It's hard to recommend without pictures. I would say TLC (without seeding) can revamp you lawn within a year. Fall is the best time to overseed, but most likely you have spreading grasses like KBG or creeping red fescue that can fill quite a bit of void left by dead weeds. That brings us to the weed issue. The summer annuals will die. Fall is a great time to nuke the perennials. I would blanket spray the entire yard with something like weed b gone max. Two applications, maybe 7-10 days apart. Make sure you fertilize well. At least two applications, now and late fall. It gets cold quick in Minnesota so I think optimal seeding time is close to over. Weed control and fertilization may get you where you need to go (tough to say without pics). Aeration, probably a good idea.

I was going to go off in a different direction, but mishmosh makes a lot of sense. Your seeding window is earlier than the rest of the country. Similarly your "late fall" is earlier than most. For most people we suggest they feed when the grass stops growing but before the first serious frost. Whenever that happens for you, use a high N fast release fertilizer. The idea is to pump the roots with nutrients but not to stimulate new grass growth that will die in the cold. For many people that timing is late November, but for you it might be much sooner. But do fertilize now, too. You can use any organic fertilizer or a fertilizer without additional herbicide in it. Use the spray approach for herbicide as opposed to weed n feed.

If you get the late fall fertilizer down then in the spring your lawn should awaken earlier than most other lawns and practically leap out of the ground by mid April. Do not fertilize again until late May. But in mid April you can spray the new broadleaf weeds again. There should be a LOT fewer weeds.

Now is the time to get control of your watering and root depth. If you are not already watering deeply and infrequently, then start that now. More on that at the end.

Also do not be tempted to seed in the spring. Spring seeding is the impetus for a fresh crop of summer annual weeds like crabgrass. But if Mother Nature takes it upon Herself to do lots of watering for you, and you get a lot of weeds, take out what you can in April and leave it alone until late July to early August. Then spot spray those weeds before you overseed in the fall. It is better to have a lawn with mowed weeds than to let bare spots develop.

Weed n feed is not a great idea (for anyone). If you notice, the timing for killing weeds is different than the timing for fertilizing. Furthermore, wnf products are notoriously difficult to apply properly, so most people don't get any herbicide effect at all.

Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.