Do you have an irrigation system?

No, no irrigation system. Thank you for replying. I am so hoping to hear from folks to at least know I am not alone in this struggle. And it is a struggle.

I’d say that’s your first step. I live front range too and it’s just so hard to water consistently and deeply enough without one.

Then look for native grass. Home Depot actually sells a “Colorado blend” grass seed. Start this fall by weeding, raking up thatch and thinning out the grass (use a heavy tined rake), topsoil, thick layer of native seed blend, then more topsoil/compost blend.

Hello. Thank you for your response. Let me clarify. I don't have an irrigation system, but the lawn space is only 400sq feet. And it gets plenty of water. Where we are, it has received a lot of rain. But that is my issue. I am now overrun with weeds, broadleaf specifically. And I mean it came on like a roar. In large part due to the water it receives. But also the clover that returned nitrogen to the soil has likely created a perfect storm. I guess I could try and use chemical to eradicate everything. But I don't know how, or if this theright approach. Am really in a quandary.

One of the problems with a full clover lawn is you cannot use the typical Weed-b-Gon to kill the other weeds. Here is some general guidance, summarized by me over years of reading lawn forums.

Basics of Lawn Care

After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around, but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct.

1. Watering
Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.

You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week.

2. Mowing
Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush.

3. Fertilizing
Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything). Your first application of chemical fertilizer should go down at the end of spring - Memorial Day is easy to remember. The next app goes down the end of summer (Labor Day). The last app goes down the end of autumn (Thanksgiving or so). The last app should go down after the grass has stopped growing but before the frost hits.

At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.