Mikhail - If you search some of the posts by Evan (username = evdesert) in this forum, you will see a nice set of progression photos over time after he newly planted various trees. Granted - he is in the California desert which is obviously a bit different climate than your northern California area, but you can get an idea of the growth habits of the small trees over time as they get established after planting.

For example, here is on thread with his pics of his Tango - [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tango-mandarin-dsvw-vd~3896546?n=51[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tango-mandarin-dsvw-vd~3896546?n=51)

In fact, I think he has a couple Tangos and at least one Gold Nugget among his extensive collection! It looks like per what Ike noted, he lets them grow out some and build up the trunk before considering any shaping.

I have purchased trees from 3 different nurseries and each have different ways of grafting their trees. The trees from Four Winds Nursery have shorter trunks, but yet have full canopies. Trees from Harris Citrus Nursery have very tall trunks, but they are really thin and top heavy. Grafted trees purchased from Lowes which are supplied from Saxon, Becnel and Sons have trunks that are not too short, but not too tall. lol.

The only thing you can do is wait and see how they grow. Each variety of citrus has different growth habits. From what I have read and watched on youtube, you just trim to keep the tree symmetrical as the tree grows. With any tree, as it grows taller, you can trim the bottom branches to get the trunk you desire. I supplement my trees with fish emulsion to encourage growth. I got 18" new of growth on my Eureka lemon tree in 4 months and about the same on my New Zealand Lemonade tree. My other trees didn't grow as much as these two so that tells me that it all depends on the variety of citrus.

I am not crazy about my NZL's shape either as it was an entry level tree so I contacted Four Winds Growers inquiring how to prune it so it would be like their typical premium trees. My tree is growing like a V- shape. I requested it to be in video format so other people would be able to benefit from it as well. A positive response from Aaron Dillon, owner, was received before the holidays (Thanksgiving). I hope he will follow through now that the holidays are over. I have a feeling that my options are limited because of the natural growth habits of the tree which is not the fault of Four Winds Growers. It is a relatively new variety growing here in the US too so I think there is much to learn about this variety. I have not seen online a mature tree to use as a model or other young trees to compare my tree with.

Untie the tree from the stake. The tree needs to blow in the wind, that is how the trunk gets stronger. Keeping it tied up is just making for a weaker tree.

I agree, remove the stake, citrus is very flexible and doe not need staking once the roots are established enough so that they don't pull out of the ground in a strong wind.

Thank you, guys, for your answers.

Jenny, actually most of the Northern California (1 hour away from the Pacific ocean) is the California desert too :) I live in East Contra Costa and 100+ F days with extremely low humidity is quite normal in July and August, and sometimes, September. Sacramento has the same weather.

Denise, Yes, maybe NZLs are just weird trees. I know they are very vigorous and easily reach 15' even on C35. Mine is very one side heavy.

As for the stakes, I just planted this baby trees last month and we can have some heavy winds occasionally. Usually, we have quite winters but just several days ago we had a 35-40 mph wind. I am going to remove them in 3-4 months.

BTW, my Tango has one long branch (you can see it on the pic). It twice longer than other branches. Should I keep it the way it is?

The best thing you can do for such young trees as yours, is leave them alone.. Research has shown that any cuts to such young citrus trees reduces root growth. Your trees will certainly balance out as they grow. Just leave them be.

My NZL is quit unruly. Mine is planted 4 feet below ground in a cavity so that it doesn't get to tall to handle by the time it shapes out nicely. We will see if it works. I do not trim any but the worst place branches. I also break over bad limbs so they don't grow but sill are alive to make food for the rest of the tree.

Steve

Echo Silica. Let them grow and show you where to trim in the future.... 2to 4 years from now. Of course, trim to keep branches from touching the ground,,,, and thin the fruit to 3 to 5 per tree. If you want tall trees, ditch the short stakes and replace with tall ones.... and loosely tie to train the branches as you desire. Good luck... and take a bunch progress pictures !

If you tend to have really high winds, you might consider just loosening your tree ties, so that it can sway a bit, but not break off with high gusts. For that first one, I'd probably try to train the longest branch as the leader.

Dave - so in the case of designating a leader, would you tie that branch "upright" to a stake to train? I have a ST with one branch that shot above the rest like Mikhail's 1st pic, and it seems that training that one on my ST might make sense vs immediate pruning (and then eventually prune it to induce branching). I remember last summer watching those "Citrus University" videos where one of them showed the processing of thousands of grafted trees, where they secured leader branches of the scions against stakes with stapled tie tape.

I would remove the large limb on the tango. It is either a rootstock sucker or a waterspout to close to the graft. Citrus "trees" are not trees. they send up branches Willy nilly as those drop over with age they send up new branches..

My NZL leans hard to the right.

Still sends shoots to the low side such that they have to grow down first.

Steve