You could also try a wick. Common materials used for wicks include propylene felt strips, tiki torch wicks, fibrous rope, nylon rope, braided polyurethane yarn, mop head strands, cotton rope or even strips of old fabrics and blanket.

Hole is probably too small. But I have a question. Is your container elevated or sitting on the ground? If the latter, I would suggest elevating. A few pieces of flagstone, slate, or pot feet.

Agree with GG, water barriers are quite effective with bamboo, so obviously it doesn't like saturated soils.

Thanks for the ideas. I am especially reminded of the need to elevate the pot. I have learned (and forgotten) this in the past. Other, better drained, pots hav become too wet during the rainy season.

This is a very thick pot. It would be tough to enlarge the hole, or add another.

Mblant, regarding the wick idea...do you mean a wick going out the hole to improve drainage?

If drainage hole is in elevated area as you mentioned, I would rather add some (2 or 3) in lowest areas.

wayne-

You can get masonry bit sets at Harbor Freight or Amazon for cheap. For example, Harbor Freight has a set of 5 bits ranging in size up to 1" and the whole thing costs less than $20. I've drilled out many pots with these. You turn the pot upside down, put some water on the surface you are going to drill, start with a smaller diameter, and work your way up. I've enlarged existing holes and added new ones and have yet to break a pot.

I love the pot. I think I will try it.

Wayne, Yes it will keep the water moving downward like there is more earth underneath, and out of the pot.

It doesn't matter if there is a 3" hole in the bottom of your pot, or a 1/4" hole. When the pot has been watered to beyond the point of saturation and left to drain, the amount of water in the soil is called 'container capacity. A battle between 1/4" and 3" would turn out to be a draw, same amount of water in the soil at container capacity. This also holds true for 1 hole vs 10 holes - same amount of water in the soil at container capacity. Also, if the soil supports perched water, the ht of the PWT in either case would be the same. The only real benefit to having more "hole space" is the pot drains a little faster, but the plant doesn't care if it takes 60 seconds or 6 minutes for the soil to drain. It does matter if the drain hole(s) is/are not in the bottom, though. That can be a serious problem. The bottom of any drain hole in the side of the pot should right on the bottom of the pot to avoid unhealthy issues. The ideal place for the drain hole(s) is through the pot bottom at the pot wall. That way, you can tip the pot with the hole at the lowest point. If you use water-retentive media, simply tipping your pots after a thorough watering will passively eliminate a LOT of excess water from the soil. See A vs B below.

Drilling holes in pots

Masonry bits work fairish for drilling soft clay terra cotta pots, but are not the best choice. The 2 types of drill bits most appropriate for
drilling holes in pots are a diamond core drill for the highly
vitrified (hard material - baked at very high temps - glass, ceramic,
......) pots, and a drill with several names for drilling clay pots
fired at low temps, such as terra cotta. That (carbide) drill is
called a 3-point drill, spear point drill, or a spade drill, seen
here:

For the hard stuff, diamond core drills are best,
though the 3 point drill will drill the hard stuff, too.

You can buy either type at big box stores. They're
not that expensive, and they last a long time if you take care of
them. They are best used with a steady stream of coolant from a
squeeze bottle (contact lens solution bottles work great for this) or
with the work surface barely submerged; that is to say, put the pot upside down
in a tub and fill the tub with water until it just covers the work
surface. If you use a spritzer or squirt bottle, a 50/50 mix of
antifreeze and water is an excellent coolant, and soapy water is
better than plain water but not as good as the antifreeze mix. The
coolant keeps the tool from over-heating, and in doing so, increases
the life of the tool substantially - like triple or quadruple the
number of holes you can drill.

As noted, regular masonry bits are "ok" for drilling terra cotta or
cement (you can make them work), but inappropriate for anything
harder. The right tool makes everything easier.

Al

Never thought of using antifreeze. Cool idea :)) Often I use plumbers putty to make a small dam to hold the coolant usually soapy water. Pointy tip spade bits will break through and the coolant will leak away with my method. But as long as the bit is in constant contact with the material it will slow down the leakage of the coolant. A blob of putty on the exit side is also helpful - if it sticks.