Do you have "freezing air rushing in"? -- which would indicate leaks -- or are you really saying that when you stand by the windows you feel convection currents of cold air.

new panes on existing frames

feel convection currents of cold air.

Something is wrong with either the insulation work, the window install , or the windows themselves. It could be as as adjusting the Windows, pulling the trim and checking the insulation around the windows. If that does not rectify you are looking at replacing the windows or explority surgery perhaps.

was this always a problem from the beginning or ?

what brand and type of Windows are they?

Vicky, there are air measurement instruments. Either buy, rent or hire someone who has one. In addition, many energy companies offer “energy” audits.

There are three ways air leaks around windows.

There is a gap(s) between the window frame and the building rough opening for the window to the outside.

There are gaps between the sheet rock(wall covering) and the window frame on the interior that allow air from an attic space to leak into the house. This space is usually covered with trim.

There are gaps in the window itself, between the moveable sections and the frames.

Those situations are magnified if there is a negative pressure inside---more pressure outside than inside.

Vicky-

Many utilities have conservation departments which will do an energy audit for a minimal fee, often for free. You should call yours and see what they offer. It might be an easy way to figure out what is going on here.

Until you figure out where the air is rushing in from, you won't know where/how to proceed.

If you cover the entire area around the window with one of those window insulation kits, does it stop the problem??

Have an air leakage test done. (the home is pressurized to detect sources of leaks). Pretty standard in CA when the energy upgrade companies are preparing their pitch.

Most likely #1 in HandyMacs scenarios, infiltrating between window frame and wood framing (rough opening). Frustrating that most new construction continues poor practice in this area.

A blower door test (air leakage test) can help identify where it's coming from and going. As Wow mentions, it's likely exiting through a poorly sealed ceiling/attic. What you feel is a symptom of a larger problem. An Energy Star certification would likely have prevented this issue but you can still have a home performance contractor come in and tighten things up.

can someone recommend a person or a company who can do a test/inspection in indianapolis metro area? the energy company audit was a guy sitting on my couch and giving me a free low pressure shower head

Do you have electric heat or gas heat? Usually these companies will send out a rep to access your home at a reasonable price or none. Call and ask.

If it is single pane glass that is the issue, there are single piece storm windows w/top hinge that hang atop your existing windows that might be worth consideration:

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/388998486549184336/

Possibly a high end window company can explain the current situation......there is also YouTube that might have a leaky window situation video/s that might give you more info; YouTube can be an amazing place to find info.

Vicky-

Sorry you didn’t get better service from your utility. Sounds like they're in a time warp from 30 years ago. Mine does a full assessment with number-crunching and cost estimates. And they know what they're doing....

I searched "Indianapolis Home Performance Contractors" and found these guys.

I don't have an advice to give for your situation but am in the process of building a home now and was very worried about what you describe. I'm anxious anyway but after walking through and seeing the gaps left after framing I went and about about 10 cans of expandable foam and went to town. I walked through the house on the inside and anywhere I could see light coming through I blasted a bead of foam on it. After the windows and exterior doors were installed I went through the same routine.

I wasn't necessarily worried that the insulation crew wouldn't fill the gaps but rather it was that they wouldn't fill ALL of them. I firmly in the camp of "if you want something done right do it yourself." Luckily my builders didn't mind but I did come back and cut out the extra foam that expanded out of the cavities and cleaned up the drips on the floors. Matt Risinger on youtube gave me some great practical tips on what to use and problem areas for those that are building and have some spare time I'd suggest checking his stuff out.

Good luck and I hope you can get your issue resolved quickly and cheaply.

i just want to add that an efficient furnace is meant to run at a low level most of the time, rather than blasting hot air at you, and then turning off. fridges do the same now.

I had drafts so bad around my West facing kitchen window that I ran strips of wide tape down the wall/molding trying to seal it out. When I finally had window replaced, after insulation and before the molding was replaced, we duck taped all around the window. No wind anymore.

Wonder if you could try removing the molding and sealing that space.

Do your neighbors have the same issue?

Well...I'm wondering if it may be time to point out that before one can fix a window "leak", one must first find the source of the "leak"?

When one's knee hurts, band-aids to the arm are no help.

Have someone point a leaf blower or shop vac blower at the window from the outside. Stand inside and try to feel where the breeze is coming from.

Or use the garden hose on full pressure...! :-)

The blower idea can be combined with smoke from incense or some other source to help you track a leak.

I think these are about $30