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sunflowerbk

Engineered vs. solid 5" white oak floors/select vs. character

6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago

We are currently completing gutting and doing all the floors in our Brooklyn house. We are doing site-finished 5" white oak installed over a 3/4" plywood floor that we plan to keep light, and are stuck in 2 areas:


First, whether to get engineered wood; none of the wood would go below grade, and we are probably doing rift and quartersawn, which is stronger than plain sawn. The people at the wood flooring store didn't think that engineered was necessary, and I've read that it can feel fake. We'd do 5/8" thick, so we'd be able to refinish a few times. Our architect recommended 5" to avoid movement.


Second, we're leaning towards rift and quartersawn, but are afraid it'll look too fake. We are also concerned that character grade, with knots (which I love in moderation) will have too much variation.


Would appreciate any opinions or pics of your own jobs!

Comments (10)

  • PRO
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I've never heard rift and quartered as being 'stronger' but in this day and age everyone has an opinion. Perhaps you're referring to being harder. If there is a difference, you won't recognize it.

    "Feel fake." Sure a cheap floating floor can feel fake when walking on it, but that's more to do with no floor preparation.

    R+Q look fake? It's unique. Some love the look while others don't.

    5 1/4" Rift & Qtrd White Oak Character



    4 1/4" Plain Sawn Character White Oak



    More room scene photos

    sunflowerbk thanked Uptown Floors
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Thanks, Uptown Floors!


    What do you recommend for installation - nailing or gluing?


    And, is it worth it to do engineered in my situation in your opinion?

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    5" x 3/4" T&G quarter-sawn oak has integrity in more ways than one.

    sunflowerbk thanked Mark Bischak, Architect
  • PRO
    6 years ago

    In our coastal Virginia (mixed-humid) climate, we find that 3/4" T&G floors up to 3" in width are fairly stable. For widths greater than 3", we recommend engineered flooring to minimize the potential for movement due to seasonal variations in relative humidity. Your climate and the humidity controls in your home may allow for wider widths, but it's worth checking with local flooring contractors before you commit to a wider width.

    sunflowerbk thanked Charles Ross Homes
  • PRO
    6 years ago

    5" and wider needs to glued and nailed if its solid. Here are some of our own photos of Rift & Quartered in Character Grade and also Select Grade. The solution to your problem is to still go with Rift & Quartered but an Unfinished engineered so you can still finish it on site. It sounds like a site finished floor is important to you. :-)



    Educational Plank Flooring Examples · More Info


    sunflowerbk thanked Oak & Broad
  • 6 years ago

    Thank you to all the pros for the great advice!


    Oak and Broad, beautiful photos!


    Should we ask the contractor to glue or nail the engineered wood down instead of float it?

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    sunflowerbk , Short answer. Yes for most installations. Its okay to get more than one expert to come see your project too.

    sunflowerbk thanked Oak & Broad
  • PRO
    6 years ago

    "What do you recommend for installation?"


    A true rift and quartered solid 5 1/4" only needs to be nailed (I don't like staples) providing you have the relative humidity in check in all areas of the dwelling. No need for gluing. That reference comes from plain sawn (regular) hardwoods.


    "Not a professional, but much of the "engineered" hate seems to stem from the past."


    Thanks sprinkles. There are still a good number of 'old schoolers' out there too that only want the real thing.


    Take your time and understand the differences. There can be a lot to know.



    sunflowerbk thanked Uptown Floors
  • 6 years ago

    The hate for engineered in part can trace to a thin top hardwood layer with softwood under. The thin top can dent too easily.