Doubt the gas is bad with the sea foam . However unless you treated the mower gas in the tank some residual gum could have fouled the carb . Try priming the engine with a little fuel in the spark plug hole . If it fires you will know it has spark and fuel . So fuel starvation is the cause .

Are you indicating that it won't crank over? IE turn the key and zip? CLutch pedal down and PTO switch off? You would want to get the battery loadtested if so.

Yes Tom, how do I load test?

Ok I charged battery overnight. I’m getting 12.88

i took fuel fuel filter off n no gas came out. I tried to turn it over while fuel filter was taken apart , out and no fuel came out. So it’s a fuel problem.

whats next?

You should hear an Audible click when you turn the ignition switch . This indicates that the fuel pump solenoid is good . Also you should have a fuse or fusible link in the primary starting circuit if engine is not turning over ?

12 volts seems a little low for a fully charged battery. How are you charging it and where are you measuring the voltage.

I was having a problem with the initial start of my John Deere LT155. I was using starting fluid to get it started initially. Once passed the first start, it started with out problem. (until the next initial start)

About half way through last season, I started adding the prescribed amount of of Automobile Carburetor cleaner to the gas. (Like you use on your car, ie STP, etc) It continued with no change during the rest of the season. It was in the carburetor all winter, and when I tried to start it this spring, It turned over about three times and started up.

While it is too soon to say the the Carburetor cleaner solved the problem, the first start this season seems to indicate it may have.

Thank you all......i Blew compressed air through the fuel line n it started. Alls well

Gdo problem IF that is Garage Door Problem, I still have it. I have been watching if for some month, and there definitely seems the problem is caused by the heat differential across the door. But, I can not determine exactly which parts need to be hot and what parts cool.

Agree with Tom. Replace all the fuel lines. It's inexpensive and relatively easy, and you will have no worry that it'll die again this season when it's as far from your shed as is humanly possible.

I work in a small engine shop and one day my boss handed me a fairly large article about how moving up to the second or third grade of gasoline will eliminate problems caused by ethanol which is organic and will rot just like a piece of fruit and thereby causing most fuel related problems.

Thanks again.....great idea. What do you think of this

https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Inside-Diameter-Length

Interesting John. Do you have a source or a link that you could get?

Wasn’t sure if I should start a new thread......so didn’t. I went to grease the fittings and I’m having a problem with the old dried up grease. Any ideas on how to unclog old dry grease?

I also removed the the gas tank to run new fuel line. Any ideas on how to clean the tank before I replace?

thanks

John,

Even the highest octane gas pump fuels, at least in my area of the US, contain ethanol. So one is left with buying cans of ethanol free fuel in cans.

OP,

Just wipe down the gas tank with a barely damp cloth. No need for anything fancier than that. If you're referring to the interior of the tank because it's dirty, I would be tempted to replace the tank.

You can just use gas or diesel when the tank is out swishing it around and out the fill if it isn't too dirty. Very dirty, use soapy water until it comes clean, rinse and let dry. Grease fittings that are stubborn are more dependent on if the fitting is the issue or blocked by build up in the parts themselves. If the fitting unscrews, do that and soak them in solvent to help loosen the blockage.

To Sofa spud,, As far as gasoline containing ethanol, I can only repeat what the article had to say about the subject. It was a two page article given to me by my boss while I was working in a small engine repair shop. I assumed what the article had to say was correct and not produced by someone with an interest in influencing people one way or the other.

As far as the fuel that comes in a can, I worked at Home Depot in the tool rental section and worked on equipment as part of my job. I can't remember the exact circumstances of someone who was using the fuel in a can product but both myself and my co-working technician found that the fuel was too hot to be in a small engine.

One helpful suggestion to the maintenance of small equipment is to keep the fuel system dry when not in use I don't elevate myself above others but I am a certified Honda small engine technician with over 25 years of experience.

Apparently my zerk fittings do not screw in, you bang them in. Is there a tool to remove And install new ones? Hopefully not very expensive because this will be the only time I’d use it.

thanks

It is really mind boggling regarding studies on fuel and OPE. The organic canned fruit thing was new to me. Interesting on the canned fuel too. I think that many don't use it due to costs. Strangely I had a Briggs classic style w/ the carb on tank that absolutely would not even try to run on the canned stuff the customer had. You'd think one of those would run on half diesel.... Good to have you around John.

