I know this pain well. I have killed about three Meyer lemon trees. I also live in WI. It thrives in the summer outside, but gets unhappy when I bring it inside. Same thing happens, it drops its leaves. By February, it is dead.

I thought it was a lack of light. An east window in the winter is probably only a couple hours of light, especially with a covered patio outside. I put one of my trees in a sunny south facing window. It got a flower in January, which was encouraging, but it dropped its leaves and died by February. I read somewhere it may have been too much light?

I am going to watch this thread to see if anyone has a solution, because I haven't yet. This year, I have a lime tree. Doesn't look great, but isn't dropping leaves either.

How's your Meyer doing now? I also fertilized my potted Meyer lemon with the Jobe's and it bloomed like crazy just like yours. I also removed the flowers like you did, but mine were ready to fall off anyway because they fell with just the slightest bump. A lot of the leaves are starting to turn yellow and falling off! Did you figure out what was going on with yours?

Lemon Lime Orange at your service. This is really simple. Outdoors the leaf temperature is equal to the air temperature because of wind and breeze. Indoors the leaf temperature skyrockets because the air is not moving. Your room temperature is 68F but your leaf temperature is actually 95+ in the window. Many of your leaves are misshapen from heat and moisture loss. The problem is the root temperature. If your air temperature is 68F your root temperature will be colder. As water evaporates from the pot it actually cools the soil. Your soil is probably about 65F. The problem is soil temperature, leaf temperature, and air temperature need to be in the zone. Between 54F and 72F transpiration of moisture to the leaves is very low. From 72F to 85F their is a linear relationship with 85F being ideal. You need to heat those roots with a germination heating pad. You need a breeze to cool the leaves. You can buy an infrared thermometer on Amazon for $20 and check your leaf temperature. I think in this case the brown tips are sunburn. The plant knows what to do, leave the fruit and flowers alone. If you want to grow indoors you need to understand VPD, vapor pressure deficit. You want as low a VPD as possible. As leaf temperature increases the VPD skyrockets. Google VPD chart. For fertilizer don't use spikes. The N in spikes moves through the soil quickly. The PK does not and when the roots touch the PK the plant gets zapped. If you are looking for some ideas about growing indoors check out my idea-book. When you see leaves curling like in your photographs they are trying to conserve moisture. Make sure you have any heating vents near the plant turned right off. For fertilizer growscripts are great because feed the top and the bottom. With citrus you have to fertilizer the leaves with a foliar spray. I don't know your light situation but sometimes you need to augment with a grow light.

Lemon Lime Orange zone 8, what is WLD stand for?

Hi Lisa, WLD stands for Winter Leaf Drop. Indoors the primary trigger for most potted citrus is a lack of light and low humidity. A lot of people try to prevent WLD by fiddling with the soil, water, and fertilizer. Growing citrus in the winter is no fun without the sun.