Do you have separate heaters in each room? If not, it seems as if having the thermostat in the hall makes the most sense.

Do you mean each room has its own heat? Or that all the bedrooms share a heating system that's separate from what heats the rest of the house?

Also, what kind of heat is it? Gas room heaters, electric baseboard, electric radiant, steam, hot water radiators, minisplit heat pumps, or ?

The three bedrooms on the second floor have a system of heaters that are all working at the same time controlled by one thermostat - the one that's currently in the hallway outside of the bedrooms. The hallway does not have a heater, that area stays warm because of heat that rises up from downstairs, where there is a separate system of heaters controlled by our second thermostat. But because of this, there is no feedback loop for the bedrooms, since we keep the room doors closed and rising temperatures in the rooms will never trigger the thermostat that's in the hallway to give the signal to stop supplying heat when the heat is on, which would cause them to overheat. (Like I said, the thermostat was inside one of the rooms before the landlord did renovations, which was a working system.) We have oil heat. The rooms have baseboards with pipes that I assume heat the air through water running through the pipes.

You would need a wireless thermostat with a compatible wireless sensor. The sensor could be installed in one of the bedrooms.

You could get the Honeywell TH8320R1003 thermostat, along with the Honeywell C7189R1004 wireless indoor sensor. They both will work on 4 AAA batteries. The question is how long will the batteries last. Both get good reviews on Amazon so it is worth a try.

OK, I see. Thanks. I suspect that what you need to make your fancy expensive thermostat with wireless remote sensor is something like this.

If you're into DIY and the "maker" world, a much less expensive (and also much less attractive) option would be one of the cheap and cheerful Chinese temperature controllers sold by the big auction and e-commerce sites. They have wired remote temperature sensors and simple hard relay contacts to control the heater. They're usually sold to home brewers and aquarium owners,

You could power a 12 volt temp controller with a generic DC plug-in power adapter, and connect your existing thermostat wires to the controller's hard-contact relay terminals. The total cost shouldn't exceed $25, unless you get extra fancy with the case you make for it.

Here's one example of probably thousands. Here's a shallower one that might look a little better stuck on the wall. Yet another. As you can see, you have many choices.

The trick will be finding one with a sensor wire that's long enough for your needs, or else has adjustable calibration, because adding more wire will affect the calibration. Whether it's worth the extra time and effort depends on how much your time is worth.

Another matter to keep in mind is that these controllers have no anticipator function. Most regular heating thermostats know that the heating system keeps on emitting heat for a while after it shuts off, so they shut it off a little early. These simple controllers don't, so the room temp may vary more when you use them.

Usual disclaimer: the links are for information and are not meant as endorsements. I have no financial interest in any of the products or vendors. I haven't tried the C wire adapter, but I'm using one of the cheap temperature controllers, not for house heating, and it's been working OK for a couple of years now. I don't think it's any of the ones linked above, however.

I don't think you can use the wireless remote sensor with that Honeywell thermostat if it's battery-powered. Check the manual. It says the stat needs the transformer return to use its "red link."

But you should be able to use it with the C wire adapter I posted above.

(Note: The offending posts appear to have been removed, but I'm going to leave this explanation here in case anybody saw the posts before they were deleted)

FYI - The DavidR after the initial few posts is a troll that is mimicing the real DavidR. If you look at the profiles, they are different.

This is an ongoing problem in several threads.

The 'kwhoughton' posts in this thread are also a mimic of another user and is being used to support the attack against DavidR.

Hopefully Houzz is aware of what's going on and is working on a fix. I've been flagging all of the posts, but I don't know how to send an actual message to Houzz admin.

Since you said "landlord", I assume this is a rental and you are limited in what you can do. Because, as you said, there is no feedback from the heat and the thermostat, (any head in the hallway comes from another heating system), then I think moving the thermostat to the hall was a mistake. If it's in one of the bedrooms, then at least there is feedback. You three just have to agree on a temperature acceptable to all. I am the landlord in a house with a similar situation, although I am also in the same house. Unlike the OP, there is only one thermostat for the whole house and it's downstairs. There doesn't seem to be any problem with having an agreeable setting. I just keep the setting the same all the time.

There doesn't seem to be any problem with having an agreeable setting.

The problem is a landlord who doesn't solve for 'comfort'. Comfort to the landlord is to avoid spending money (usually) .

In all fairness the landlord may not be aware of this situation... talk to them. The response you get is usually quite telling.

Comfort for the tenant is to not worry about nickels and dimes, they just want to be comfortable.

Nuisances --- when you are paying for something as in a place to live. I believe you 'expect' to be comfortable. I know I would.

Is anyone right or wrong in this situation? no. It's a matter of opinion and what comfort means to you. (It means different things to different people)

I am a landlord as well... there is no 'agreeable' setting at my rental. The tenants pay the heating and cooling bill. I give them pointers how to operate the system 'efficiently' to keep operational costs lower. At the end of the day it is their decision on the comfort level they want, they pay the utility bill. Run the system however you see fit. (If the system breaks, I fix it. All systems break, regardless of brand.)

There are no heating / cooling complaints at my rental. It works.

____________

What you can do... your best bet is to approach your landlord with the dilemma. Tell him there is no control for the rooms --- they are either too hot or too cold.

If he blows you off, makes excuses. I believe the writing is on the wall. The advantage in renting is once your lease is up you have the option of looking for a new place. Then keep things like this in the back of your mind when making decisions choosing where you wish to lay your head at night.

Landlords such as myself, know your plight first hand. I work to solve problems... I don't make excuses.

Solve problem is defined as: the solution does not create new problems. I don't treat symptoms or brush them under a rug.

Some clearly don't like my methods... and that's OK.

I service the Katy, Texas area.