Are you doing glass in the uppers?

I would do the latter.

luckyblueeye mostly yes

Are you adding light valance? 108-48-6-36=18. That's 18" before light valance. If your light valance is 2" or even 1 1/2", that leaves you 16"-16 1/2" of height between your countertop & valance. Typical building code will require 18" to combustible within 18" of the range. Even outside of a building code, 16" is pretty low for kettles, coffee makers, etc.

The cook’s kitchen, THANK YOU for the images!! it will help us deciding the height. I like the 33”+15“ look you provided Do you recommend 33”+15”+6” ?

Do you have special large display items for these glass section of cabinets? If not, don't do it. Also, they need to be lighted for max effect. Might be better to hide seldom used items in that tall part of the cabinets?

My diagram shows FULL OVERLAY Cabinets. The faceframes are hidden behind the doors. When doing inset, the faceframes show, and the doors fit inside them. The doors themselves will be 3” SMALLER than the actual cabinet size. A 18”x18” cabinet has a 15”x15” door. That means that you have to do 18” high cabinets to get the look of the 15” high ones above. Or 21” high cabinets to get the better proportioned looking 18” high doors.

And that’s why I’d use 48” high cabinets, with the 45” doors. No stack. And no glass, unless the whole doors are glass. Or, use 9” of crown and 45” doors. Inset is proportioned and designed differently than full overlay.

We have 9 foot ceilings in our kitchen. Going with 33" and 15" and crown molding. All 15" uppers glass, and used for display and storage. Full overlay. I find that to be a nicely balanced look.

I agree with The Cook's Kitchen. I have 42" uppers, and I love the fact that I can have extra shelves in them, which gives me a lot of flexibility. I can store a LOT more in my uppers by grouping like-height items on the same shelf, minimizing wasted space between shelves.