Imagine yourself cleaning the faucet. Will you be able to get around it?

Or consider a wallmounted faucet.

If it's a undermount/drop in sink, some sink base cabinets have a tilt out. Sometimes if sink is too deep or put in too close to front of cabinet, there will be no room for tiltout. The tiltout will not function & be removed. Will still look the same in front of cabinet. If it's an apron farm sink, not applicable.

I wasn't planning on a tilt out. Sinks that I am exploring include Nantucket SR-PS-3220-16 that has an outside dimension of 32" x 20" or Create Goood Sink 5LS33L 33" Ledge with an outside dimension of 33.5" x 19.5". That's an install pic of the CGS. Why wouldn't they pull the sink forward to give the faucet more room?

rinq, faucet we fell in love with does not come in a wall mount option. Current faucet is a wall mount and have had nothing but problems with regard to pipes freezing. Yes, renovation will include full wall insulation (which is presently non existent) but I just want to move away from wall mounts all together.

Have you thought about an apron-front sink? Look at the Kohler Whitehaven for enameled cast iron, or for stainless steel, look at the ElKay Crosstown. I mention the Elkay because its apron has a thin profile (some stainless steel apron front sinks have aprons that are too thick). No need for a counter strip in front of the sink.

Wider sink (back to front dimension) = less countertop between

compared to a less wide sink

Suggest discussing sink placement with countertop fabricator beforehand to assist in purchasing decision.

I wouldn't want a tilt-out either (and don't have one) -- it pushes the sink too far back and it becomes an issue with your back, especially if you're tall (tall people have to reach farther down to reach the bottom of the sink than short people, it's the bending forward and leaning/reaching down that causes the issue).

Looking at the faucet you chose, you should be able to mount the handle so it's in front of the stem of the faucet -- it's a better location anyway as it reduces dripping water on your counters. I wish we had done that (if we ever have to replace the faucet or re-set it, I will be moving the handle!)

All you have to worry about now is the space the faucet stem needs, not the handle.

Shannon's suggestion of an apron-front is a good one...unless you don't like apron-front sinks.

Looking closer at the sink, it's only 17.5" front-to-back, not 19" or 20". The extra inch or so is the flange for installing the sink. You should have plenty of space.

24" deep cab - 17.5" sink - 1" in from the front of the cabinet = 5.5" behind the sink.

You shouldn't be mounting the sink any more than 1/2" to 1" from the front of the cabinet.

Counters overhang cabinets by approx 1.5", so 1" in from the front of the cabinet means 2.5" from the counter edge (the "rail").

The "rail" is the counter space b/w the edge of the counter to the front of the sink cutout...so 1" in from the cab front + 1.5" overhang = 2.5"

See Joseph's comments above.

I have a Kohler apron sink now that looks like their Whitehaven but bigger, want to move away from that look. Elkay Crosstown looks intriguing with thin profile but have been warned about belt buckles scratching up the stainless steel aprons. The Crosstown with the interchangeable apron looks fun but knowing me I would have to have every possible color just because! The final issue is drain would need to be either left (preferred) or center because DW is on the left. Looking to put in a hot/cold filtered water tap so having space underneath is key.

Actually it is the Kohler Dickinson that I have. Surprising that former homeowner would put such an expensive sink in this kitchen but cheap out on everything else! That was 17 years ago at this point. Happy to give it away.

Shannon_WI's idea about an apron sink was intriguing. Found Havens customs sinks. They have a patterned steel that is pretty tough and supposedly doesn't scratches as easily. I ordered a sample.