you could do a dark blue or go bold with red

You should just use a very pretty rich white shade for a classic look. I would enjoy a pop of color, but would keep it in the landscaping, or the front door perhaps? Reds tend to fade to pink in short time. If you can't find a white shade, I would look for something that is a creamy white. A pretty yellow tone is always very classic with the gray tones you have. This might give you some ideas too: https://www.upsidetosmartside.com/blog/fresh-color-palettes-for-a-gray-or-black-roof/

Redsilver when you say “rich white” can you give example in SW paints?
That’s the brand builder uses.

Go to an SW store, buy a few samples, get some mat board and test. WITH your stone sample and a a hunk of roof shingle. Take all right out to the home site. You are going white, you just don't know which. Neither do we as we are not there : ) Start with SW "Pure White". Stay away from too yellow an undertone, or you will turn the roof "blue".

Jan Moyer are you suggesting pure white because there are no undertones? Thank you for your valuable advice!

7006 SW Extra White Might be what you are looking for.https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family#/color/7551 Tho Greek Villa could really be a nice blend. Keep in mind that any hue looks much lighter outside, and you don't want a chalky white, but one that has depth, I guess is the word. Sorry for the delay in responding..

Redsilver I want to avoid any white that would make the roof look blue. Since I see blue undertones in the roof shingles ( which I don’t like!)
What undertones do I look for ?

Are you seeing blue in the lighter shades of the speckled shingles? I can't say for sure on the computer screen. I do know, that most pure whites will have a blue sheen to them. For that reason, perhaps you really need another color than a 'pure white'. You certainly do not need a white paint, that has any blue toned dye added to the recipe by the paint store. That would be one way to eliminate some of the white shades you may be studying. I think you would go with a white that has some warm undertones. This color called "ceiling bright white" by SW 7007 I think is free of undertones and may work well on your trim. It really is designed to blend nicely with ANY color on walls/floors, and it may be the best for someone wanting to avoid BLUE encouragement.https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/west-elm-collection Go thru the whites in this grid and see if you find something that would work better with your roof and stone. Likely you may find that SW 7666, Fleur de Sol is very very nice !! If none are appealing to you, finding that silver gray color tone may work very well for you rather than white and bring out the gray in the roof too.

Red Silver very helpful. I am hoping someone at the store will be able to help me eliminate ANY white with blue undertones! Thanks again !

Redsilver and YES I see light blue in the roof which I don’t like! Ugh! “Duel gray” is the wrong name for this color.

Jan. Will absolutely not make the the same mistake I did with the roof. We were in the builders office and were pressed to make a decision on the spot. Never encouraged to take samples to the site etc. I wanted a medium dark grey leaning to charcoal and to see what we ended up with is so disappointing. I’ve discovered it’s more important to make decisions in this build that is most convenient for the builder. Learning curve has been huge. Will no longer be “rushed” into decisions. I will heed all the pros here advice. The roof issue has taken away so much joy for me in this build. I had a vision that has had the brakes applied because of this choice of materials. Now we signed off on it, so shame on us, but we have had no direction from
this builder. We clearly made a poor choice on shingles and builder.

Celeste,

Pro's are routinely yelled at here for saying " Get design help!!!" Usually accompanied by " not everyone can afford design help"

To which WE say.............almost nobody can "afford" NOT having the pro help. The regrets become either a disappointing thing one is stuck with, or a big expense to correct.

The builder and GC are always going to rush you. The faster you close, the more profitable the project!! From beginning to end, a pro can keep you on track, help you realize your vision in a cohesive way. He or she is also the BIG buffer of that stressing rush, your eyes and eyes all through the process in the best case scenario. At the VERY least, well through the selection process!! So......."we" shall say it again. Get that help, and rarely will it be an employee of the GC or the builder. Those are the "sales associates" employed to speed/ease the process, for the GC or the builder. . Believe it. .....we beg you please believe it.

Jan. Thanks. How right you are.

Also look at the LRV of the color. The higher the number the more light will be reflected and appear to seem bright to the eye. I used BM Simply White and it was just too bright for my sunny California location. I painted over it after about a week.

Emma
What is LRV? We are in NC north of Charlotte. Front of house is south facing. Very bright! Yes bright white would be blinding!
Sorry you had to repaint. I’d like to reroof

IF the roof is asphalt, and you are in NC...you will be re roofing likely sooner than you expect given the nearby treeline and the natural weather patterns ..........Plan all exterior colors based on the new roof. Likely it will blend in just fine. You just do not need a speckled roof. Those speckled roofs are FINE on monotone homes, but when you have varying exterior surfaces as you plan, SPECKLES are the last thing you need. It's like, WHY do people put a 1/2 or 3/4 inch speckled granite on their kitchen counters and THAN go and put 1/4 or 1 inch by 1/4inch glass tiles with 5 different hues AND grout lines on their backsplash, with a busy grained stained wood...Who wins that visual war? The mole, or the freckles??? LOL

I think that is why folks are (albeit foooolishly)going to painted cabinets. People. Painted cabinets are a PAIN! Woodgrain is beautiful and will last 2 decades if cared for. Find you some nice calm countertop pattern and a small variation in pattern or solid backsplash and return to the woodgrain with a WATER PROOF/RESISTANT sealer, NOT a lacquer Furniture in your Den/Bedroom clear coat.....so enough rant.

