Pull them and start over. Concrete is a pretty awful choice to begin with. It stains and etches as badly as marble.

I thought the drawer fronts had the ability to be lowered or raised with the little side tool on the drawer itself. That is how you would get a bank of drawer fronts aligned properly. Worth looking at..

I'd reselect a top, get a fabricator in to template and pull the existing. Lesson? Don't order a top over the phone. Most especially don't do this when resources are tight.

What Susan said, the drawer fronts can be adjusted side to side, up and down, and you can also tilt them, all you need is a Phillips screwdriver.

You should have the instructions in the cabinet specs or find them online.

Green Designs also made a very good point, concrete counter tops require maintenance, if not properly maintained you will have issues.

As a last resort try calling Semihandmade to see if they can help. They provide custom fronts for Ikea cabinets.

https://www.houzz.com/pro/semihandmade

Ahhh.....the joys of DIY. One must read every word and every disclaimer of the instruction booklet three times before starting a project.
If the drawer adjustment works, do that for a temporary fix, but prepared to replace the counter in the future once the counter is discolored and stained. $tart $aving now.

What are the ikea fronts made of? (Veneered particleboard vs “shrink wrapped” particleboard vs solid (unlikely).)

If #1, and if others’ suggestion of adjusting the mounting using the amount of “play” built into the system doesn’t work, you might trim (saw) them down and reapply a veneer edge (and then stain and seal it to match).

I have to say, pouring a concrete top is ambitious for those who claim to not be particularly handy. I’m impressed by your braveness.

I hope the solution that Susan and GN Builders said works. I understand the drawers can be adjusted, but 1/4" is a lot of adjustment for drawers.

I too am impressed by your bravery in choosing concrete. Most people with minimal DIY skills get Ikea butcherblock counters and call it good.

You could dismount all the drawer fronts and remount them lower. This would avoid having to cut and is the easiest and lowest cost solution. They'll all sit lower at the bottom kick panel but you'd never notice it.

Another option is to remove the upper drawer fronts, cut the height down and remount them upside down so the cut edge is at the bottom. The small difference in the edge panel width would be hard to notice.

Wow, if that were my countertop I would have someone strong come in and take it away. Don't mess up your nice cabinets to allow that “ thing” to remain.

I'd rip the drawers and doors, then wood tape and stain the cut edge. With the right blade, there will be no chip-out.

I don't understand why you're having this problem. We installed our cabs, added the Fixas to support the counters and put the quartz right on top that No plywood, as the quartz manufacturer assured us there was no need. Yet, we have no issue with the top drawers hitting the counter.

Did you maybe not install the fixa strips?

What am I missing here. Why can't the top be shimmed up with 1/4" or 3/8 plywood. The IKEA drawers normally are already close to 1/4 away from the top of the metal brackets which IS the top of the box . It's not the concrete suppliers faut. The front lip you poured is too thick in relation to the sub base. That needs to be even with the front edge of your top or the lip will hang down on to the cabinet box. Add more underneath.

And not to add insult to injury here but are you sure those cabinets can support the weight of those countertops? At this point since you are DIY I'd say select from the IKEA countertop options....I think they have a laminate that looks concrete like.

I'm trying to imagine keeping white concrete clean. I'd lose the tops now. Sometimes you're "saved" from a bad idea.

Here's a tutorial that might help with adjusting the drawers.

following

Plenty of Ikea kitchens with concrete counters and no problems.

That said, I can't even imagine living with concrete. Looks great the first day, after that...shudder.

If the drawers themselves are clearing the countertop, then new drawer fronts is an option. If not, then your dilemma is ruining the entire kitchen just to save the countertop. I hate to say it but I’m with those that suggest losing the countertop and starting over. Lessons are often earned the hard AND expensive way.

I have never had an issue with counters installed and not allowing the drawers to open and yes Ikea cabinets can supprt stone counters no problem but there are install instructions that you need to follow to the letter when using Ikea cabinets .My question is what were thinking with white concrete and how the heck do you order a counter over the phone. BTW there is no way of just adjusting the top drawer since that will affect how the rest of the drawers or doors fit

" Why can't the top be shimmed up with 1/4" or 3/8 plywood."

Because the 1/2" cement board below the concrete was screwed to the cabinets as the top supplier recommended?

Ok then , because its Ikea the only place to screw it down would be on the top of the sides between the metal cross braces. The cross braces create a gap that you could get a long sawsall blade in and cut the screws. I had to do that on an IKEA vanity when they installed the top off center by one inch and the was no gap on that to get the blade in because their vanities don't use metal cross braces.. As far as cutting the door looks like too much will have to come off and it will be noticeable besides hard to match the finish.

Another option might be to lower everything one hole down and possibly use a different row of screw holes on the slides to play with spacing and have doors hang below cabinet box a bit. This might be able to be done without drilling new holes. It can be done if you drill new holes but is more difficult. Without the exact measurements can't say which way works best..

If lowering the drawers doesn’t work change the drawer configuration to the small one to be on top. U can lower the rails down to where it will open and have the drawer trimmed on the bottom. Or have the lower drawer trimmed on the bottom

Agree with Connie Carbary. It is more typical to have the shallowest drawer on top, deepest drawer on the bottom. That just might make them all fit.

5/8" min underlayment required per mfg instructions. This is typical of most custom installations and most counters with a drop lip.

I'd cut the drawer/door tops or remake.

What's the new back splash clearance to the bottoms of the uppers from the counter top and what kind of range are you installing or is that a sink cabinet?

Thank you for posting this is a good resource for concrete countertop forms.

I think the OP was not recommending this source for concrete countertops.

“Thank you for posting this is a good resource for concrete countertops”

Jeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor - the OP said in her second sentence, “a DIY white concrete countertop mix from ZForm countertops (Would not recommend”.

Thinking outside the box. Call a mason, stonecutter, etc. to see if the edge can be cut. I like your concrete look and hope your DIY works out.

i understand the OP is upset, but failed to read install instructions page 1, paragraph 2 specifically about IKEA. The mfg should just write "make sure form clears" to avoid misunderstandings.

I've never seen anyone install a lip counter that drops over the cabinet face without considering the face, without physically checking.

OP had to remove or move drawers in order to install the counter which is a pretty good clue.

The edge can be cut, but it's messy and not nearly as much a DIY job as cutting the cabinets/doors.

I would consult a kitchen designer and see if they can do anything to help. I'm saying this knowing that you are already over your budget. Concrete material for countertops is not the best choice. There are quartz countertops with concrete look that are a bit more demanding for cleaning and maintaining than polished quartz, but still more convenient than actual concrete. Good luck with your project and hope you make the best of it.

https://www.laminart.com/chalk-white-concrete-5306

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><md>UPDATE: thanks for all the input! We ended up hiring a stone mason and he shaved off a little bit from underneath. In retrospect a totally obvious solution that took me forever to think of! It was dusty work but took maybe two hours. We’re so happy with the final result and almost done with this remodel

So glad it worked for you! Looking good! And I really like the stacked square tile backsplash.

good solution.

just curious as to why you didn't go w/a white quartz?

Wow! That looks great, and I’m glad you figured out an easy (though mess for a minute) solution.