socks, thanks. I am going to give it a try. I just hope he uses the litter box because I have mostly carpet in my house. He will need to really adjust but I think as the weather gets colder he will be more likely to want to come in. I let him in for a bit yesterday but left the back door open so he wouldn't feel trapped. He rubbed on a few things and sniffed around and then went out the door. He heard a car and I think he might have thought it was the neighbors returning home.

Sounds like a good start. You might put out a litter box now to see if he would use it. Not using a litter box would be a deal-breaker for me too. He would also maybe like a cardboard scratcher. If he comes in, get a couple of them to keep him from scratching your furniture.

Thanks socks. I am going to put out the litter box for starters and put him in it and see what he does. Good idea with the scratchers, I was going to cover my sofa with a slipcover if he makes it past the litter box test, but scratchers would be good, I see them on craigslist all the time.

I think if you feed him and continue letting him in the house he will claim you as his caretaker. I've taken in 2 outdoor stray/abandoned cats the past 2 years and neither had a problem using the litter box. One cat prefers to go outside to do his business on nice days and he has never had an accident in the house. If you can see where your cat goes outside, scoop up a little bit of his poop and place it in the litter box. He'll know what the box is for.

Some cats love being indoors and may become hesitant to go outside much. Others, like my Maine Coon, love being outside, yet wants to come inside to sleep & eat. He'd stay out at night if I let him but we have too many predators.

If you have no other cats or dogs that scare him, I think he'll settle into your home with no problems. But, it's still worth having a vet check-up and also to make sure he's neutered, and if he's not, check to see if your state/county offers low cost spay/neuter. I was able to have a male cat neutered for $40 thru such a program. (Not all vets are signed up for the program)

He's probably not picky about food, canned or soft will work, but try to buy the highest quality your budget will allow. If he's older, canned food may be easier for him to eat and the addition moisture will give him beneficial hydration. For scratching posts, also consider an upright, sisal wrapped post. And if he's a big cat, the taller the better.

Thank you for helping this cat!

annztoo, thanks for telling your experience with abandoned cats, and for the suggestions. I never thought I could understand cats but I think I could get the hang of it. This cat is at least 10 years old and I think he will enjoy a rest where he doesn't have to be on high alert outside. He came and sat on the couch with me today and seemed to be enjoying it, then went back outside to his peoples house that moved away, back to their garage I'm sure. I thought if I have him come over every day he will eventually think of it as his home before it gets too cold outside. I haven't seen the sisal wrapped posts before, I will take a look at those. I haven't even looked to see if he is neutered, lol. Will have to do that! I agree with the food, its the same as us humans eating good quality food, it effects our health a lot. He seems to be a very smart cat, he's a real survivor and I would like to see him finally get a home other than a garage.

It would really be best if you could confine him to a room with the liter box in it to help him get use to using it. Such as a utility room or bathroom. It usually only takes a few days, cats are pretty smart.

With all due respect, Mimi, that confinement might make the cat shy of ever entering the house again for fear of being entrapped. He has been a free ranging cat, and such a lockup would probably be frightening.

I guess so far so good, I have to coax the cat into the house, then I feed him and he even sits on the sofa for a while and I pet him, but then hes ready to go out. At this point he seems just as comfy in his garage hideaway and outside as in my house, but it hasn't gotten really cold yet. I am glad I am getting a head start on this so I can get him used to a house before winter hits. I found out from the people that left him that they never let him in their house and they did not provide a litter box for him. This has been for eight years. He is very affectionate though and lets me brush him.

Sounds like things are going well katrina. Of course, his garage hideaway setup may change quickly if someone else moves into the vacant house, so it's good that he's adjusting so well to yours.

I still think you should consider having a vet, or someone knowledgeable, check to see if it's a 'he' and if he's been neutered. If he needs to be neutered it's best to get that out of the way sooner than later. Best to get those male hormones out of his system before he starts living in your home overnight.

FYI, if he/she was ever trapped and neutered/spayed and released, the tip of the right ear would be clipped.

annztoo, My daughter has a dog grooming business and she came over to look him over, he is neutered and has no fleas thank goodness, and she said he is very healthy so that's good. I still haven't gotten him to use a litter box, he is so used to going outside. I am thinking about putting a cat door going into my garage so he has some protection when he is outside. Yesterday I didn't have to do any coaxing to get him over, I just called him and he came running. I am thinking whatever food they had for him in the garage ran out and it clicked that I am the one feeding him now.