John, thank you so much for the advice! All my reading said if you don’t want to have to drain all the fuel out of your equipment to prevent carb gum ups, you have to use fuel with no ethanol in it. Would love to read your article.

The original article was given to my neighbor but it talked about ethanol being organic and as such will rot or spoil as it ages just like an apple. When that happens the ethanol changes its nature and will become almost solid if left long enough. The article also mentioned that a small engine is not what they had in mind when thinking about adding ethanol to fuel. That means automotive use to me. If I see him sometime I will ask if he still has it and if he does will find a way to put the complete article for all to see.

ssewalk1-- Thank you for your comments. I gave the original article to my neighbor but it sounds like I may have to ask if he still has it and then I can get to the particulars of where it is from and from what time frame etc. You and I are both here to help the average Joe with their equipment and that is what is important. Sometimes to get to a goal, small steps are needed and guidance in the right direction necessary. When we have made that journey ourselves it is only prudent that we offer even a small bit of our gained knowledge to others.

Ok I have a follow up question......I apologize if these questions seem simple but I’m green and trying to learn. Trying to save a little money also.....since I had to blow air into the fuel line, does that mine my fuel pump is not doing it’s job n in need of replacement?

I ran ran the tank dry last fall and in between the tank and the fuel filter, the way the fuel line is ran, it’s not all downhill where gravity is lost.

thanks again

Thanks for getting back ........I actually replaced the fuel line, fuel filter ( every other year n spark plug). Put back together and I couldn’t get it to start. This time it was trying to turn over, then I say smoke come out the bottom of the starter.

I looked up up online and it cost $50, which is not bad. im hoping it’s not hard to replace. The tractor is almost 20 yrs old but not a lot of hours. I guess I have to expect problems like this........

Any advice I’d appreciate....... thanks

Could getting the starter wet cause it to malfunction or die? I sprayed an engine degreaser to clean the entire engine. Waited a half hour and ran a hose to remove dirt and grease.

The starter being an electrical component, in Retrospect getting it wet was a bad idea. I ordered a new one on amazon for $50.

I installed new starter today......now I’m really baffled. It still won’t turn over. The flywheel tries to spin, sounds like it’s trying to start but nothing.

Maybe be the new starter is bad? It’s identical to the original. How can I test it?

im charging the battery now because I’m not sure what else to do. I tested battery and got 12.3 volts. Can’t find on the battery the CCA rating. I bought it i think last year, says 8/18 on the sticker.

Okay, you have a lot of things to think about. First when you crank it over does it spin rapidly or maybe sounds like it is struggling? If it is struggling I have found a lot of tractors with the valves not properly set. It's easy to check, just pop the cover off and see if they are loose.

Secondly you have to make sure you have fire to the plug. Squirt some starting fluid, gas, or carb cleaner into the spark plug hole to see if it will pop. If it pops, you have a fuel issue. You need a good supply of fuel to the carb to keep the engine running. In that regard, Is there good clean fresh fuel in the tank? Is it making it to the carb? Pull the line off past the fuel pump and see if it is squirting fuel when cranked over. If it is, then your carb is not allowing the fuel to reach the engine. Clean the carb. Are the head bolts tight? Is the piston moving when engine is turned by hand? How is the compression? It could have a spit valve seat if compression is low. If you are suspecting your battery, you could use jumper cables with a helper battery until the problem is repaired.

Ok this is getting really crazy. Beyond what I can do and I have to wave the white flag and have a professional take over.

i had the battery charge over night. I test battery and it read 13 vdc. It actually got I t to start, cranked right over. A little more than normal amount of smoke came out of exhaust. I smelled, a burning smell. So I shut it off. Waited a few minutes and started it up again. Now the PTO will not engage and a flame came out near exhaust.

Holy crap all I did was basic maintenance, replaced fuel line, and replaced the starter.

Another convoluted update......omg. I wait half hour and try to start it. Turns right over, PTO engages, sounds great and no weird smells. This is so bizarre. I let it run awhile and all seems fine.

Does any any of this make sense?

Any time there are mechanical devices involved, weird things can happen. At least you are curious enough and willing to step into a realm where personal knowledge is limited but there is always someone to help out. I hope your problems are over for a while.

All cleaned up and ready for another season.......not too bad for almost 20 yrs

Come on, those were the pics you took the week after you bought it. Looks very nice!