You need outside mount shades. Mounted to the WALL.

+1. Don't mount to the window or the head jamb as the balances are up there. Do an outside mount.

I think there may be a misunderstanding. I would be creating the mounting surface inside the window frame ... at the same point you would typically attach the mounting brackets for roller shades, blinds etc for an inside mount. Nothing would attach to the window or any part of the window. See photo.

You don't NEED a frame, the window casing itself, is the frame. It mounts at the "ceiling" of that window, or the bit of wood frame around the glass.. Get a pro to install. BTW...... the shades should have been measured for that installation. Or you will have gaps.

I see no issues based on your photo.

agreed ... that would work ... typically. In fact it is how it is meant to mount. Problem is that these are Andersen Narrowline. That 'ceiling' is not wood. It is a vinyl insert housing the balancers beneath it that help control the window. The balancers are in the corners of the 'ceiling' about 5/8" back from the bottom of the moulding ... pretty much right where I would need to screw in. Andersen has confirmed that any attempt to put screws into that ceiling negates the warranty (which is already past) and may make winds non-functional. This is the reason I am looking at making another 'ceiling' over the current one.

Why can’y you just do outside mounts instead of jerry rigging something.

My heavens.. You need outside mount shades or a skilled installer from wherever you orserved the shades Which was before you addressed this issue.

"I would be creating the mounting surface inside the window frame"

"Nothing would attach to the window or any part of the window"

You cannot attach to the head jamb on an Andersen Narrowline Window Frame if that is what you are refering. You two statements contradict each other so it is a bit confusing. As the frame is technically part of the window.

Print your PHOTO. Full Size. Upload it / marked clearly where you believe the SCREWS would go on that photo. Probably not going to happen. Nobody can even figure out what you are attempting

I will re-word my idea. Andersen 200 series Narrowline are so commonI thought responders would know exactly the type of issue I would be facing. The Narrowing contains vinyl jamb liners up the side and across the 'ceiling'. A typical inside mount would require I install the shade brackets into this 'ceiling' and I still want to do this. But because it is a vinyl liner, not wood, and because there are balancers beneath the vinyl, I am not able to screw in directly into the 'ceiling'. I want to create another ceiling overlaid against the vinyl jamb liner, one I can screw into. The idea is to take furring strips or possibly 1/2 x 2 blocks of wood and attach them to the ceiling in the corners where I need to screw in the shade brackets and then screw the brackets into those small blocks of wood. Here is a photo of the area I am referencing. I was to mount to this same spot.

Addressing questions from Pros:

1. we do not care for outside mounting in our situation. I know we can do that and it would be an easy approach ... just do not like the look for our situation.

2. A Pro suggesting I get a Pro is not useful.

Drilling into the vinyl head jamb is not advisable unless you can concretely know that you are not going to impact the balance or any part of the assembly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KvjMG0IAWk

I know this. I acknowledged this in my question. This is the reason I am asking the question I am asking. - which is to create a surface I can drill into.

Thus.......... if you are so smart have at it. : ) Mount your furring strips with L BRACKETS where you will do no damage to the window. Wherever that is. Mount the shade to that, You seem to already know the answer, and you like none of the answers received thus far. : ) So go do it. None of us are sure what you want beyond a permission slip.

ya know ... I had a few folks tell me and seen a few online indicating not to bother posting on the Houzz forum as I would get Pros telling me that I had to leave it to a Pro. Thought I'd give it a shot anyway. Congrats Jan ... you've exceeded. Not only did you do exactly this ... you did it twice. But you went beyond. You repeatedly misunderstood the question then blamed that misunderstanding on the poster while also claiming 'Nobody' and 'None of us' can figure out what I was attempting. 'Nobody'. Guess it's not possible you aren't getting it - has to be someone else's fault and you need to drag others into your ignorance. Then, to finish up, you get angry because the poster did not want to hire a Pro. I feel sorry for other Pros you have lived up to the stereotypical reason as to why one would not want to ask.

Oh ... just to test this I posted the same question worded in the same way to another forum. No issue with people understanding, no 'Pro' telling me I need to hire a pro and nobody attacking me for it.

I said..........as I recall, post a picture of how you wanted to do it. Btw....... I USE a pro ( forty years installing hard and soft treatments) to install every window treatment for my clients, They also MEASURE and we decide mounts and details in advance of any orders. Simply because it avoids an issue such as the one you are facing. I don't let a client do it themselves either, unless they sign they will own the treatment and the window.

I did post a picture ... several postings back. I would think any pro with experience would have come across Andersen Narrowline many many times. It is one of the most extensively used windows by contractors, builders. I mentioned this window at a blinds place and they knew exactly what I was talking about because it comes up often. They suggested an outside mount, which is not acceptable to us and so I set about thinking of a way to inside mount. I just needed to create a flat, drillable surface over top of the existing non-drillable surface. The L brackets would have been screwed into the moulding and then would 'L' underneath to the spot shown on the picture where the mounts are. I would then screw that portion of the L into 2 x 1/2 blocks of wood and I would then be able to mount to those blocks of wood. I posted this hoping that someone here would either verify or point out an issue with this idea I had not considered. 'Use a pro' is neither and not helpful. 'Outside mount' is also not advice as it indicated in my initial post that I did not want to do this ... hence the reason for the post. Geez ... if I wanted to hire a pro or outside mount I wouldn't be here asking. In any case, I received decent feedback on another DIY type forum.