I don't think the litter box will be a concern. As he spends more time in the house, and the weather turns bad, he'll start using the box. Just have it in a place he can easily find it.

The cat door is a good idea, especially for times when you may not be home.

Yes, I was also thinking I can keep food and water in the garage as well. Hopefully it doesn't attract a raccoon, but I live in the middle of a neighborhood, not a lot of wildlife around.

It was heart warming to read your thread Katrina. Seniors can have a real hard time finding new digs, I suspect he knows you’re home now. In regards to your idea about feeding in the garage, I would refrain as it’s not just the raccoons who would be interested in the kibble.

lukkirish, I have thought about that, I don't want random animals in my garage, but then my neighbors were doing it and didn't have any other critters getting in. The cat door they have on their door is just 5.5 by 6.5, I think that's a small size. Don't know if a racoon could squeeze in there but I wouldn't doubt it. I find that cats adjusting doesn't make continuous progress. Today the cat just wanted to get fed and then go outside right after. Must be big adventures out there. I got him some toys but so far no interest. I don't expect seniors to be too playful though.

Decide if you want a kitten or a full-grown cat. Kittens are adorably tempting, but be honest with yourself about whether you'll be able to match that energy level, and handle that level of responsibility. Shelters are full of loving adult cats who have a much harder time getting adopted. An adult cat will be calmer and quieter than a kitten, but may also have behavioral issues from its early life. Adult cats may also have medical conditions you'll have to address sooner than you would with a kitten. Also, kittens often scratch very painfully; Decide if you want that.

Consider medical concerns that may come with a specific cat. If you have your eye on one cat, in particular, ask about its medical history to see if it requires any long-term care. Would you be able to afford this cat's medical needs?

Even if the cat is healthy, consider its breed. Purebred cats of different breeds can have their own genetic problems to overcome. For example, flat-faced cats like Manx and Scottish folds often develop breathing problems.

Purebred cats are more likely to have genetic medical problems than non-pedigreed cats.

Consider the amount of time you have for a cat. While a cat doesn't need daily walking like a dog, don't be fooled into thinking that cats and kittens aren't a time commitment. They're still active pets that need a lot of play, and affectionate companions who demand attention. You'll also spend time cleaning the litter box and giving the cat structured meals.

The average lifespan of an indoor cat is 13-17 years, so be aware that you're making a long-term commitment to a new family member.

Calculate whether you can afford a cat. The one-time purchase fee for a cat can range from $45 for a shelter adoption to several hundred dollars for a purebred cat. Beyond that, though, you'll have to pay for food, litter, toys, and regular medical expenses. The ASPCA estimates that in the first year of owning a cat, you will likely spend about $1,035 on it. (That amount goes down after you've bought the major equipment and had your initial medical procedures.)

Consider adopting a cat from an animal shelter. The cost is minimal considering what you get: a fully vaccinated, health examined, and spayed or neutered cat.Any “free” cat is ultimately going to cost you those things down the line, if you're a responsible cat owner.

Encourage the cat to use a litter box.Most cats will prefer the litter box to other parts of the house because of the texture of the litter. But, there are still steps you need to take to make sure you're offering the litter box as the best place to use the bathroom.

Place the box in a quiet spot where the cat won’t be bothered by people, dogs, or loud noises.

To keep the litter box clean, make sure you scoop the litter daily, and clean the box weekly. You should also replace or refresh the litter at least once a week.

Provide enough litter boxes for more than one cat. If you have 2 cats, you need 3 litter boxes in different areas of the home. One cat might try to intimidate a less dominate cat away from using a single box.

Make the litter box a comfortable place. Don't frighten or startle your cat when it's using the box, or it may form a bad association with the box and start avoiding it. Buy a large box, even if you have to spend a little money on it. Cats are more comfortable in a larger (in area, not height) box.

Don’t switch brands of litter on your cat, because cats don’t like sudden change. Switching from a clay litter to a scoopable clumping type of litter or vice versa might upset the cat so much it stops using the box.

Don’t use heavily scented litters that might deter a cat from litter box use.

Take young or old cats needs into consideration. Keep in mind that kittens and older cats with arthritis or other health problems may have problems getting in and out of a box that's too tall. Use low-height boxes in an easily accessible area for kittens and cats with special needs, or buy an adjustable litter box.

