Tree care after root pruning?

7 years ago

last modified: 7 years ago

Did a bit of root pruning on my potted Eureka tree this afternoon--more extensive than I have done before (removed several thick roots that had J'd, and a little over a half-inch of the fine roots from below and around the sides). I'd say it was about a fifth or fourth of the rootball.

This is the most I've root pruned this tree, and I'm trying to figure out how to best care for it. I have it indoors in a semi-shaded spot to recover. I have a few questions:

1) How wet should I keep the soil? I want to avoid root rot but I also want to keep the tree hydrated as it builds its roots back up. I watered the central root ball well before snipping the roots, and the leaves look very hydrated; after the pot-up I wet the soil enough to keep it moist but not soaking.

2) Is top-pruning a good idea? I'm worried the root removal might cause leaf drop, since there aren't as many roots to supply the number of leaves as before.

3) I didn't have fungicide for the roots--what should I watch for/is there anything I can do to keep the cut roots from becoming infected? I did sterilize the pot and all the soil I used.

4) I moved it from a very rootbound 6-inch pot to an 8-inch pot--would it have been better to keep it the same size?

Lots of questions, but I'm an anxious plant parent right now... :-)

Featured Answer

tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)

7 years ago

If indoors, you should put it in a very bright spot. Outdoors in open shade is better from a light point of view. Indoors semi-shade will be practically equivalent to deep shade.

The plant is top heavy and would definitely topple outside in wind. I suggest two things: Put the pot inside a clay pot to give the base some stability. You could have used a larger pot than 8" but still it would need something to keep it stable. Put a stake for the plant and remove it in a couple of months. Right it is not anchored well and so it needs some support to keep it in place while the roots populate the soil and anchors it better.

I would have chopped the plant considerably. At least you can cut the two top branches at least half. It will produce more branches from the cut point. You do not have much of lower branches and hopefully you it will produce some. Lower branches help to keep the plant more stable and fatten up the trunk faster adding to the stability.

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Comments (7)

0plantqueen0
Original Author
7 years ago

In case it helps......this is the rough size of the tree (around 3 ft) and it's in a larger pot now.
Dee
7 years ago
I have root pruned a 16 year old Meyer lemon last year that was in a 14" pot for over 10 years so you can imagine how bad it was. The pot had no dirt in it other than what just covered the top as I just added more. lol. Anyway, I cut it out of the pot and trimmed a good 2-3" off all over the sides and bottom. I just replanted it into a 20" pot and fertilized afterwards. I didn't do any canopy pruning at the time. Now I wish I had as I didn't get any fruit that year.

In answer to your questions, just keep the tree hydrated and, with spring arriving, the tree should recover nicely. I have read to reduce the canopy when doing a root prune, but don't know how much so can't advice you there. If you don't have root rot, I don't see any reason to use a fungicide.

You did fine. Don't over think growing citrus, but do research as much as you can. I have learned a by doing so. I found a Tintori video showing how he did his. I hope my tree doesn't grow as large as this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lC1LmKHaiUw
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petrushka (7b)
7 years ago
wow! love that lift! interesting that he only shaved a couple of inches of soil around the root ball and may be 4-5" off the bottom. no bare-rooting :)).

looked like lava rock as bottom layer (gravel previously) and some sort of regular potting soil ?

I read before that in Italy they actually do not repot trees of that size, but only topdress.

excellent grafting demo, any chance this can be seen in English? I made sense of it, but it would be nice to understand in full in case he gives some tips.
Dee
7 years ago
Petrushka, I, too, wish there were some captions done in English and I am sure Tintori does things old school. If it ain't broke, why fix it? lol. I have read over and over to not use plant pot shards at the bottom because it raises the water perch levels, but even my grandmother told me to use them. The bad thing about the shards and lava rocks is that both add to the weight of the pot. I couldn't bring my 20" pots inside for the winter if I used them as they are pretty heavy as is.

That lift is an engine hoist. Lucky for me, my husband has one.

There are a few more Tintori videos on youtube and they are quite lengthy. I noticed the topics jump around from spraying pests, pruning, grafting, and repotting trees. I enjoy looking at them and sorta get the gist of them.
bklyn citrus (zone 7B)
7 years ago
If you root prune, take a little off the top too - 20% min
bklyn citrus (zone 7B)
7 years ago
Its assumed your pruning into light indoors /spring outdoors season, you fertilized, freshened soil...ready to go......