Crapemyrtles like hot weather. Assuming it's an established tree, it shouldn't be watered every day. At the height of summer I'd water it once a week, and even that might be too much.

I'd stop watering it completely, wait a couple of days, then gently and manually loosen the soil to let some air into the root zone. Start watering again only when the first couple of inches of soil are dry.

Give it a good soaking and wait again until the first couple inches are dry before the next soaking. Don't fertilize as long as the tree is distressed.

I live in SE New Mexico and grow crape myrtles. I would give it a good, deep soaking and let it dry out between waterings. If you just moved in, it may not have been getting enough water on a drip system over the summer. This summer has been brutal and dry. They are tough plants but do need a little love.

That tree is showing signs of underwatering, not overwatering!! Curling, browned edges and the pale spotting are signs of inadequate or inconsistent soil moisture. A good deep soaking is in order. And I would check how your drip system is working as you may need to make some adjustments. A little bit of water delivered frequently does not satisfy moisture needs and results in trees or other plants less tolerant to heat and drought because they will remain surface rooted. Less frequent but more thorough, deep watering is preferred so that the soil surrounding and well below the rootball is fully hydrated. In your climate I don't know how often that should be but I would start at twice a week delivering sufficient watering at each go as described but adjusting duration and frequency as necessary.

It's important to remember that the humidity and usual plentiful summer rainfall that crapes receive in east and southeasern locations is very different from the bone dry hot and arid conditions of the southwest. As are the soil conditions. This is a plant that derives from a semitropical monsoonal climate, not a desert, so heavier, more frequent watering woud be required in NM compared to someplace like Georgia or Virginia.

can you step back and give us a pic of the whole tree and surroundings

Yes, here is a photo of the bush. From what I’ve read online, under watering could cause the brown edges but not the white spots....any ideas what that might be? Thanks again for the advice here.

The white spotting is often associated with inconsistent or irregular watering. It occurs frequently with some trees but is difficult to see on those with green leaves. It shows up much more obviously on those with colored foliage. It is a very common feature on red leaved Japanese maples, as an example.

What direction does it face? That wall will hold and reflect some pretty intense heat. I don't think the drip watering is cutting it. And you need mulch!

Wow, in my climate, crepe myrtles are obequitous, trees or tree-like, and basically impossible to kill. New Mexico is not that far away, but obviously far away from the stand point of rainfall.

Can you show a closeup of the bark? There is a bark scale that has moved into the South. That's probably not your issue, but good to check.

once a leaf is stressed .. or damaged .. then all kinds of secondary issues are possible ....

but the root of the matter is the water issue [see what i did there.. lol] ... solve that.. the other problems disappear .. though leaves do not heal themselves ...

just looking at the whole plant.. it looks to me.. like a rather recent large transplant ... i cant explain why.. it just does ... and i am wondering .. if it was improperly watered since planting.. when you didnt own it ...

watering a tree or shrub.. involves long deep watering.. down thru the root zone.. and then near drying ... and this is problematic.. when they are mixed in with other plants.. that do not need such watering.. especially when the irrigation is tuned to those plants.. and not the 2 to 5 hours hours of watering the transplant might need .. i hope you understand what i mean ....

i also wonder if it was severely pot bound.. and just stabbed in a hole.. without proper root surgery..

up water... see how it does next spring.. but if it continues to under-perform.. just blame the prior owners mistakes.. and get rid of it ...

and then go full steam ahead.. and make you own mistakes ... lifes too short to deal with those created by someone else ...

or just cut the loop and be done with it ...

ken