:

PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS

Input

........................................

120V AC, 60 Hz. or 18V DC

and

ELECTRICAL CONNECTION

This product has a precision-built electric motor. It should be connected to
a power supply that is 120 volts, AC only (normal household current),
60 Hz. Except with battery pack installed, a substantial voltage
drop will cause a loss of power and the motor will overheat. If your
product does not operate when plugged into an outlet, double-check the
power supply.

This information suggests that one might use the battery pack with a battery charger that operates using the Australian mains voltage/frequency. But this is also an engineering project of dubious conformance with any officially imposed safety requirements.

I might just consider holding off on it until I see if it will be introduced to the Australian market or not.

just sounds like too much of a hassle to try and configure in it's current state of sale.

thank you to those who have commented and took the time to help divulge in information for me.

The voltage part would be simple, though the transformer needs to be large enough to handle 15 amps (this Ryobe thing has outlets on it for use in the garage with accessories). Frequency would be an issue, going from 60Hz to 50Hz. The motor won't like it.

So it has a battery backup? It's a pretty safe bet that the motor is actually a low voltage DC brushless type, not an AC induction type. If that's the case, the mains frequency might not matter.

Here's a thought. If indeed the opener runs on low voltage DC, it must have a power supply to convert the mains voltage to what it needs. Maybe Ryobi (I didn't know they made openers) uses similar power supplies for other opener models. If so, you might be able to get a spare parts 240v/50hZ power supply from another EU/AUS unit of the same brand, and drop it right in in place of the North America supply.

Keep in mind that even if that works, you'd almost certainly void the warranty. Also, when bought as a spare part, the power supply might be expensive. I guess whether it's worth the cost, effort, and warranty loss depends on how badly and how soon you want the opener.

Why not just buy a standard opener available in Aus, and upgrade when (and if) its marketed here?

I’m guessing I’m just a bit impatient.

The thought of killing two birds with one stone idea would be ideal - especially with building a house from scratch, just incorporate it in the build. Then it’s done and dusted.

I guess for now it’s an idea to just put in the bin.

Thanks for everyone’s input and collective thinking. It’s has been really appreciated.

Honestly, the Ryobi opener doesn't really look all that different from the Liftmaster openers that have been on the market in the US for years. They both have rather comparable features.

This might give you more options to look at. But I have no idea whether Liftmaster makes 220V models, either.

This is a very general comment. If you want to modify an appliance and are worried about some sort of liability due to modifications:

1) Stop worrying. If you do the install yourself, you an install anything that you want. You only need UL approval of something if you are going to sell it. This is not an electrical code issue because it plugs in. To those who worry about insurance issues of some sort in case of a fire, you will be protected. You might want to read the fine print in the policy, but insurance does protect people from their own stupidity. That is why it is so costly. A contractor may refuse to install a non-approved piece of equipment. That is normal and expected.

2) If you have a good plan for modifications (some good suggestions above) and you want to have it installed by a contractor or you are an obsessive person and need to have all those kinds of "Ts" crossed and "Is" dotted, you just need to get a PE to look it over and apply the stamp to an approval letter and store it in your fire-resistant box.

I've lived on several continents, and have seldom found it worthwhile bringing appliances from a country with one electrical system to another - exceptions are dual voltage travel hairdryers, laptops and lamps rated 110-240, 50/60hz which just need a change of plug to (even I can change a plug - and have had to do so innumerable times - Canada, the UK, continental Europe and Australia each has different plugs - hrmmph).

If anything more than a simple change of plug is required, I think you're better off just to buy what's available locally - and there are plenty of garage door openers available in Aus. Just not this particular one. I'd keep things simple and just buy something in Aus that has an Aus warranty.