Thanks Morpheus. I went to Lowe’s and got some Bayer Advanced 24 hour grub killer with Dylox. after some reading, I found out you can seed as soon as your lawn dries out after watering it in. I’ll definitely be getting on an annual Grub-EX regimen next spring.

That's perfect and will serve your needs very well. Normally I'd say it's late for seeding but, for patches, you should be able to get away with it just fine. Just mind those areas for weaknesses next summer.

It’s later than I wanted but with two young kids at home my weekends have been tied up. I’m going to be overseeding everything hoping to patch and thicken some thinner spots. We’ve had some pretty warm October’s here in eastern Massachusetta the last few years so I’m hoping it’ll grow in enough.

I’m not a big fan of Japanese beetle traps. They tend to attract even more of them into your yard. After you kill off the ones you already have, as a preventative measure, I would try milky spore. You apply it several times over a year or two. It has worked pretty well for me. Also, if I find them on any of my plants, I pick them off and drop them in a container of soapy water. Dish soap works well. They drown in the water and for every one you take out, that’s hundreds of eggs that won’t be laid in your lawn. By using these two methods, I’ve been able to keep my beetle population down to almost nothing.

I'm a huge fan of JB traps. Just make sure the lawn around them, for at least forty feet, is Death On A Stick to them.

Over the course of 15 years, I've gone from bags-full per season to about a quarter bag per season grand total.

Milky spore was a failure for me, but others seem to have good luck with it, so that may be worth a try. I use GrubEx exclusively at this point.

I'm a titch more aggressive on plants and spray them before the season begins, rendering them toxic to beetles during the season. But they do destroy my roses and the beetles hit just about during the maximum period for those, and I won't have that.

Hi Jon - Our product grubGONE performs well for fall grub control, it has even outperformed the chemicals in studies. It is a biological that specifically targets beetle larvae (ie all types of scarab grubs) in turf and garden/potting soil. Our products are not toxic to pollinators like bees, butterflies, lady bugs, or nematodes.

Here's my June bug trap. Rubbermaid bin with soapy water with a clamp-on light aimed down into the water. This was one night's harvest. The bugs fly toward the reflected light and smack into the water.

I’ve heard this works with stink bugs...I’m going to have to try that out because they’re everywhere right now.