Provide the cat with a scratching post. Scratching is a normal part of cat behavior, and there's no way you can train it out of them. If your cat still has its claws, he'll need one or two scratching posts to keep him from scratching up furniture, woodwork, and so on. By providing a post, you allow the cat to indulge in normal, healthy behavior.

Discourage the cat from exploring forbidden surfaces. Cats are curious, and will jump on counters or other places you'd like them to steer clear of. Scat mats, a perfectly timed mist of water from a spray bottle, or even a stern “no” can correct this behavior. With time and patience, you can teach your cat to stay away from your protected areas.

You can also use a rattle can (an empty soda can filled with a few pebbles and the opening taped over). Toss it gently on the ground to scare a cat away from forbidden surfaces. DO NOT throw the can at the cat, for that may harm your cat.

Consider using feline pheromone products. These products, which fill the air with calming synthetic pheromones, come as sprays or diffusers that plug into electrical outlets. They can help resolve litter box or scratching issues, and have also been proven to calm stressed or anxious cats.

Decide what type of food to feed your cat. Cat food comes in a vast array of types: dry food, semi-moist, and canned are the common types. Dry food is easily and efficiently stored, but cats go wild for the taste of semi-moist and canned foods. The latter types can add more fluid to the cat’s diet than dry foods. In general, food type مبل بابل comes down to owner preference.

Occasionally, a cat with a medical condition might need one type over another. Consult your veterinarian for recommendations.

Choose a good brand of cat food. Like other animals, cats have some specific nutritional needs. They are "obligate carnivores," which means they need animal proteins to avoid severe health consequences. Ask your vet for suggestions about a good quality food. Cheaper products may not provide enough nutrition to keep your cat happy and healthy.

Look for cat foods that list large amounts of animal meat like beef, chicken, turkey, or fish.

Also look for important amino acids like taurine and arginine and fatty acids like arachidonic and linoleic acid.

Avoid feeding your cat human foods unless you have cleared the food with your veterinarian. Some human foods can make a cat severely sick or are even toxic to cats (e.g., chocolate).

Follow your cat food's suggested feeding guide. In general, cats are fed according to age, weight and activity levels. They prefer to eat frequent, small meals throughout the day.

Ask your vet for recommendations on what and how to feed your cat if you have any reservations.

Don't overfeed your cat. Follow your veterinarian's recommendations closely and make sure your cat gets plenty of exercise, as obesity is one of the biggest health issues facing cats today. Obese cats are more likely to develop diabetes when they approach middle age. Extra weight also contributes to arthritis, heart disease, and other health problems in cats.

Brush your cat depending on it's coat needs. You may think that because cats seem to groom themselves, you don't need to brush them. But you do need to brush long-hair cats several times a week and short-hair cats weekly. This will help reduce shedding in your home and also help the cat avoid the dreaded hairballs.

For cats that tend to shed (long-haired ones especially), use a comb that has fine strands of metal. This gets deep into the undercoat and eliminates shedding.

Check the cat for skin conditions as you brush. Be on the lookout for any fleas or other parasites, and for any unusual redness, lumps, bumps, or other skin problems. If you see anything suspicious, let your veterinarian know and ask for advice on how you should take care of it.

Schedule yearly vet visits.[18] Just like any member of the family, a cat needs regular medical visits. Unlike human children, cats can't let us know when they're not feeling well. They rely on their humans to take them to a veterinarian for regular medical examinations to keep them healthy. It is important that a cat sees a vet at least once a year, for a physical check-up: teeth, ears, eyes, heart, booster vaccinations, and deflea/deworm treatments. All cat owners should consider getting their pet vaccinated against the following: feline infectious enteritis (FIE), cat ‘flu and feline leukemia virus (FeLV). All can kill cats if they become infected and so it is important to protect your pet. You may also find that a cattery will not accept your pet, should you need their services, without proof of these and potentially other vaccinations. Your vet can advise exactly what vaccinations are required for your pet. If you are at all concerned about your cat’s health or behaviour you should see your vet as soon as possible.

mahdiuri - thank you for such a comprehensive response. My choice was either to take the cat to a shelter or take him in, but if I was to make the choice for a pet your list would be very helpful in making the initial choice. I don't think the abandoned cat in my neighborhood could be re-homed being 13 years old, and an outdoor cat. To my surprise he is adjusting fairly well.

katrina,

So glad to hear things are working out for you and the cat. It takes time for a pet to adjust to its new surrounding and for the human to accept (and love) the personality of the pet. By next spring I think you'll be surprised at the new bond between you and the cat.