Cherry can certainly be rooted, but you should be aware there is a reason cherry is almost always grafted onto rootstock.

A cherry (and this goes for many different types of fruit trees like apples and pears also) growing on its own roots can grow to be quite big, and will take a long time before it begins fruiting.

There's a reason that it's called a "cherry picker". Because in older times very big cherry trees were common and you would need a cherry picker crane to be able to go up there and harvest them all.

If you want a cherry tree that will grow to be the size of an oak tree (and cherry trees are pretty fast growing trees in the right climate), then go ahead. Have you seen the cherry tree in Owen Rose Garden? That's in the neighborhood of what you're asking for if you grow these rooted cuttings. (Eugene, Oregon)

If you want to be able to harvest cherries in 3 to 4 years, you might consider grafting them onto the appropriate rootstock. Otherwise you're looking at 8 years. And the tree will be pretty big by the time it begins fruiting. Rootstock creates a degree of incompatibility which restricts growth and diverts the tree's energy towards fruit production earlier on in its lifespan.

(This is true of sweet cherry, other cherry species may not naturally grow as big)

As for the timing to plant a cherry tree, in your climate I would plant it before the Summer.

(Because the climate on the West Coast has hot dry Summers where newly planted cherry trees tend to struggle, and you also have relatively mild Winters)

You could plant it now. It will lose its leaves and go into a long dormancy, but will eventually start leafing out around May.

Most big box nurseries usually get their fruit trees in stock in April, and I would say that's probably the most optimal time for planting.

Actually, most nurseries (and big box stores) in the PNW bring in bare root fruit trees in February. Trees will be out of dormancy, will have bloomed and are already in leaf by April/May!!

Klark, I'd prune as soon as the trees are fully dormant (no more leaves) and stick in the ground then. Our soil will remain a moderately warm temp well into January so you will likely get some root development before winter really sets in.

Most sources will instruct one to follow basic cutting propagation procedures (heating mats, misting, humidity tents, etc) but UC Davis indicates hardwood cuttings taken between October and January, treated with IBA, can be direct planted in the ground (November and December listed as preferred months) and have very high rooting percentages. Good luck!!

Thanks socaloly and Pam. I was leaning towards "prune and stick as soon as dormant" to take advantage of the residual warmth in the soil this fall.

My reasons for trying this are many: Its a fun and comparatively easy experiment and learning opportunity, most other gardening work has become too hard on my body. We were really impressed with the fruit quality on 'Tehranivee', and wanted more. My original 'Tehranivee' is on a very dwarfing rootstock, and although it is indeed producing fruit abundantly and early (literally right out of the box) its roots are so weak it can't even hold itself up and I have to stake it. So I wanted to try one on its own roots. Also, I've always wondered if it was possible --and If I have the skills!-- to grow a sweet cherry low and horizontal the way apple trees are often treated, to make harvesting easier. Finally, we heat with wood, and I want to experiment with growing my own firewood - both as normal trees --in case those cherry trees get too darn big!-- and through coppicing, which is an ancient method of producing small diameter wood repeatedly for many years. Also trying this with red oak and will try other species as they present themselves.

The chances of success will probably be much greater if you use rooting hormone.

artinnature,

I hope this fun experiment works for you, although I have to admit I am skeptical of any successful results with cherry. But I am very interested...what other species has it worked for? What was the success rate? I once did get some cherry sticks to callus up beautifully sitting in the garage in bags over the winter, but they failed to produce any roots once I put them in pots in the spring.

I'm sure I'm not the only one to hope for an update from you come spring. Good luck!

In general when plant cuttings callous heavily the calluses should be trimmed off and the cuttings re-stuck. With rooting afterward often then being possible.

nmfruit,

Black Currant, Red Currant and Gooseberry all rooted very easily. I only stuck one or two of each and they all rooted. Cornus sanguinea rooted one out of five as I recall. Several Spirea varieties of the "Bridal Wreath" clan have rooted easily. Willow is of course a no-brainer--don't allow willow branches to lie around on the ground where you don't want willow trees! Now it gets a little foggy because too long ago--I think Lonicera fragrantissima and perhaps Ninebark branches have rooted as well.