Cleaning it super well is the most important first step. Pictures may help with advice.

I had a feeling this would be something that would happen--I think I'll save my pennies and hire a professional. This way I have someone else to blame, when it peels.

I think it is waste of time and money. It eventually wears off. I personaly prefer a sealed concrete floor you can scrub the heck out of if needed and it looks good for its lifetime.

There are steps you have to do through to clean the oil and dirt off of it, and then it requires proper primer and THEN the paint.

You need to use a high solids Epoxy paint. Add pumice to make it slip resistant. I used Rustoleum 9100 Epoxy - it's held up well for 20 years.

Surface must be really clean and dry. Use high-clay content kitty litter on any oil spots and then scrub with TSP (trisodium phosphate). The dry part is where most people fail. Pick the time of year with the lowest humidity and then rent a "torpedo" heater and run it for a day. Now you can resurface with an quality epoxy paint. You will still have to scrub and dry even if you hire some company for the painting part.

I wouldn't consider anything other than one of the dedicated, catalyzed garage floort paints. The Pro's all use mechanical abrasion of the concrete surface. Rent a concrete abraider at the rental center. These look like a floor buffer, but have diamond stones where the brushes would normally be. These machines roughen the surface so that good adhesion is had. They also remove old paint finishes and minor oil spills.

A word of caution: all the catalyzed floor coatings are to some degree temperature sensitive. That means the FLOOR temperature, not just the air. If the required temperature is not reached, the coating will never dry. The RustOleum Epoxy Garage Kits require the floor to be at least 65 degrees. Their more premium coating kits, can go down to 45 degrees, I believe. Do read all the instructions Their premium kits have a citric acid in the kit, and warn that use of other acids will affect the products. All the more reason to use the floor abraiding machines. A bonus is that you are not waiting around for a wet floor to dry, which is one reason the Pro's use them.

Everyone I know who has done epoxy on their garage floor has experienced issues. Believe the concrete must be cured but unused whether DIY or professionally done

We installed 12x12 interlocking tiles from Race Deck. Easily installed, insulating to walk upon, self draining and easy to clean

Any new concrete must have cured for at least 30 days.

I wouldn't consider not physically abrading the concrete. Etching with acid just doesn't hack it. Abarding roughens the surface and gets rid of old finishes and pollutants that might impede adhesion.

When your floor has been refinished buy an "oil drip pan" ($35 @ Walmart/Home Depot) and add kitty litter to it. You'll never have another stain. (Some of us keep the heap running until it dies...17 years and counting.)

I agree with Davids comment.

That would be me, March will be 17 years--Toyota Rav 4

fnmroberts--Beautiful floor and car too!

Teresa - thank you. Our flooring needs are a bit more specific. The car is stored during the winter and sitting on concrete can cause flat spots and absorb moisture from tires. This floor prevents that from happening.

Nice floor but how does it prevent flat spots on tires? The car still weighs the same regardless of what it's sitting on. I'd put it on jack stands if it's stored that long. Just a thought.