jguissarri

Grubs.....help!

Jon
September 10, 2019

I’m raking up dead grass patches, prepping an overseed project when I noticed tons of grubs in the dirt. i thought I didn’t water enough, which is why I had random dead patches of grass but apparently the grubs have been having a feast on my grass roots. Is it too late to put down grub ex now? can I put down grub ex and seed at the same time? If I just seed, will the grubs damage the seedlings? any help is appreciated.

Comments (6)

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)

    'Tis the season. For grub hatch.

    And yes, September grubs are not going to respond to GrubEx. It's too late. The active ingredient is too weak, too slow, and won't perk down fast enough anyway.

    If you have more than 10 grubs per square foot, and it's definitely killing patches of lawn, then you have to do something. Ask me about the time 5,000 square feet of grass floated without roots and I counted 100+ grubs per square foot before nearly getting sick...

    You're going to need a stronger killer. Merit, or the like. Get thee to a big box store.

    One shot should take them out without any problems. Unfortunately, it's also going to take out a lot of helpful insects in the lawn, but you can't help that now.

    Next year, apply GrubEx in late April or early May. It's a much gentler insecticide that has a much more specific set of targets, and I think we just proved you need it.

    Set up Japanese beetle traps as well. What you trap won't lay eggs, and what does lay eggs in your lawn won't survive due to the GrubEx.

    Jon thanked morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
  • Jon

    Thanks Morpheus. I went to Lowe’s and got some Bayer Advanced 24 hour grub killer with Dylox. after some reading, I found out you can seed as soon as your lawn dries out after watering it in. I’ll definitely be getting on an annual Grub-EX regimen next spring.

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)

    That's perfect and will serve your needs very well. Normally I'd say it's late for seeding but, for patches, you should be able to get away with it just fine. Just mind those areas for weaknesses next summer.

    Jon thanked morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
  • Jon

    It’s later than I wanted but with two young kids at home my weekends have been tied up. I’m going to be overseeding everything hoping to patch and thicken some thinner spots. We’ve had some pretty warm October’s here in eastern Massachusetta the last few years so I’m hoping it’ll grow in enough.

  • nhdrummerboy

    I’m not a big fan of Japanese beetle traps. They tend to attract even more of them into your yard. After you kill off the ones you already have, as a preventative measure, I would try milky spore. You apply it several times over a year or two. It has worked pretty well for me. Also, if I find them on any of my plants, I pick them off and drop them in a container of soapy water. Dish soap works well. They drown in the water and for every one you take out, that’s hundreds of eggs that won’t be laid in your lawn. By using these two methods, I’ve been able to keep my beetle population down to almost nothing.



  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)

    I'm a huge fan of JB traps. Just make sure the lawn around them, for at least forty feet, is Death On A Stick to them.

    Over the course of 15 years, I've gone from bags-full per season to about a quarter bag per season grand total.

    Milky spore was a failure for me, but others seem to have good luck with it, so that may be worth a try. I use GrubEx exclusively at this point.

    I'm a titch more aggressive on plants and spray them before the season begins, rendering them toxic to beetles during the season. But they do destroy my roses and the beetles hit just about during the maximum period for those, and I won't have that.

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