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Help - Olympia Cool Weather Fig

8 years ago
Bought a beautiful Olympia Cool Weather Fig from the farmers market. All was well up until it went into the soil.

I initially thought it was yellowing because of transplant stress. My mother-in-law dug it up a couple days after I planted it and replanted it deeper - so deep it was burying some branches.

Now I believe it’s receiving too much water (in additional to being planted too deep). I’ve removed soil to expose the lower branches and noticed the soil is damp. I’ve instructed the mother-in-law to stop all watering, as the foggy nights/mornings appear to be sufficient to wet the ground.

If anyone has any other suggestions to save this plant, I’d greatly appreciate it. I’ve attached some photos for reference.

Comments (7)

  • 8 years ago
    Moses, thanks for the response! I live in zone 10, so winters never freeze. Given this, do you still suggest reducing the number of basal canes until spring? Also, would I be able to propagate another tree with one of those trimmings?

    You’ve relieved a lot of my anxiety! While I know fig trees are deciduous, I was in utter panic this tree was losing them way too soon and would soon die.
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    James,

    Glad to be able to relieve your anxiety. Fig trees are very tough and adaptable. They want to live and grow...a strong drive.

    Your tree's water needs are not high at this time since active growth has diminished considerably, as all figs everywhere are experiencing now, at summer 's end. Just enough watering to keep the soil from totally drying out is all that's needed. Keep your soil slightly moist, something like birthday cake moisture level (not the icing!). If you take a big handful of soil and squeeze it tightly, there should be no more than a drop of two of water drip off. If no drop(s) come, and when you open your hand the soil just falls apart like sand, the soil is possibly too dry. Let your soil dry out a bit between watering is a good rule of thumb.

    Fig trees seek out water. Their roots are very aggressive. A young tree needs time to grow out its roots. As your tree matures it will find its own water unless you are desert. Where do you garden in your zone 10? Often, natural rainfall is sufficient for a mature, well rooted tree.

    In your zone you will not have winter kill with which to contend. That's great!

    Sorry to be late in my response. Wait until spring to remove the extra basal stems, right at where they emerge from the fig's crown. Do your pruning before the dormant buds begin to swell and break.

    Yes, you can certainly cut the removed growth into 3-4 node sections and root them...easy to do as pie! They root the quickest and easiest in the springtime.

    You may want to stake the remaining stems you have chosen to a more upright position for a couple years. This way they will keep that position as they turn to wood, when they will need no further staking. Fig trees like to sprawl, even creep out horizontally.

    My young Olympia grows more upright on its own than most of my other varieties, which may be peculiar to Olympia fig trees. Nevertheless, it is best to train growth as you desire when it's young and flexible, than try later when wood has built up on it, and will not train easily.

    I know you will enjoy your fig tree, and your upcoming yearly harvests of delicious, homegrown figs. I certainly do mine!

    One last word...The quality and size of fig fruits increases as the tree ages, sometimes unbelievably so. Do not be disappointed if your first couple years of fig harvests do not meet your expectations. Your expectations will b exceeded in time, just be patient.

    Moses

  • 8 years ago

    James - what is your soil like, and is your soil pH OK? From what I can see in the photo it looks like your soil may be loose and well drained, which is what you want. But if the pH is way high or too low, that could be the problem. Your soil, in the photo, does not look waterlogged.

    I agree with most of what Moses says above. Simple transplant shock could be the problem as well.

    However in your zone, your plant should not be going dormant for the year anytime soon. I would expect your plant to start to send out some green leaves and shoots if your weather is staying warm (are you in Miami or southern CA?). If it does so I think it would be ok to remove some of the excess basal shoots at that point rather than waiting till next spring. It would not hurt to wait, either.

  • 8 years ago
    All the tips have been very much appreciated! I’m gardening in zone 10b, in coastal Northern California. Soil PH is 6.5. I’m very much looking forward to see this Olympia grow next spring!
  • 8 years ago

    James,

    Since you are in 10b N.CA, your tree, after a little rest during its adjustment period, may continue growing all winter, although slowly. Just go with the flow. Since you have no severe weather with which to deal, when and if it starts to grow now or later, do the pruning at that time. Remember to stake/ train the trunks in the direction you want then to grow now while they are young and flexible. It may take a couple years or so for the trunks to be rigid enough to discontinue staking.

    Are you aware that there are an endless array of fig varieties to grow because of your climate? Olympia is geared more for colder, damper climates.

    Moses

  • 8 years ago
    While I don’t get harsh winters in San Francisco, I was under the impression the Olympia would still be a good bet since I also do not receive very warm weather. We receive the warmest weather (70s and 80s Fahrenheit)end of September beginning of October. I was worried most other fig varieties would need some hot weather - is this not the case?
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