Your roof will be cooler for your attic than a black roof, so there is that. Just pick the colors variety conservatively on your home and in time, the roof will be replaced, with a non speckled asphalt shingle pattern. :D

Redsilver thankfully I have done a much better job with interior finishes.
This roof though...ugh
Hard lesson to learn.
I am hiring a designer to help with exterior paint selections. Have her review what I am doing on the interior to assure I am not making any other expensive mistakes.

An ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure.

And my new reminder to new homeowners remains this: Due definitely! without delay, find the best BEST termite specialist and get that treatment or barrier started asap. With those trees, you will need to be very diligent to protect your beautiful home. Use hard woods in your home trim even, not fingerjoint paintgrade.. Generally that means "stain grade", even if you plan to paint it. Especially around the windows, and floor and if you do crown molding at the ceilings.

Do Borate treat the studs and rafters, if you can before they are installed. If you have peer and beam foundation, have that barrier installed AFTER the dirt is in place,and not at risk of disruption by scaffolding, etc...and before you do landscaping.

Keep your landscaping at minimum, one foot away from your home. Better yet, leave the lawn right up to your foundation and never let the grass grow tall against the wall or foundation, of your house. Never store firewood near you home walls or porches. Keep your landscaping in islands away from your walls, if you enjoy large groups of plantings of woody ornamental shrubs and trees..

The/One of the/ chemical barrier lasts up to 9 years if the ground is not disturbed, on the exterior of your foundation, so this includes your cable or gas lines to the house must be installed first, and your dirt grade settled with no near term construction, planned.

If a tree should die in your back yard, that is mature, likely the roots extend beneath your home in the future...the termites will tunnel thru that root(wood)and have an entry port under your house...so it is important to have your termite specialist visit regularly or to become an expert yourself.

Just don't put this on the 'back burner' for a later date....a decade passes quickly and you want to be ahead of the game. And do not use spray foam insulation on a large scale in your home, it locks in moisture and creates a safe shell of hiding for insects(and MELTS all over everything when exposed to flames of fire, for instance, if you have a mishap at the stove..).

And know that the only food termites crave is ...cellulose. So that will help you determine what type of insulation is going to be the best in your walls, and your attic, and perhaps encourage your family to understand how important this topic is.

Redsilver we are on a raised foundation
Pour in place walls (150 yards of cement) not including slab in basement/garage which Is strictly a workshop for my husband. We do have a conditioned downstairs full bath for the shop and a 15x15 finished storage area for me. My husband is a retired Industrial hygienist specializing in water intrusion, mold, bacteria and VOCs. He also holds a GC Lic (in Ca)
He is extremely conscious of water damage. Unfortunately the builder doesn’t share his concerns. I feel confident in the structural of this property. We have no large trees close to the house. Jack has expressed some
desires ie for rough plumbing and bypassing the exterior
Hose bids so not run through our water filter & softener we are installing (not
the bladder at the pump) plumber said “no one has ever requested that in the 20 years he’s been working, and that’s a great idea! But that’s not how we do it here “ WTH?
Will be hiring a landscaper designer for the yard. Appreciate your advice!
It’s the stupid roof, colors, and stone we are stuck on.

I think maybe the time to change the roof is now, and if the stone was lightened to something a bit less harsh? Your paint options would expand. Depends of course, has the stone been ordered and is it on the site?If the goal here was a bit of contemporary/modern farm, there usually ISN'T much stone on them. If any........certainly not beige as below, but a good visual on the roof tone

Jan Moyer replacing the roof is not in the budget (it’s already been blown since the allotments of the builder were for track home build levels).
We have not ordered the stone. I
I agree, too dark. Would a lighter gray stone be better? We do have the black windows, black eyebrows, black goose neck fixtures. Just thought maybe the black stone would tie in.. but not so much now. I still would prefer a “white” for the siding.
I am now looking for a designer in the lake Norman area to prevent me from more costly mistakes

If that's the case? I'd find a stone with more variation........ideally that would be multi/blue/greens/grays, emphasis on the grays . And it is going to be absolute murder to find. But if the roof is done deal? Better to GO with it. It won't change its "spots" no matter the stone. The more you stare at it, the greener/blue a "gray" it appears.

More variation........ "Blue Ridge......"

Whispering Pines .........

Jan
Would it just add more business with that busy roof?
Here is a gray- blue stone from MSI is this what your suggesting?

Jan
I meant “busyness” here is another pic of the above stone.

I assume it's only at the foundation,.... A long way from the roof. But again, the ONLY way is to back and get some shingles, go take a sample board of the MSI. Look at them together for SOME acknowledgement of your roof tone. Doing that will avoid "busyness" Your interior design help, should ALSO be able to help with that. Either way, stand back a bit when you test at the site. You don't stand two feet away,,,,: )