Pruning a stem ends creating more branches at the end of the stem. These branches then produce multiple blooms per stem (instead of one) and the blooms' weight, (especially when wet) makes the stem flop. Older stems are more woody/hard and can stand up with less flopping. But once the blooms flop, a few badly flopping stems may bend just too much and may need to be pruned.

Also, Limelight is a huge hydrangea that gets 8-10' so this may not be a good location for it.

Okay. Thanks.

A couple of things:

1. regarding the size. 8’-10’ was exactly what we were looking for for that space. The reality is that if the flowers actually stood up (as it does when it grows throughout the summer until the blooms actually go white) then it would be perfect. The problem is that they collapse and droop - yes when it’s wet - but also when it’s dry.

2. you make some interesting points about the pruning. It was my understanding that you were supposed to prune the Limelight back every winter. Are you saying we shouldn’t prune it?

It get's better with time.... How much are you pruning back in the spring before new stems pop and buds are showing. As the stems get thicker, around the diameter of a thumb, it can support 4 branches on the tips and it wont flop. It just takes time to get those stems to be mature enough to achieve that

When the Rain comes they will come Tumbling Down...regardless of pruning

Seems like pruning encourages larger blooms going by the one at my mother's house and the ones I have planted. I like the larger blooms but I also like to see the plant grow somewhat naturally (I did prune some crossing limbs and wayward ones this year).

At my mother's - this is usually flopping in previous years. It gets a hard pruning every year. This is about 8 to 10 feet tall.

My biggest one has smaller blooms but the shrub is like a small tree. It also does not get all the sun as the above Limelight. Guessing this is 12 to 15 foot tall and wide.

Made me go look....as post bloom, rains, floppers, I looked at the ones the stood straight vert. Maybe it's just the way it's leafed out. 4 stems in a cross fashion. New wood is not ~overly LL long ~ . Eh, maybe that was what created the the much wanted ~vert look~. Short new wood with a bloom on each one. No special pruning this year, just short of pruning all the tops so it was all level and taking about 25% off the length

That’s helpful @a1an. Maybe we’ll try that this year. Dead head and take them down just a tick.

My wife really wants the tree effect. Does anyone know how to achieve that? Is it too late?

John - not this time of the year to prune. Either throw like 2 stakes - LR and tie them stems up to support them vert.

On the tree's, I've bought them as tree forms only ? I wish I had the patience to do a treeform myself from a shrub.

Gardenweb google Hyeds tree formed shrubs. It's been pruned to shape to tree form from shrubform. I like it alot *as one can have loss leaders on branching/shaping/pruning*. Slightly different look through as it's not a single *stem*.

Hi John, a overgrown PG prune to tree form in 2 hrs

Some of the Hys I have prune to tree form

It is easier to do a tree form if you do not mind having multiple stems as leaders (versus a single trunk). You can still end with flopping on a tree form paniculata of course, as seen in hyed's last Vanilla Strawberry Picture, whose blooms flop down towards the lower half of the shrub instead pointing upwards in the upper half.

This post has got me thinking - not that I have put this into thought on what created this. What factors produces a short new stem vs. the more typical 3' new stems on -established- LimeLights.

Hi Luis, VS blooms are VERY HEAVY, here’s a picture before the Rain

The 1st pics of the VS. Pinks not my thang, but's kinda, sorta like a weeping cherry tree in spring

Sorry that my Favorite Hy, PERFORMS every yr ... Never Flops...BEAUTIFUL

Sorry OP. Thread Jack. Can I see a current pic of Firelight in it's color ?

It appears that rain might be coming off the roof and pouring over the plant. Do you have gutters? Even if you have gutters, a heavy rain will pour right over the gutter. If you move it away from the roof line your problem will be solved. I would also suggest you go lighter on the pruning. Hard pruning generates long soft growth and larger blooms which are prone to flopping if you get hard rains. Prune in late winter or very early spring and just shear off the old blooms. This way your retain stronger woody stems.

Tim -

You sorta answered a ? Bloom size aside - I had on my head....I've got some stems with lesser long shoots with blooms which remain upright, even with the heaviest of rains, Others that have long new wood that are floppers.

I literally have been on my ~back~ looking under the canopy at new/ vs old one to have some clarity on which pruning effect had on the 2 said differences !

I dont prune mine (other than for any dead pieces). No flopping During heavy blooms in summer. Even now in late Oct during the rain with a few new blooms.

Hi Jane, when LL are full and and few yrs old and the Rain comes ..They Will Flop

Those LL are beautiful! How do you prune these “properly?” I understand they bloom on new wood, so I pruned them a good bit In late winter. Any help would be appreciated.

I generally plant them where they can grow to their estimated mature size in the plant label or assume 10-12'. That way, I normally do not need to prune much... except for pruning any dead wood zapped during winter or except for deadheading of spent blooms that may still be hanging around... even then, I prefer Mother Nature to do the deadheading. Since LL produces large blooms, it tends to flop after several thunderstorms so that is a reason to minimize pruning. Old wood in the stems makes the stems flop less. Other than that, you could prune stems that cross, you could prune to bring more sunlight into shady areas (this applies more to the tree form or standard Limelights) or you could prune for safety reasons (stems that may cause someone to trip, etc.) For aesthetic reasons, you could also prune stems that for some reason may get very long, compared to all the others around it.

Svalderas, if you prune a lot they will be more likely to flop because it encourages long whippy new growth as the plant tries to quickly replace what you have removed. They don’t need any pruning at all other than to remove any dead wood and any branches that are crossing or rubbing. Most folks will deadhead their plants, aka clipping off old blooms, sometime between fall and when new growth appears, but they typically do really well with virtually no pruning. If you want to prune them for shape or to limb up for tree form, then the more you take off the more likely you will have larger blossoms on long, slim, new stems, and therefore floppiness. Even without any pruning at all they will put on new growth and will bloom profusely as long as they are well sited, but with more older, mature wood, there will likely be less floppiness.

I have the same problem. It is caused by heavy rain spilling out over the gutters.