Flood remainder so it will match?????? ): Destressing a few sq ft of new floor to replace that area is just one thing that set's real pros apart from installers that were flipping burgers until they began installing floors.

How recently did it happen? Give it time to dry and it may still lay down enough to not bother you. If it ultimately must be replaced, you can repair just the damaged area rather than replacing the entire floor. I've done it with an oak floor. You just need to cut/chisel out the area of bad boards, making sure to stagger the piece lengths so that the repair isn't as obvious. My original floor was tongue-n-groove oak, so I had replacement pieces cut to spec (thickness and length) and glued them down. My repair is not at all obvious!

It has been a week and a half since the floor was damaged. My biggest concern is that the cupping leaves edges that I have already caught my shoe on, and small slivers of two edges have broken off. If we have to replace some boards, I suppose we could take some from under the stove? I have no idea where we would find matching or similar narrow hard rock maple boards otherwise. Glad your repair turned out well!

I suppose another option would be for you to just sand down the raised edges....

party_music50

I've heard of a salvage/restoration store less than an hour ago, so I guess a road trip might be a good idea. We also need a pair of french doors; maybe we'd get lucky and find both!

I did wonder about sanding the edges down, but would want to wait until the floor is completely dry.

bungalow, good luck with your search! I saved time and phoned my local place first. :)

Well that makes sense! Thanks, you may have saved me a fruitless trip.

At least in my location, there are several outfits that sell flooring made from reclaimed antique wood, e.g. for use in old houses. Obviously, if you have to repair the floor and refinish an area you would lose some of the patina, but I would try to find a place like that for the right board size and type of wood. In Boston, the biggest one is called Longleaf Lumber.

Anyone with a table saw should be able to make you some flooring boards of the right shape and size, getting wood that will match well after it ages requires a bit more knowledge, but not much. Most flooring, especially in older comes was sourced relatively locally-- if you're on the east cost it's probably not western bigleaf maple. Sugar maple (Acer saccaharum), (aka hard maple, white maple, rock maple, many other names) is the most likely choice. Just match the grain and direction and you should be good. It will yellow over the next decade, so start lighter now with any finishes. If you refinish the whole area matching will not be a problem, the surface color on the old maple sands right off.